60 Series Axle swap with the Trail Tailor Coil Conversion

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So I cant really remember if i torqued the adjuster retainer clip bolt or not yesterday. My 1 year old daughter was getting a little crazy in the front yard while i was doing this air line, so i may have forgotten to torque it. Diffs coming back out to check. Awesome
 
So I cant really remember if i torqued the adjuster retainer clip bolt or not yesterday. My 1 year old daughter was getting a little crazy in the front yard while i was doing this air line, so i may have forgotten to torque it. Diffs coming back out to check. Awesome
That sucks
 
i literally thought about it when i posted that photo last night. I was like i cant recall if i torqued that or not. What i can recall is my daughter picking up large landscaping stones over her head haha
When I build diffs I use paint to mark any bolt that I tourqe down so I know I've done it even doing that I'll go back over and recheck tourqe.
 
When I build diffs I use paint to mark any bolt that I tourqe down so I know I've done it even doing that I'll go back over and recheck tourqe.
If there is ever a next time. I’m doing that. Is there like an oil resistant paint you use? I just R&Red the diff. Bolt was tight -_-

Oh well. Nice to have peace of mind
 
I swear this is probably the worst way to do this but ive pulled the t case off this thing so many times by now that i can do it this way by memory. Even most of the torque specs.

Also the ugly crossmember and mounts are temporary. Dont judge

uRHEVYSh.jpg
 
Ok Rear locker works now. Tcase still whiney.

The overall win is that i installed the rubber Rear coil spring isolator things from toyota and all of my rear end squeaking is now gone. Heck yes.


Since my amazon pod lights keep dying on my knuckles in the first day, i decided to get a little fancy and went with the new morimoto banger series. My truck isnt socal enough to rock Baha Designs, and these are brighter anyways. Figured the bulbs in my holley headlights work great and are morimoto so these should be great too

KPsCl9Rh.jpg
 
Ok Rear locker works now. Tcase still whiney.

The overall win is that i installed the rubber Rear coil spring isolator things from toyota and all of my rear end squeaking is now gone. Heck yes.


Since my amazon pod lights keep dying on my knuckles in the first day, i decided to get a little fancy and went with the new morimoto banger series. My truck isnt socal enough to rock Baha Designs, and these are brighter anyways. Figured the bulbs in my holley headlights work great and are morimoto so these should be great too

KPsCl9Rh.jpg
Second Amazon pair was a dud too huh?
 
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Second Amazon pair was a dud too huh?
Yeah I couldn’t keep them working. They lasted longer than the first but one of them had loose internal wiring -_-
After 16 splitcases behind LS3... THEY ALL WHINE! No matter what we do.

Only way to stop the whine................ HF2A with part time kit.

Jason
TT

Doesn’t whine on and off throttle? Like a high pitched whine that increases and decreases in pitch with speed?

HF2A with a part time kit sounds interesting. Have you done one of those on your builds? At this point I’m trying it all haha

Ok ok you were 1000% right on the rubber pads. I even took the plastic out and it’s not squeaking 😂 it was all the rubber pads
 
Yeah I couldn’t keep them working. They lasted longer than the first but one of them had loose internal wiring -_-


Doesn’t whine on and off throttle? Like a high pitched whine that increases and decreases in pitch with speed?

HF2A with a part time kit sounds interesting. Have you done one of those on your builds? At this point I’m trying it all haha

Ok ok you were 1000% right on the rubber pads. I even took the plastic out and it’s not squeaking 😂 it was all the rubber pads
Damn, sounds like a quality control issue that needs to be resolved with them. I wonder how bad the internal solder joints are on them too if the wiring is slipping past their QA and making it out the door.

As far as your transfer case whine, it makes sense. Partial throttle where the load on the gears is less than a coast or at throttle (in my head I refer to it as "neutral throttle") can make the gear mesh be barely in contact in the case. Mine makes a metallic growling noise above 30 MPH in 4 Hi when I'm at tha tneutral throttle point. If I give it a little gas or pop the clutch in and coast, it goes away completely. It was overall reduced a little bit by switching to AMSOIL. Their Manual Transmission Fluid is good for both GL4 and GL5 applications so I can use it in both my H55F and the tcase, which is good because my tcase slowly leaks into the tranny. This is after using both Royal Purple and Redline.

I suspect I'd been hearing that same gear mesh from the front diff too, but I haven't put it in 4 Hi since finally changing its fluid out for the AMSOIL Severe Gear that i run in the rear diff. Probably won't until the snow flies again next winter 😂
 
Damn, sounds like a quality control issue that needs to be resolved with them. I wonder how bad the internal solder joints are on them too if the wiring is slipping past their QA and making it out the door.

As far as your transfer case whine, it makes sense. Partial throttle where the load on the gears is less than a coast or at throttle (in my head I refer to it as "neutral throttle") can make the gear mesh be barely in contact in the case. Mine makes a metallic growling noise above 30 MPH in 4 Hi when I'm at tha tneutral throttle point. If I give it a little gas or pop the clutch in and coast, it goes away completely. It was overall reduced a little bit by switching to AMSOIL. Their Manual Transmission Fluid is good for both GL4 and GL5 applications so I can use it in both my H55F and the tcase, which is good because my tcase slowly leaks into the tranny. This is after using both Royal Purple and Redline.

I suspect I'd been hearing that same gear mesh from the front diff too, but I haven't put it in 4 Hi since finally changing its fluid out for the AMSOIL Severe Gear that i run in the rear diff. Probably won't until the snow flies again next winter 😂
Dude there’s another thread we were posting about but @Dubs2017 and I have been going through it with the transfer cases trying to get them to quiet down. Mine makes a weird kinda scratching noise under throttle and whines like crazy over 30mph. I’m about to be at a point to call it a loss and put a chain drive trans from a blazer on my 4l60. At least that one won’t be so loud
 
Yeah I couldn’t keep them working. They lasted longer than the first but one of them had loose internal wiring -_-


Doesn’t whine on and off throttle? Like a high pitched whine that increases and decreases in pitch with speed?

HF2A with a part time kit sounds interesting. Have you done one of those on your builds? At this point I’m trying it all haha

Ok ok you were 1000% right on the rubber pads. I even took the plastic out and it’s not squeaking 😂 it was all the rubber pads

DINGO has a HF2A and quiet as can be in comparison. Stronger case all around IMO. If Georg ever finishes up his manual t-case lock conversion; this will be the only tcase I'll put behind a LS.

I have a standalone t-case actuator harness on mine as well. Simplifies the install/operation. Rocker switch controls it.

Jason
TT
 
DINGO has a HF2A and quiet as can be in comparison. Stronger case all around IMO. If Georg ever finishes up his manual t-case lock conversion; this will be the only tcase I'll put behind a LS.

I have a standalone t-case actuator harness on mine as well. Simplifies the install/operation. Rocker switch controls it.

Jason
TT
This would definitely be interesting to see. Be great to be able to go that route by the time I need to pull all that apart to rebuild my H55F. The 1/3 synchro has been notchy for a couple years now but never gotten any worse, as long as I'm careful, so I've been trying to push it out as long as possible.
 

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