I'm fixin to purchase a Denso compressor, dryer, and expansion valve for roughly $250 as the old stuff in my 1987 FJ60 is shot. Just wanted to double check opinions here first as to weather this is a good plan/option.
60 Air Conditioning (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Chriedwa
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Good plan. That's what I did with mine and AC is tits cold. Did the R134a conv at the same time.
Even better is to buy those Denso components from MUD Vendor and 60 owner, Rex ( 1972FJ55). PM him.
Here's his shop: CoolStream
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/498225-compressor-id.html
Even better is to buy those Denso components from MUD Vendor and 60 owner, Rex ( 1972FJ55). PM him.
Here's his shop: CoolStream
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/498225-compressor-id.html
- Thread starter
- #3
Just pm'ed him...we'll see.
You mentioned doing the R134a conversion at the same time. Is this necessary and what are the additional costs?
Might even be cheaper now 'cuz R12 is so expensive. Ask Rex, he'll be able to give you the numbers and the pros and cons...
r12 is great but r134 conversion is still very cold in an FJ60. I was able to get my AC serviced with R12 for $90 locally.
You meant A/C hoses, or cooler hoses, yes ? (you been lookin' at the EPC, eh?)
Last summer, a local cruiser guy had some made at an A/C shop for his 60/62 hybrid Frankenstein - they used the fittings from the old hoses and made new ones out of them. And from the look of that shop, if they could do it, anyone can ... Other than that, I haven't faced the problem, yet.
I'm guessing Rex would know better than anyone what's available?
Do you still have your old ones ?
You meant A/C hoses, or cooler hoses, yes ? (you been lookin' at the EPC, eh?)
Last summer, a local cruiser guy had some made at an A/C shop for his 60/62 hybrid Frankenstein - they used the fittings from the old hoses and made new ones out of them. And from the look of that shop, if they could do it, anyone can ... Other than that, I haven't faced the problem, yet.
I'm guessing Rex would know better than anyone what's available?
Do you still have your old ones ?
Yep, still have the old ones.
I'm just wondering if they are any good .
Have to ask Rex for his thoughts when i order the compressor.
Unless you see a problem with the hoses, the old ones should be fine. I just did the conversion to R134 when I replaced my compressor and dryer. I went with Rex and glad I did. He was very helpful when I had a few questions during installation. Since I had it apart, I flushed my hoses. I did have to fabricate my dryer bracket since the aftermarket ones are not as wide.
I'd stay with R12 if you can get it.
It costs more than R-134a, sure, but how often are you going to have to recharge the R-12?
Hopefully not for a long time assuming your A/C system will be in tip-top condition and since you're replacing stuff, it sure sounds like it will be.
It costs more than R-134a, sure, but how often are you going to have to recharge the R-12?
Hopefully not for a long time assuming your A/C system will be in tip-top condition and since you're replacing stuff, it sure sounds like it will be.
During a normal day you wont be able to tell the difference between R12 and R134. But in the extreme heat the R12 can carry more BTU's and keep the cruiser cooler.
I am not an AC guy.
But I was told when my FJ 80s AC went warm, that basically as long as all the parts are undamaged. O rings and dryer are the only thing that should need replaced.
Coincidentally this all that needs to be done to properly convert to R134
R-12 is available to anyone with a license and is much more expensive.
John
Shameless self promotion. I have a complete AC system out of an 86 for sale. PM me if interested.
But I was told when my FJ 80s AC went warm, that basically as long as all the parts are undamaged. O rings and dryer are the only thing that should need replaced.
Coincidentally this all that needs to be done to properly convert to R134
R-12 is available to anyone with a license and is much more expensive.
John
Shameless self promotion. I have a complete AC system out of an 86 for sale. PM me if interested.
Coolstream
Coolstream Auto Air Conditioning Parts
Just to help clarify a couple things.
If the reason the system starts blowing warm is lack of refrigerant, the source of the leak(s) needs to be identified, and while o-rings are certainly a possibility, there are plenty of other areas where leaks could happen. The schrader valves, hoses, the evaporator core, the compressor front or body seals or the condenser are all common leak spots.
