60 Air Conditioning

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So I'm about to die from the 110 degrees here in Texas in my 86 FJ60. I've got all the parts in my truck to run A/C but my dad who gave me the truck said that when he bought it, the A/C didn't work. The belt has been taken off since he got it so we assume the clutch or compressor is frozen or something. I've never had a truck with A/C so I'm pretty clueless as to what to look for. I guess to start out diagnosing what it is, should I get a belt on it first to see what it is or can I just go ahead and tear apart the compressor and everything? (assuming that the system is empty of course)
Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Ross
 
Before you tear anything apart, see if the pulley where the belt rides, spins freely. Then try to turn the front hub of the compressor, the disc in front of the pulley, it should spin with some resistance. If they check ok, I'd put a belt on and see what happens. If the pulley won't spin, you'll need a new pulley bearing at a minimum. If the front hub is locked, it's time for a new compressor and drier at a minimum. Good luck!
 
I've checked the pulley and the clutch by hand and they both spin pretty freely. Do I need to check them with the engine running or with the button in the cab on or anything like that? I just went down to Oreilly's and got an A/C belt for it. (it was only a dollar and some change with my employee discount! :D) I'm waiting for the engine to cool down a bit now before I stick it on.
 
Once you've put the belt on, it will be time to see if the clutch will engage when you hit the A/C button. Since the system hasn't been operational, it could be low enough on refrigerant that the pressure switch will keeep the clutch from engaging. If this is the case, no clutch engagement, you can temporarily run 12 volts to the clutch wire to make the compressor engage. Once it's on, look at the sight glass, which is on the top of the drier, and see if it has bubbles. If so, it indicates low refrigerant. Don't leave the jumper wire connected for more than a couple minutes at most.
 
Okay I've got the belt on and the clutch doesn't engage. which plug do I undo to run the 12 volts to the clutch? Some of the guys at Oreilly's helped me take a look at it and said it was more than likely empty and to just go ahead and hook it up to a vacuum and pressurize the system to see if it hold and if it does, go ahead and fill it. then I've heard conflicting stories as to what is better in terms of refrigerant. I know R12 is better but is it really THAT much better than R134A in these trucks?
 
Do you have some gauges you could hook up? Then you'd know what the static pressure in the system is. If it's just low on charge, you could use the sight-glass to charge it back up. If there's no pressure in the system, then I'd vacuum it down and start looking for leaks.
 
I Personally don't but my friends do and we plan on getting it figured out sometime thursday maybe. If nothing else I may end up just taking it to an A/C shop and have them make the switch from R12 to 134A. Either way I'll probably end up making the switch. Although IF it does have much pressure, and holds it, would it be wise to just go ahead and recharge it with R12 and oil? It also sounds like I may want to change out the condenser/drier?
 
Coolstream said:
The Denso brand driers are the same as OE, most aftermarket driers are smaller in diameter and length than the original.

An overcharge can create a leak due to excessive hi-side pressures. The system is designed to run about 200-250psi and an overcharge can boost that to 400+psi.

Those four o-rings under the flanges are a common leak point.

Hope this helps,
Rex
Click to expand...

I replaced those o-rings under the flanges last year, but I noticed they are leaking again...Just used some A/C o-rings that a friend had on hand.
Toyota does not list the o-rings as a part I can buy.
Maybe the allen bolts were tightened too much? What is the torque for those? Does not say in FSM.
I want to have new o-rings on hand, is there a denso part # or something?
Thanks!
J
 
Great! thanks so much you are a great resource here, will see what I can find.
I may end up having to get you to ship them to me in Canada if it is possible...
Looking at your website I see you have great prices on A/C stuff.
Unless there is a leak is it worth tearing into the compressor to replace o-rings etc?
Do expansion valves need replacing often? Just wondering if I should have replaced this when I had my cruiser all apart.
Wanting to check the pulley bearing now too...
Where is that torque listing from? Denso? I could not find it in the Toyota manual...
Just curious thanks!
J
 
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jzilla said:
Great! thanks so much you are a great resource here, will see what I can find.
I may end up having to get you to ship them to me in Canada if it is possible...
Looking at your website I see you have great prices on A/C stuff.
Unless there is a leak is it worth tearing into the compressor to replace o-rings etc? I'd only do this if there is evidence of a leak, or you have the system apart to fix something.
Do expansion valves need replacing often? Just wondering if I should have replaced this when I had my cruiser all apart. Expansion valves generally last a long while. If you have the system apart, it might be worth replacing it.
Wanting to check the pulley bearing now too...
Where is that torque listing from? Denso? I could not find it in the Toyota manual...It's listed in the Denso manual that comes with new compressors.
Just curious thanks!
J
Click to expand...

