60 Series Axle swap with the Trail Tailor Coil Conversion
- Thread starter dbbowen
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Best thing I ever did was install a mini split in my shopjust watching the paint dry now. Since its winter and this is rustoleum this will probably be dry in a week
- Thread starter
- #103
Did you use a Mr cool?
Senville Leto, since I have a vac pump and didn’t want to loop the refrigerant lines
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
Looks great! Any pics of before primer that show how far you took the sanding from printed form? I just got one of these bezels at Christmas time.
THanks
THanks
- Thread starter
- #107
Thanks man! I think this one is version 2.0 but about here. Be careful using a powered sander because its really easy to take off too much. I generally use 80, 120,220, and 320 grit on the whole thing and then do a bunch of good coats of the fill primer and then sand the flats on the fill primer very lightly with some 320 or 400 grit then paint.
go super light with the fill primer. You want a bunch of light coats. If you go too thick it will bubble up or crack.
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- Thread starter
- #108
Just closing the loop on this post. I posted this in the 60 porn section but this is the wiring for all of the switches. Once i sand, bondo, and paint the new bezel it should just be a little bit of wiring to integrate them into my 60 series dash harnes.
Figuring this kind of stuff is really fun imo. Similar setup with my other dash switches and cruise control. Kinda have make the switch work for the 60 series circuits.
I had an extra 60 series defrost switch so the wiring for that one is already done. It just plugs in and is done. The 4runner wiper switch is just depinning and repinning 5 wires, and the rear heat is 2 wires and reversing the wires on the rear squirter in the quarter panel. The front fog light will need a relay to power the front axle lights from cruiser cult.
To further close the loop on this... all of these wiring diagrams work... but for the rear heater switch youll need a relay. Pin 4 on the switch sends 12v+ when the switch is "off" then sends ground when the switch is pressed on. The 12v+ into the switch on pin 2 runs through a diode and a LED and directly into pin 4 going out of the switch. Unfortunately, youve got to use a 5 pin relay. Let 87a be the 12v+ resting position and then 87 be the ground sent to the rear heater blower motor. Youll just terminate 87a so it sends power to nothing while the switch is "off." The blower motor gets its power from a different relay in the fj60 body harness, so you wont have to worry about overloading the switch
Heres how to wire the relay.
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- Thread starter
- #109
All done, there is like barely enough room in the dash for these switches and the wiring. Need to get the rear glass fixed on my truck. Theres a few breaks in the circuit across the glass i think, so the light doesnt light up for the defroster. This side quest is largely done. I just need to wire one more relay for the axle mounted lights and thats it.
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Dude this looks so clean. Nice job.
- Thread starter
- #111
Thanks man! i think im finally done fiddling with the dash and stuff now haha
Uh oh
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- #114
I need to get a pressure tester on it and see if it’s just one leak or multiple. I’m thinking electrolysis. If it is, there’s no fixing it unfortunately. It’s just over 2 yrs old
Did you do any voltage checking? I know the RD I just got came with a bunch of checks for electrolysis
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
What radiator?
- Thread starter
- #117
Just checked. Measured 0 with key off. Truck on .2-.3 volts. Never went above .3
FSR. They’re being pretty cool about it but it’s been 2 years since I bought it so I’m outside of warranty. Warranty doesn’t cover electrolysis anyways.
It seems to be the bars where they go into the tanks on the side. Plus there’s corrosion here’s the two leaks. They’re up high so it just kinda leaks until the level is below that I guess
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- #120
This ground and this bolt are the reason my radiator had .3 volts in the water. This is the spot where my Frame to body to battery ground attaches to the body. Engine block to frame is still good. Whats weird is that my radiator itself was perfectly grounded when i put one lead to the rad and one lead to 12v.
I cleaned the hole, sanded off the rust and exposed more bare metal, used a newer bolt and globbed it all with dialectric grease... and what do you know? 0 volts in the water.
normal acceptable voltage in the water is 0-0.3 volts. My water was reading at 0.2-0.3 volts with the truck running. 0.3 volts is enough to kill your $1,500 radiator... no matter what the internet says. $800 later and i have a replacement being made.
I cleaned the hole, sanded off the rust and exposed more bare metal, used a newer bolt and globbed it all with dialectric grease... and what do you know? 0 volts in the water.
normal acceptable voltage in the water is 0-0.3 volts. My water was reading at 0.2-0.3 volts with the truck running. 0.3 volts is enough to kill your $1,500 radiator... no matter what the internet says. $800 later and i have a replacement being made.
