- Thread starter
- #441
Ok, I’m planning on all week too, really looking forward to it, see you there
Build ‘68 M715, AKA "Smokey" (Can I post this Jeep on MUD?)
- Thread starter Rock40
- Start date
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Great updates. I love the color on the 40. What is it?
- Thread starter
- #443
Thx.
The 40 is Gillespie Coatings WW2 Semi Gloss Olive Drab. And clear coat over that. It’s held up remarkably well, painted it 12 years ago
- Thread starter
- #444
WAY overdue. This isn’t dead, I’m just swamped with so any other things. Picking away at it when I have the time and momentum
Got stainless lines from the cutting brakes plumbed all the way back to the rear axle
Got stainless lines from the cutting brakes plumbed all the way back to the rear axle
- Thread starter
- #445
All 3AN
Rear axle is out and off to powder coat. No way I can get paint up inside the truss
Got the 14B ring gear machined. If you’ve ever attempted this then you know it’s a complete ass pain
Rear axle is out and off to powder coat. No way I can get paint up inside the truss
Got the 14B ring gear machined. If you’ve ever attempted this then you know it’s a complete ass pain
Awesome! You are giving me ideas. I could use a few more levers on my floor.
- Thread starter
- #447
Oh gosh, between the cutting brakes and manual shift everything it’s a literal forest. Still have to fit a line lock in there somewhere too
Tell me about it! I’ve got three shifters and an e-brake handle on mine so far so what is another handle. It looks great! I can’t wait to see the finished product.
- Thread starter
- #449
This is what 4+ hours of machine work and your machinist friend telling you he’ll NEVER turn down a ring gear again looks like. OD is now 10.050” which is what the TMR shave kit calls for. Thank goodness we don’t have to shave the D60 ring gear also
- Thread starter
- #451
Ok, little more on this, life just gets in the way. Weather has turned tho so I’m back in the shop
Got the axle back from powder coat. They did a great job, just to be extra safe I washed the housing and tubes out multiple times to make sure no grit was left behind
Started with the pinion assembly. I’m using a crush sleeve eliminator kit since crush sleeves are
Really I just like the repeatability of shims when it comes to changing a yoke or pinion seal
Fresh pinion housing
All was well till I realized that the wrong Yukon rebuild kit got ordered. This is an older ‘80s housing and a ‘99+ kit has a larger OD lower pinion bearing.
THANK YOU DARRIN at Randys Ring and Pinion in Everett. After driving in and learning that walk up sales are essentially dead, Darrin came out, listened to my sob story and exchanged the bearing for the correct one.
Came home and started the install after pressing in the new outer races. It became an all day project. Without a baseline, (old crush sleeve got chucked long ago) I started with a fairly thick shim pack to avoid crushing a bearing and stepped it down from there. It was press on, press off on the upper pinion bearing probably a dozen times
On…..
Off…. And in the TOYOTA theme, that’s an old FJ40 transfer case idler shaft I’m using
Got the axle back from powder coat. They did a great job, just to be extra safe I washed the housing and tubes out multiple times to make sure no grit was left behind
Started with the pinion assembly. I’m using a crush sleeve eliminator kit since crush sleeves are
Really I just like the repeatability of shims when it comes to changing a yoke or pinion sealFresh pinion housing
All was well till I realized that the wrong Yukon rebuild kit got ordered. This is an older ‘80s housing and a ‘99+ kit has a larger OD lower pinion bearing.
THANK YOU DARRIN at Randys Ring and Pinion in Everett. After driving in and learning that walk up sales are essentially dead, Darrin came out, listened to my sob story and exchanged the bearing for the correct one.
Came home and started the install after pressing in the new outer races. It became an all day project. Without a baseline, (old crush sleeve got chucked long ago) I started with a fairly thick shim pack to avoid crushing a bearing and stepped it down from there. It was press on, press off on the upper pinion bearing probably a dozen times
On…..
Off…. And in the TOYOTA theme, that’s an old FJ40 transfer case idler shaft I’m using
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- Thread starter
- #452
Finally got the shims bracketed down and settled on 0.023” I forget who did the eliminator kit but some thinner shims would have been great, there was nothing thinner than 0.01”
Rolling resistance without the seal installed was 25 in/lbs and the spec calls for 20-35 in/lbs with the seal installed
This is a 1410 yoke from Dirty Hooker Diesel (thx Mark) The stock Spicer 1350 looks frankly pathetic next to it
The aftermarket yoke has a second seal which presses lightly against the outer rubber lip of the factory seal. With BOTH installed, bearing preload was 33-34 in/lbs which puts me right at the upper spec. However, I’m assuming that a lot of that extra resistance is on account of the double seal. With that in mind, the pinion bearings shouldn’t be overload and they shouldn’t overheat
With the pinion guard mocked up, there’s a whopping 0.005” of clearance, will like need to grind the guard JUST a touch
And ready to be installed back in the housing now. I’ll start with the factory 0.017” shim and go from there
Rolling resistance without the seal installed was 25 in/lbs and the spec calls for 20-35 in/lbs with the seal installed
This is a 1410 yoke from Dirty Hooker Diesel (thx Mark) The stock Spicer 1350 looks frankly pathetic next to it
The aftermarket yoke has a second seal which presses lightly against the outer rubber lip of the factory seal. With BOTH installed, bearing preload was 33-34 in/lbs which puts me right at the upper spec. However, I’m assuming that a lot of that extra resistance is on account of the double seal. With that in mind, the pinion bearings shouldn’t be overload and they shouldn’t overheat
With the pinion guard mocked up, there’s a whopping 0.005” of clearance, will like need to grind the guard JUST a touch
And ready to be installed back in the housing now. I’ll start with the factory 0.017” shim and go from there
- Thread starter
- #454
They are allegedly on the way, Ouverson units, likely in some space age alloy
23 pages over a few hours…and I get to experience the end of the story real time. I’ve enjoyed the build!They are allegedly on the way, Ouverson units, likely in some space age alloy
- Thread starter
- #456
Thank you, still wrenching away on the 14B today, unfortunately we have the incorrect “thin” ring gear to use with the ARB so some parts swapping has to occur
- Thread starter
- #457
So with the incorrect ring and pinion set, the 14B assembly is on hold for now
Tackled the steering shaft routing instead. Fabbed up a support bearing mount out of some scrap
Idealy only wanted to run a single collapsible shaft. However there was zero chance of getting it around both the exhaust manifold and the bump stop can. Without the can, it probably would have fit
Once the support was in, measured and cut the collapsible shaft down a bit, added some stainless u-joints and cut a super short 1” DD shaft
Snug, and everything clears. I’ve seen FAR worse steering shaft angles too, done with that!
