60 Power steering particulars (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Ry24000

Ry24000

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 4, 2020
Threads
23
Messages
293
Location
Gorge
Hello everyone. I am getting ready to do a ton of stuff on my Pig. I am going to start on the power steering. I believe I have most of the big ticket stuff figured most thread I have read hot those.(frame sleeves, TRE adaption, shock mount, pump mount hardware ect.) It's the details I am concerned about.
1. My PS gear didn't come with a flange to connect the shaft. Will I need one or do I use the one off of the existing gear?
2. Hoses custom made or can I use FJ60 hoses made to fit?
3. Any details you guys ran into that slowed the process.

Thanks
 
www.borgeson.com

Categories

Welcome to our on-line store and product catalog. You can search for Borgeson products for your vehicle by year, make and model below or search for all products using the categories list. To clear vehicle selection and view all products just click on the change vehicle button.
www.borgeson.com www.borgeson.com


Here's a good company with most of what you'll need.
 
Here also is the Borgeson catalog


If you go with what they call the “Double D Shaft” remember that the inner (solid) shaft is 3/4”, and the outer (hollow) shaft is 1”.
PN#450024 for the 24”

For the upper, I went with PN#115225
which is 1” DD X 11/16” diameter X 36 spline (stainless steel).
I have a Scout II steering box, so can’t help with what the lower joint for you would be.
 
I called Borgeson today and got some information. Hunter at Borgeson told me to count the splines and measure Dia. on the Steer column output as well as the gear input. I came up with 36 on each and .687 shaft diameter. Sound familiar? He wanted a measurement between these points too. I don't know yet so, on Hunter's and RUSH55's suggestions I went with 24".
These are the part numbers I am going with.
115225 for stainless or 015225 mild steel joint column side
114925 SS or 014925 mild gear side joint
450024 for a DD shaft between the two joints.
Now For the hydraulic lines? Should I get some used 60 stuff or what did you guys do?
Thanks
 
Those are same two joints I have on mine, in stainless steel.

Ry24000 said:
He wanted a measurement between these points too. I don't know yet so, on Hunter's and RUSH55's suggestions I went with 24".
Click to expand...
Just make sure you get a shaft long enough, so you can cut to fit once you mount the box.
 
scrapdaddy said:
Something else I was thinking about, while you're plumbing the steering is a cooler. If you're making new lines might as well get a good power steering cooler in the mix.
Click to expand...
I saw a cooler in front of your radiator in your build thread. Your pump is on the passenger side and plumbed around the radiator. I like that design. What cooler would that be?
I was looking into bending my own hard lines and using NAPA to build some soft lines. I would like to check out a 60 to see how they did it. My engine is an '86, so I have the brackets and pump, the stock 60 stuff might work.
 
Ry24000 said:
I called Borgeson today and got some information. Hunter at Borgeson told me to count the splines and measure Dia. on the Steer column output as well as the gear input. I came up with 36 on each and .687 shaft diameter. Sound familiar? He wanted a measurement between these points too. I don't know yet so, on Hunter's and RUSH55's suggestions I went with 24".
These are the part numbers I am going with.
115225 for stainless or 015225 mild steel joint column side
114925 SS or 014925 mild gear side joint
450024 for a DD shaft between the two joints.
Now For the hydraulic lines? Should I get some used 60 stuff or what did you guys do?
Thanks
Click to expand...
Keep in mind you can do all this w/ factory 60 joints and shaft...
 
Ok, I got my Borgeson stuff today, the old parts are removed, and its time to mock this up and do some drilling/welding. Question on positioning. I am guessing that I want to keep the Pitman arm out in front of the tie rod through the entire rotation. I seen some pictures that show the gear slightly behind the frame access hole. I was going to use a Mag drill from work to make sure my sleeve holes are perpendicular/straight through to the frame, but I forgot to bring it home. I may just spend the rest of my time this weekend drilling out the 9 bolts I broke removing the body panels. I am not going to use a fish plate on the side of the frame. I have heard of frame cracking and such and I think I know why. Look at all the holes in the frame in that location after removal of the old gear/tower. What is that one inch hole anyway? Think I'll weld all those in. The F250 shock tower seems to be the norm for this conversion. Think I'll wait to see if a hoop will work before I get one comming.
 
