64 FJ45 having problems getting the truck to move forward (1 Viewer)

[FJ40 MATT]

Been trying to get my 64 FJ45 on the road the past week and installed a new clutch master cylinder and new clutch slave cylinder. The truck has a 287 engine with a new Chevy clutch slave cylinder with a Toyota 3 speed transmission behind it. I installed a new clutch master cylinder while I was waiting for the rebuilt kit to come in for the original slave. It’s odd I can drive the truck in reverse no problem but when I go to put the truck in first gear and the let the clutch out the truck won’t go forward and stalls out as if the clutch Or clutch fork aren’t fulling engaging or disengaging. The slave cylinder seems to be a direct replacement of the the one I had on the truck but I had to re adjust the rod all the way out bc it was to hard to get the bolts lined up. The slave cylinder rod is really tight up again the clutch fork so not sure if I would have room to adjust it out. Wasn’t sure if it’s bc I have a new clutch master cylinder on there instead of the Tin cup master cylinder. Possibly doesn’t get the same amount of throw as the other. The truck will not roll in neutral either. If anyone has dealt with similar issues or has any suggestions I would really appreciate it.

 

[pjohnson]

The truck will not roll in neutral either

Does it roll in neutral with the clutch depressed?
This sounds like the issue may be in the transmission.

 

[FJ40 MATT]

Does it roll in neutral with the clutch depressed?
This sounds like the issue may be in the transmission.

No it doesn’t roll in neutral with the clutch depressed. It’s really odd i got it to drive forward and revere last night for twenty minutes last night and even this morning and then it suddenly stops being able to go forward anymore or roll in neutral. Going to replace the rubber clutch line today not sure if that is acting as a check valve and not allowing the clutch to release fully

 

[middlecalf]

If the tranny is in neutral and it doesn‘t roll the clutch isn’t the problem. Somewhere else in the drivetrain is the hangup.

Checked the e-brake to make sure it’s disengaged?

 

[peesalot]

Sounds like e-brake is grabbing or there is a problem in trans, again sounds like an e-brake adjust, easy to do.

 

[FJ40 MATT]

If the tranny is in neutral and it doesn‘t roll the clutch isn’t the problem. Somewhere else in the drivetrain is the hangup.

Checked the e-brake to make sure it’s disengaged?

Thanks just ate lunch and going to have a friend stop by to give me a hand.

 

[FJ40 MATT]

If the tranny is in neutral and it doesn‘t roll the clutch isn’t the problem. Somewhere else in the drivetrain is the hangup.

Checked the e-brake to make sure it’s disengaged?

Going to check if the gear oil is low in the transmission. If it is would the truck not be able to shift or would it just be hard to shift in and out of 1st gear

 

[asu4runner]

agreed, sounds like binding elsewhere. have you tried putting it in low range and moving it around? side note, are you the same matt selling all your spare parts on Fb right now lol

 

[FJ40 MATT]

agreed, sounds like binding elsewhere. have you tried putting it in low range and moving it around? side note, are you the same matt selling all your spare parts on Fb right now lol

I haven’t was going to try that. Yes that’s me

 

[FJ40 MATT]

Sounds like e-brake is grabbing or there is a problem in trans, again sounds like an e-brake adjust, easy to do.

Would the truck still be able to go in reverse without any issues or resistance like it does now. I can go in reverse no problem but can’t go forward or roll it neutral

 

[peesalot]

Do not try Low range, if it is the e-brake it will shear the 4 mount bolts off the housing. Get a 10mm end wrench slide under the truck, first search e-brake adjustment on here so you know which way to turn the adjuster, it is at the bottom of e-brake backing plate, it points at the tcase. There may be an issue with your shifter of trans not disengaging the reverse idler. try e-brake adjust first, if that isnt it you may be opening the trans. IIRC there was a thread years ago about the shifter getting stuck between gears, not sure if your symptoms identify that as a cause, a call to Georg at Valley Hybrids / Cruiser Brothers would be helpful, he knows the cruiser trans well.