Tackled the steering shaft routing instead. Fabbed up a support bearing mount out of some scrap
Idealy only wanted to run a single collapsible shaft. However there was zero chance of getting it around both the exhaust manifold and the bump stop can. Without the can, it probably would have fit
Once the support was in, measured and cut the collapsible shaft down a bit, added some stainless u-joints and cut a super short 1” DD shaft
Snug, and everything clears. I’ve seen FAR worse steering shaft angles too, done with that!
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- Thread starter
- #458
Ok, this is the ongoing saga of the 14B from hell
So we know now that you can’t use a “thin” ring gear with the ARB, you have to use the “thick” cut ring gear. Of course recognizing that required having the pinion preload set correctly and the pinion support installed in the 14B housing. Popped the ring gear and carrier in then realized there was ZERO chance of ever getting the gears to zero lash for initial setup
We ordered a pre ground/machined ring gear and matched pinion from ECGS. BTW, if you are doing a shaved 14B this is the way to do it since machining the through hardened ring gear is a royal pain
Took everything apart and put it all back together once again shimming the pinion for the correct bearing preload. I can say this: if I had attempted this install with the standard 14B crush sleeve on the pinion I’d probably be on the 27th one by now. Go buy the solid shim kit, it’s well worth it
This was the initial gear pattern at 6 thousand backlash and a 17 thousand shim (factory thickness for this housing) on the pinion.
Pretty bad. Although it’s centered ok top to bottom, the pattern is much to far towards the toe on the coast side and way up on the heel on the drive side
After about 6 adjustments, I settled on removing the pinion shim from the housing completely. Backlash is at 3-4 thousandths which is just within spec on the tight side of things
IMO the drive side looks about perfect and the coast side is slightly towards the toe.
Oh and did I mention the ARB was contacting one of the internal ribs in the 14B housing? Had to grind that down for clearance
So we know now that you can’t use a “thin” ring gear with the ARB, you have to use the “thick” cut ring gear. Of course recognizing that required having the pinion preload set correctly and the pinion support installed in the 14B housing. Popped the ring gear and carrier in then realized there was ZERO chance of ever getting the gears to zero lash for initial setup
We ordered a pre ground/machined ring gear and matched pinion from ECGS. BTW, if you are doing a shaved 14B this is the way to do it since machining the through hardened ring gear is a royal pain
Took everything apart and put it all back together once again shimming the pinion for the correct bearing preload. I can say this: if I had attempted this install with the standard 14B crush sleeve on the pinion I’d probably be on the 27th one by now. Go buy the solid shim kit, it’s well worth it
This was the initial gear pattern at 6 thousand backlash and a 17 thousand shim (factory thickness for this housing) on the pinion.
Pretty bad. Although it’s centered ok top to bottom, the pattern is much to far towards the toe on the coast side and way up on the heel on the drive side
After about 6 adjustments, I settled on removing the pinion shim from the housing completely. Backlash is at 3-4 thousandths which is just within spec on the tight side of things
IMO the drive side looks about perfect and the coast side is slightly towards the toe.
Oh and did I mention the ARB was contacting one of the internal ribs in the 14B housing? Had to grind that down for clearance
- Thread starter
- #459
During all this, the Ouversion axle shafts DID arrive, just without caps. I’m told those will be available in January sometime
Working on the wheel spacers and 14B hubs now. Completely stripped everything, re-blasted it then shot it with Steel-It. First time using the product but it seems to be VERY high quality. Black dried an almost dark gun metal gray which I like.
Working on the wheel spacers and 14B hubs now. Completely stripped everything, re-blasted it then shot it with Steel-It. First time using the product but it seems to be VERY high quality. Black dried an almost dark gun metal gray which I like.
- Thread starter
- #460
Ended up coating all the 14B hub stuff and spacers in the Steel It. Turned out well and that product dries HARD. Actually dropped a hub on the concrete floor and it barely scuffed the paint in one small spot.
Gotta love a media blaster with a 125CFM compressor pushing it Cleaned up a spare set of 14B hubs that had been out in the barn for years
Gotta love a media blaster with a 125CFM compressor pushing it
Cleaned up a spare set of 14B hubs that had been out in the barn for years