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I’ve heard the same for an OEM thermostat
60 Overheating from carb not being tuned right? (SOLVED) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DenaliJames
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Same here. New Aisin that doesn't work. Cooling is fine running at <60 but 65-70 for longer time and the temps rise and hold around 210F. I'm going to split the fan clutch and add new fluid.
Needing choke to run when warm is a classic sign of the fuel cut-off solenoid not working. Easy to check, just listen for it to click when ignition is turned on.
Thermostat can be checked in the kitchen. Put the thermostat in a pot of water, put the pot on the stove and heat it up.watch for the thermostat to open.
Thermostat can be checked in the kitchen. Put the thermostat in a pot of water, put the pot on the stove and heat it up.watch for the thermostat to open.
Agree with pighead. Sounds like Idle cut-off has not been working since before doing all this work. Should have 12 volts at the idle solenoid with key (ign) on. If 12 votls present but still will not idle without the choke I would suspect a bad solenoid. The mixture screws will also have almost no response when adjusting if the idle circuit is not working. The choke being partially closed is also bringing the idle speed up enough to pull fuel from the primary side of the carb.
I was also taught that you can check the idle solenoid but unplugging it, then plugging it back in. It should click. … talking about the wiring harness connector attached to the side of the carb here.
- Thread starter
- #26
Went to start the rig over the weekend and noticed fuel dripping out of this valve on the carb. This could be part of the problem why it’s not running/idling properly
There is a post about that particular circuit in the carb that contains everything you'd ever want to know about it. I suspect that's not the issue because it's not one of the main fuel feeds - it's entirely smog related. Let me find the link.....
- Thread starter
- #28
I agree, I don't think it has anything to do with any of the issues. I think it was caused by me tapping the gas on initial cold startup, which I probably shouldn't have done anyway. I did however check the Idle solenoid. It gets 12V but I do not hear any clicking when I turn the key to on or when I have the key on and unplug and plug it back in. I even used a stethoscope to try and listen for a click and didn't hear anything. Also, when it was running I unplugged it and there was no change on how it ran
Troubleshooting Secondary Slow Cut Valve Modification on Aisin 2F Carb
Hey Folks, I'm looking for suggestions on how I might go about diagnosing whether or not the modification I did to the Secondary Slow Cut Valve (see image below) is working correctly. This is on a OEM Aisin Carb (PN 21100-61141) from a 2F 12/1981 FJ60 USA. After having successfully rebuilt...
forum.ih8mud.com
I think this is it.
- Thread starter
- #30
Didn't hear clicking when key turned forward so I checked for 12V going to it and it had it so I removed the solenoid and put 12V directly to it and nothing. Inspected and found the wire frayed close to the solenoid as pictured. Will order a new one and go from there. Thanks for the insight
Solder that thing back together and shrink wrap it while you're waiting!
- Thread starter
- #32
I actually tried that and it still didn’t work. I guess it went bad? Seems like a simple mechanism, not sure how it just goes bad. Have one that’s supposed to be here tomorrow from Cool Cruisers. Just have to splice the old connecter on the new solenoid. Hopefully this helps with the idle so I can get to diagnosing the overheating issue
- Thread starter
- #33
So I got the idle solenoid from cool cruisers today and got it installed and WOW what a difference! Now I’m down to figuring out this overheating issue. I stood by the driver fender and could feel the fan blowing hot air and then it does change a little and blow warm air. Upper radiator hose feels firm but am able to pinch it a good ways, it’s certainly not rock solid. The coolant overflow is not bubbling either. Here’s a picture of what my gauge reads at idle (800RPM) after a short 10 minute drive up the street and back, about 50MPH. I’m going to take some pictures with my infrared camera and post them so you guys can see the temps. At this point I’m trying to rule out that the gauge is faulty, even though it’s a new OEM temp sensor.
- Thread starter
- #34
Happy to report that I've solved the overheating issue. Although I burped the cruiser after replacing all the new cooling parts I did not run the front and rear heaters while doing so. I did that this afternoon and now it's running normal temp even in 95+ degree weather (180% humidity) here in Florida. I appreciate all the insight and hope this thread helps someone in the future. Cheers!
Just be aware the cheap Chinese ones sometimes don't work properly or fail quickly. If you start having idling issues again, that's the first thing I'd look at. Just sayin'.