When converting to R134, the correct oil needs to be added to the system. ND6 (mineral oil) which is what an R12 system uses, is not carried by R134a, so you need to add PAG 46 (ND8) to the system.
- Thread starter
- #15
Rex, What else is needed to convert a new system to R134 besides switching the oil?
You'll need conversion fittings to go from the 1/4" male flare R12 fittings to the R134a quick-disconnect fittings. I'd avoid the cheap aluminum ones and spend the ~$5ea. for the good steel ones. Be sure to remove the valve cores in the ports on the LC, since the adapters have their own cores. As a general rule, you'll want to use about 75-80% as much R134a as R12. So the original system capacity is ~1.5 lbs, you'd want to start with ~1.1 lb of R134a. Then watch your pressures and temperature to fine tune. A couple other things to keep in mind: 1) R134a is a smaller molecule than R12, so if there is a small leak with R12, it will most likely be a bigger leak with R134a and 2) R12 carries the mineral oil with it and it forms an extra barrier in the hoses that help it stop the refrigerant from permeating the hose-not so with R134a.
I was reading elsewhere on the interglobalknowsitallwebnet that all O-rings should be replaced when converting from R12. Said that could be 10-15 O-rings. Is that true in our cruisers? If so, what size and quantity are needed? A couple more questions embedded below.
I hope to convert mine myself (FJ62) but I have an estimate from my shop to fix/convert my ac that includes: (1) Compressor - I have one used from another Mudder that is said to be good, (2) Receiver Drier - will get local, (3) Retrofit Kit - $64 - is this the fittings described above and new oil? Quantity = 2? Is there a good part number and source?, (4) "Green A/C ORING" - $1.07 - does green denote size?, and (5) 32 Oz freon 134A.
Have seen reference to "flushing" lines in the process. Needed and if yes, what is the process/medium?
Where exactly does the new oil go and should this only be added after the newly put together system has been evacuated and before adding the new freon? I don't have the tools/knowledge or know folks to do the evacuation/freon on the budget plan but do plan to do the wrenching and save a bunch on their labor. Appreciate your advice.
I hope to convert mine myself (FJ62) but I have an estimate from my shop to fix/convert my ac that includes: (1) Compressor - I have one used from another Mudder that is said to be good, (2) Receiver Drier - will get local, (3) Retrofit Kit - $64 - is this the fittings described above and new oil? Quantity = 2? Is there a good part number and source?, (4) "Green A/C ORING" - $1.07 - does green denote size?, and (5) 32 Oz freon 134A.
Have seen reference to "flushing" lines in the process. Needed and if yes, what is the process/medium?
Where exactly does the new oil go and should this only be added after the newly put together system has been evacuated and before adding the new freon? I don't have the tools/knowledge or know folks to do the evacuation/freon on the budget plan but do plan to do the wrenching and save a bunch on their labor. Appreciate your advice.
Coolstream
Coolstream Auto Air Conditioning Parts
Replacing the o-rings is a good idea regardless whether you're retro-fitting or not. You can buy an o-ring kit (MT2582) for $5 that will give you all the o-rings in the system (and more). Green denotes the material the o-rings are made of, not the size. Don't waste $64 on an "retro kit", you just need PAG 46 oil (<$8.00) and the two fittings shown in the post above ($10). See the post above concerning the amount of R134a needed. 32oz will result in a severe overcharge. You only need to flush the lines if there's debris in them from the compressor coming apart internally which is not common on LC's. After you've drained the oil from the old compressor, add the new oil to the suction port, the one where the larger hose attaches. Once you've installed the compressor, spin the front hub of the compressor a dozen times to distribute the oil. Replace the drier last, then take it to be evacuated and recharged.
isnt R134A sold with the proper lubricant already in it?
I used to be a manager at vatozone and I remember selling R134A that had lubricant and some sort of conditioner as well. They even had some R134A that had a stop leak in it...lol but I dont think it worked to well.
Coolstream
Coolstream Auto Air Conditioning Parts
Yes, some brands of R134a have oil and/or sealers in them. There are two issues with this: 1) the oil is "universal" rather than the specific type for the system and 2) if the system already has oil in it, adding extra oil will degrade the system performance. Sealers are generally bad news, they can kill an R/R/R machine.