 

[FJ40 MATT]

Do not try Low range, if it is the e-brake it will shear the 4 mount bolts off the housing. Get a 10mm end wrench slide under the truck, first search e-brake adjustment on here so you know which way to turn the adjuster, it is at the bottom of e-brake backing plate, it points at the tcase. There may be an issue with your shifter of trans not disengaging the reverse idler. try e-brake adjust first, if that isnt it you may be opening the trans. IIRC there was a thread years ago about the shifter getting stuck between gears, not sure if your symptoms identify that as a cause, a call to Georg at Valley Hybrids / Cruiser Brothers would be helpful, he knows the cruiser trans well.

Thank you I just sprayed some pb blaster down the parking brake cable and pulled the handle in and out and think the cable released. I’m now able to drive the truck forward. Going to take the parking brake apart this week anyway since the cable has seen better days

 

[FJ40 MATT]

I tried to loosen the adjustment bolt but it wouldn’t budge much either direction

 

[rghouse]

Whats the history? did it drive before? when and with what setup? double check everything that was changed.

Also, you may try blocking it up and turning wheels by hand to see what the wheels do when you turn them manually. After I bled my brakes I couldnt figure out why mine wouldnt roll by hand anymore in neutral, they needed adjustment. Also, axles do funky things sometimes (year, make model) as far as rotation of wheels in different gears, etc. maybe diffs are having issues. Dont rule out T-case maybe 4x is stuck in a gear

Are you sure gears engaging correctly? I had my tranny top plate off and you can see the gears pretty good and what happens when you shift through them. This is on 4sp, not sure if it applies here. But, it took 10 minutes to take the top cover off.

 

[peesalot]

If the adjuster is froze it isnt all that hard to take the drum off and fix, just drain the tcase first as if it is filled properly, oil will come out when you pull the drum off unless you drain it first, or be prepared to catch the oil that runs out when drum is pulled. It runs down the tcase so a big catch pan and some rags/paper towels, dont forget to refill tcase !!!!

 

[FJ40 MATT]

If the adjuster is froze it isnt all that hard to take the drum off and fix, just drain the tcase first as if it is filled properly, oil will come out when you pull the drum off unless you drain it first, or be prepared to catch the oil that runs out when drum is pulled. It runs down the tcase so a big catch pan and some rags/paper towels, dont forget to refill tcase !!!!

Thank you I’m going to order a new cable today and take the parking brake drum off this week. Thanks for the reminder to drain the Tcase, I was going to do it with the transmission as well just so I knew I had new fluid in both. Truck has been going forward and reverse again no problem so guess the parking brake was just getting stuck. I’m going to try to turn the adjuster clockwise a couple times to loosen the parking brake more so it doesn’t get stuck again

 

[peesalot]

just 1 click, a couple will have it sloppy.

 

[peesalot]

FWIW, I wouldnt change that cable unless I absolutely had to.

 

[B y r o n]

Have you ever had the shift lever out? If the lever was placed back without the 1st/reverse side and the 2nd/3rd selector centered it may be possible that forward movement would be prevented. Have you tried to put it in neutral and then let out the clutch to see if it moves forward. You might have to slip the clutch more since it may be locked into 2nd or 3rd.

 

[Downey]

Moving on from a parking brake issue, your next issue may be clutch travel (i.e.full engagement/full disengagement). Assuming you have a new "matching" clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, If you are using a "Stock" Chevy 11" clutch, your Toyota hydraulics don't provide enough travel to either fully engage the Chevy clutch, or fully disengage the Chevy clutch- - -so guys running the "stock" Chevy clutches are forced to either adjust their slave cylinder push rod so that (a) the throw out bearing is always riding on the fingers of the pressure plate so that they do get full disengagement, or (b) the throw out bearing is backed off of the pressure plate fingers, they never get "full"disengagement, so they drag the shift lever through the gears- - -and the amazing thing to is guys doing this claim they have no issues running the stock Chevy clutch ???.
Stock Chevy clutch requires .500" of travel at the throw out bearing to disengage
Stock Toyota hydraulics (which everybody uses) produces .450" of travel at the throw out bearing
LUK clutch that many use requires only .420" of travel at the throw out bear to disengage
Downey "Chevota Specific" clutches require only .375" of travel at the throw out bearing to disengage