Zack1978 said:
Hi Rex,
First of all thank you for all the FJ-60 A/C help!
Do you sell a complete FJ60 A/C kit, inclusive of all the parts needed to rebuild the 60 system? Hi Zack, we don't have a standard kit, mainly because not everybody wants/needs the same stuff. We do stock most of the parts for the FJ60, but there are certain parts that no vendor is able to supply-primarily the hoses, thermistor and amplifier, although Toyota may still offer them. We can generally rebuild the hoses if necessary. We have pricing information on our website: http://www.coolstreamac.com



Thanks,
Zack
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Thanks guys, and let me know if you have more questions.
 
I have a V8 conversion with no a/c. Is there any hope for me? Would I be better off going with a Chevy a/c compressor and adapting it or a Toyota compressor and trying to make that work? What have other people done? The swap was done by the p/o.
 
Depends

campcite said:
I have a V8 conversion with no a/c. Is there any hope for me? Would I be better off going with a Chevy a/c compressor and adapting it or a Toyota compressor and trying to make that work? What have other people done? The swap was done by the p/o.
Click to expand...

Rex will be the better resource, but here's my $.02

How much of the original Toyota A/C system is still in place? If you still have the internal to the cab stuff and controls, then you might be simply able to get a 350/400 mounting bracket and some custom hoses built to interface into the toyota stuff from a new compressor. There are a couple of threads on the 60 board about folks putting a/c in for diesel swaps and for other motor swaps, probably worth tracking down and reading.

Also have a search on that interweb thingie for Vintage Air - they specialize in making retrofit a/c kits and hoses. Rex has access to the same stuff probably considerably more reasonable price, YMMV.

Glenn in Tucson (94 degrees today, and will be over 100 soon)
Not affiliated with Coolstream, just a happy customer.
 
Looks like Coolstream is no longer and is now Max-AC. I clicked the link in Coolstream's signature and got to the coolstream website but when I clicked "contact" I got an email back from someone at Max-AC. They called me and talked me through a parts list. The person who called me had zero Land Cruiser knowledge and was surprised by all of the LC requests he gets. I said "well that's because of Ih8mud", him "who? never heard of it." I didn't place the order as I wanted to check back here and see if Rex was still in the AC biz or not.

@Coolstream are you still selling parts?
 
Well, @Coolstream was last seen on here July 30, 2018. Hopefully he's still around, and hopefully people supported him enough to make it worth his while to offer all the help.
 
Well, here is the deal as far as I know. Rex and Coolstream parted company a few years back. He is still in town, but at a new (non-AC shop) gig. While he can no longer be the direct vendor, he may be willing to still answer questions. That LC knowledge is the most helpful bit. I would recommend to all of the self wrenchers out there to take the MACS section 609 open book test for R-12 recovery so you can get the certification and card. Allows you to legally buy the smaller cans of R-12, rather than the 30 lb BBQ sized ones. It's twenty bucks, but if you have a large number of older cars that you maintain for folks, its a handy investment. With Coolmax, having that cert allowed me to buy the cans and gear at a reasonable discount (though that may have been Rex giving me a MUD discount).

https://www.macsw.org/WEB/MACS/Sect...spx?hkey=a4bf82fe-9db6-4507-8ddd-27fd9b9153f6

$.02

Glenn in Marana
 
NookShneer said:
I order parts from Coolstream. They are still operating

Here is the Mud parts/pricing page on their website:

MUD - Land Cruise Parts and Pricing, Coolstream Auto AC | Tucson AZ
Click to expand...

Yes, That's the site I was on as well, and when I wrote them... I got a reply back from the company that acquired Coolstream (according to the sales rep). I was curious to see if Rex was still around and still doing this. His inbox is full so PM'ng him is a no go. The sales rep seamed fairly knowledgeable about what I should replace but he was by no means 'one of us'...

tucson_sailors said:
Well, here is the deal as far as I know. Rex and Coolstream parted company a few years back. He is still in town, but at a new (non-AC shop) gig. While he can no longer be the direct vendor, he may be willing to still answer questions. That LC knowledge is the most helpful bit. I would recommend to all of the self wrenchers out there to take the MACS section 609 open book test for R-12 recovery so you can get the certification and card. Allows you to legally buy the smaller cans of R-12, rather than the 30 lb BBQ sized ones. It's twenty bucks, but if you have a large number of older cars that you maintain for folks, its a handy investment. With Coolmax, having that cert allowed me to buy the cans and gear at a reasonable discount (though that may have been Rex giving me a MUD discount).

Section 609 Main

$.02

Glenn in Marana
Click to expand...

Sounds about right about Rex based on my phone call with that other company.

Here is the website of the company that responded to my email.
Welcome to MAX-AC.com - The Only Auto A/C Parts and Tools Megastore
 
Rex is no longer employed at 'Coolstream' or whatever is the current business name. He was the Cruiser expert there.

@1972FJ55 is his MUD handle and maybe if he checks in he can direct us to his current place, if he's still in the HVAC biz.
 
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