60 Air Conditioning

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Just had two hoses made in Vancouver B.C. $340! did I get ripped off? The work was well done I must say, I was there the whole time, took about 1 hour and 20 min. charged $190 labour! Should I be calling them back and asking what the deal is?
 
jzilla said:
Just had two hoses made in Vancouver B.C. $340! did I get ripped off? The work was well done I must say, I was there the whole time, took about 1 hour and 20 min. charged $190 labour! Should I be calling them back and asking what the deal is?
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The average charge for a hose re-build in our shop is $70-80. That involves cutting off the metal ends of the old hose, welding new crimp sleeves to each end and crimping in new hose. We always replace the o-rings and any valve cores. The labor time sounds about right, however, our shop rate is $70...
 
Rex, thank you for being so generous with your expertise. That's what makes this such a great site. Just put on new mud guards and fixed my chrome rub rail strip today. Next weekend is the A/C. IBased on your info I too thought 32 oz was excessive. Thanks again. Jay
 
yes I think so...

If I have to get mine done again....I'm going to buy a new GM muffler hose assembly (the main hose that connects to the compressor) and then have the toyota ends put on there.

Even if you went with with everything new I think #340 is steep.


jzilla said:
Just had two hoses made in Vancouver B.C. $340! did I get ripped off? The work was well done I must say, I was there the whole time, took about 1 hour and 20 min. charged $190 labour! Should I be calling them back and asking what the deal is?
Click to expand...
 
Rex thanks for the reply. Are the dryers you sell a direct bolt in? Are they the same as the original toyota ones?

I got the AC working yesterday... had a friend (been doing A/C since 1968 so I figured he knows his stuff) do it for me, (evacuated the system and recharged with 134a, we weren't sure how much to put in so he fine tuned it by the gauges, I think he said he put 3lbs in, I just read you say about 1.1lbs is all you need, would that cause a leak having excess?) Also added the quick connect fittings inline with the hoses because he happened to have those lying around the shop.

Now it looks like the compressor is leaking from the flanges on top, looking at the parts diagram there are a couple of o rings under each one.
Wish I had thought of replacing those before! Since I have to fix the leak I thought I should get a new dryer.
 
The Denso brand driers are the same as OE, most aftermarket driers are smaller in diameter and length than the original.

An overcharge can create a leak due to excessive hi-side pressures. The system is designed to run about 200-250psi and an overcharge can boost that to 400+psi.

Those four o-rings under the flanges are a common leak point.

Hope this helps,
Rex
 
Great thanks, I will put in a new dryer on Thurs, they have some in stock at Toyota here. Will replace those 4 o rings as well.
Going to have the system recharged after to the 1.1 lbs.
And 27 ftlbs is what the 4 allen bolts get torque to?
 
I am still messing around with gathering parts (I am only home on weekends) for the conversion. The final piece for the compressor mod is the low side screw on adapter with quick connect size needs to be 3/8" vice the 7/16" that I find everywhere (like the image below). Been to three local shops with no luck. Have searched a bunch on line for one but not in the right place since I haven't found one. Such an thing must exist. Location assistance or alternatives appreciated.
R134a_Adapter.webp
 
jjvbva said:
I am still messing around with gathering parts (I am only home on weekends) for the conversion. The final piece for the compressor mod is the low side screw on adapter with quick connect size needs to be 3/8" vice the 7/16" that I find everywhere (like the image below). Been to three local shops with no luck. Have searched a bunch on line for one but not in the right place since I haven't found one. Such an thing must exist. Location assistance or alternatives appreciated.
Click to expand...

Are your original threaded service ports the same size, or is one slightly smaller than the other? If they're different sizes, which I suspect they are, the smaller (3/16") one is the high-side. The larger (1/4") is the low-side.
 
jjvbva said:
3/16" looks like the inside diameter (where the valve was). So what I am looking for will use the inside threads and not the outside which is 3/8"?
Click to expand...

The adapter you need looks just like the one pictured below. They are the same except for the inside diameter of the threads. The Omega part number is 35-16362-S 4Seasons # 59978 or Santech #MT0142
R134a adapters 2.webp
 
Thank you. Will track one down.

Another aspect that confuses me. FSM says to add oil to compressor when replacing. "Add the same amount of oil that was removed, plus 20cc, into the compressor." Check, got that. FSM says to add oil to compressor when replacing Receiver/Dryer. "If receiver was replaced, add compressor oil to compressor. Add 20cc (0.7 oz)." DENSO instructions say to add 20cc oil to the Receiver/dryer. Which of the instructions is correct for the Receiver/Dryer? If adding the 20cc to compressor, does that account for the 20cc to the Receiver/Dryer? Or add 40cc?
 
Thank you. Was able to use the part numbers provided and find the high side adaptor at NAPA. When I went there earlier, they just looked on the sales floor. This time they opened up one of their specialty fittings boxes under the counter and found it. Thanks again.
 
Lots of great info here. I am still confused on how to get rid of the old mineral oil. Do you just drain it, or push it out with compressed nitrogen? Also, after getting the oil out of the compressor, do you flush the rest of the system with dry nitrogen to get it out of the other components? If so, are there a any components that you dont want to force compressed gas down? I was watching this really helpful video, but it isnt so clear on that either R12 TO R134A RETROFIT CONVERSION , THE RIGHT WAY !! - YouTube
 
Typically, flushing using a solvent based A/C flush will remove any residual oil from the lines and condenser. Don't put flush in the compressor, just invert it and let the oil drain. Sometimes turning the front hub by hand a few times will facilitate more oil removal. Then put in the proper oil for the retrofit, PAG 46, I'd add 3.5 oz to the suction side of the compressor and another 2 oz to the new drier. Button it up then evac and recharge. Your R134a charge amount will be about 20 oz.
 
Great. Thanks Coolstream. I was hoping there was a way without taking the compressor off if I just have compressed gas around. If so this upgrade will just be a short afternoon of work. Taking it off wont be that bad I guess as It will give me an extra push to replace my belts.
 
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