Boy things are really tight where I want to mount that box. The engine mount on the back side is a pain. A hoop shock mount would be cool looking but it's tight in there without hacking a bunch of inner fender or possible tire interference. I did see a thread where Pighead has a cool shock setup. Anyone have a part number on the F250 shock tower?
 
Ok I'm getting close on my power steering. It's been a long process. Haven't had much time to work on it and ran into some snags in the process of rebuilding the pump and the gear. I was told that rebuilding the pump might be a waist of time due to the brass bushings v. a bearing pump. Oh well!Those white nylon seals in the gear piston got under my skin a few times!:bang: Each one I destroyed cost me a week. I have a few extras now just in case.

While I was waiting for parts to arrive I decided to replace the coolant and hoses. I noticed that I have the dreaded timing cover oil leak, so I started that brake down. While your in there! I did some reading here on mud and I think I have that one under control. Very particular set up with the screws in the proper order and the over tightening of the oiler ect.

One thing I thought I had under control was the way I would integrate the 60 components to the 55. I decided to use a 60 drag link and mate it to the 55 "Relay Rod". I had a friend machine a coupler that I used to weld the two together. The problem being that the ends are both left threaded. No problem! I'll use the other end of the 55's relay rod and now my new drag link will be fine! Yeah right. The tapered shaft on the right hand thread 55 end is shorter than the left thread end. The castle nut will not thread on enough to expose the cotter pin hole. Thus exposing yet another hole in my plan. I wonder if there is a simple solution? Is there a end that will fit? Maybe something from another LC model?
This is a "temporary" set up as I will replace the axle with a 60 axle someday. Thought about putting a bead on that castle nut:rolleyes:
IMG_20241006_184601646_HDR.jpg
IMG_20240914_183856882_HDR.jpg
 
With it being a temp. axle for a short while and no other solutions. without redoing everything, then I'd be inclined to weld a bead on it. Keeping an eye on it would be wise.
 
If you’ve cut the upper part of the drag link to hook up to the 60 pitman arm, and you have the lower end of a 55 drag link to connect to a 55 tie rod, I’m not really seeing what the problem is.
I did the same thing welding the upper side of a Jeep Cherokee drag link to the lower end of a 55 drag link and never had a problem.

IMG_4233.jpeg


IMG_4234.jpeg


Are you not using the rod end specific to the drag link?
 
Last edited:
RUSH55 said:
If you’ve cut the upper part of the drag link to hook up to the 60 pitman arm, and you have the lower end of a 55 drag link to connect to a 55 tie rod, I’m not really seeing what the problem is.
I did the same thing welding the upper side of a Jeep Cherokee drag link to the lower end of a 55 drag link and never had a problem.


Are you not using the rod end specific to the drag link?
Click to expand...
The castle nut won't thread onto the tie rod end enough to get a cotter pin through. I had to use the center arm side of the relay rod with the 60 drag link because the tie rod end side of the 55 and the 60 end are both left hand thread. The 55's tie rod end(left hand thread) has a longer tapered shaft. See the picture. Hope that makes sense.
Gotta have the shaft with both right and left for adjustment.
I'ma gonna weld it
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Dudleyfj40
FAQ 77 power steering wanted.
Replies
16
Views
2K
PabloCruise
PabloCruise
LAMBCRUSHER
FJ55 STEERING LINK INFO
Replies
4
Views
658
PabloCruise
PabloCruise
Pigeaten
Steering box
Replies
3
Views
648
timmyisinthewell
T
3
For Sale OEM power steering box
Replies
4
Views
487
Rix 45
Rix 45

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 3 (members: 0, guests: 3)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom