45swb project - 2short

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I have been able to get fuel filler neck hose at both NAPA and KOI in the past... Definitely NOT cheap though. After you hear the price you might do a little junkyard crawling to get something that would work.

Nice work Sir Gumby!

Nick
 
Thanks

McMaster Carr has some - $13.49/ft minimum 5 feet.

I need 6 inches.



They also have some that's rated for up to 15% ethanol, which, of course, we have here. $170 for a 5' length



Should have gone with Amazon first. They have freaking EVERYTHING

http://www.amazon.com/62-65-Fairlan...7JM6/ref=sr_1_19?ie=UTFqid=1330865075&sr=8-19

They get the part from Auto Krafters - who carries a ton of the stuff at very reasonable prices.

I love the internets.
 
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try a hydraulic shop, we have a place called hanna rubber that had fuel hose by the foot. essentially Aeroquip hose that's HUGE. i used it last time i had the aux tank in the 40. will revisit that hose when i get the back tank in the 45 as well.. took a sawsall to cut it has braided steel inside. but $13 isn't worth traveling for really. order it and be done.

wouldn't happen to have a picture of the tank in the back and placement would you? i'm needing a couple ideas on how to fit the confer tank in the back since the frame is slightly different than the 40. please and thank you.. looks like you have a confer type in the back but i cant' really tell.. read back thru and didn't see a reference to your tank or placement.
 
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It looks like a confer tank. The PO had cut the trianglulated braces to the rear crossmember and angled them differently to fit it in there, I think. There's a 4" channel between the rear bumper and the bottom of the bed. I had to notch that yesterday to fit the tank. The filler neck is above the frame rail.

It looks like this, but the transition between the high and low areas of the tank is at a right angle.

A 2x4 rec tube fit right in that area with angle iron tabs for the low through holes and plates to the top of the rec tube for the high ones. I'm way more confident with the strength of this mount than the 50g bolted to the floor of the LV.
 
Struggled with the w/s all day. I put the glass in one evening by myself except for the "zipper" and it fell out when I tilted the window down. We just could not get the seal in all day today with extra hands. It was a bear. I tried without the zipper and couldn't get the glass in before it fell out, so now I'm trying to put the zipper in the seal to get the seal to stay on the window frame long enough that we can get the glass in it. What a PIA.
 
Long day.

Hooked up the exhaust. I just ran the Y to an expander from 2 to 2-1/2, then a straight pipe over the crossmember. The Flowmaster is right behind the crossmember and ends right where the frame kicks up. At some point I'll put in a pipe up along the frame, around the fuel tank and out just in front of the rear shackle. For now it bends at a 90 and out just behind the front spring hanger.

Got the trans tunnel in primer along with the driver's door. Got the running boards sandblasted and primered. Got the running board mounts sandblasted and powdercoated. I had to get a broken bolt out of one and had to replace a 1"x4" chunk of the other. They are all mounted up and ready to go.

messed with the shims in the starter and got it sounding good.

Hooked up a vacuum gauge to the intake and found it had positive pressure pulses. So I pulled the valve covers and adjusted all the valves. After I put it together it fired right up. Still needs a bit of carb adjustment, but it idles.

Needed to get it to idle so I could fill the trans. Hooked up the shifter linkage. Now the wheels turn. The brake pedal is still soft but it stopped the wheels.

Burped the steering.

Messed with the fan spacer for a little while before I just ordered the right one.

I ran it to take a vid just before I left and I think I blew the rear main seal. Puked about two quarts of oil on the floor and it looks like it's coming from everywhere on the rear of the engine
 
Gumby said:
The correct flywheel just showed up so hopefully, it'll be running again today.

Tabs on rear axle.

And my new secret weapon to ensure my welds are top quality.
Click to expand...

SWEEEEET! More pics of the Secret Weapon. s*** I need one of those. Did you paint that yourself?


Gumby said:
Puked about two quarts of oil on the floor and it looks like it's coming from everywhere on the rear of the engine
Click to expand...

OUCH.

Nice thread. I'm hooked.
 
Yup. I looked online for a Michigan welding helmet and I couldn't find one. It kinda looks like I painted it myself, but it will get all beat up pretty quickly anyway.

I might have blown out a cam plug or something. I'll know when I pull the trans back on Monday.
 
"The left driving light is the modified one. It has a PC168 brake light bulb in it to make it shorter to clear the steering box. I'll put one of those in the right one too so they are the same brightness. "

Can you elaborate on this please? You somehow changed the housing? My Drivers side bib light is hitting the steering box as well. Not sure it's as dramatic as yours but just in case i'd like to learn something.
 
The PC168 has the housing and the bulb in one piece. I cut off the skinny end of the housing and glued the PC to the back of what was left. I soldered wires directly to the socket. It's not the best. I'd like to wire in some LEDs.
 
Moving along

The rear main wasn't the problem, but it needed changing. The lip of the seal was folded over and torn. It really didn't take long to slide the trans back and swap the one piece seal.

The problem is the oil filter adapter. They changed in 86 and I had a 64 adapter on it. I ordered the 86 and up adapter. It'll be here Thursday. The O ring blew out on the flexplate side and sprayed the flexplate which sprayed everything else.

The windshield is in.

The wiper motors are in and wired up.

The bib is all done except the grill. The headlights are all bolted up and wired through the grommets. The grill is sandblasted and epoxy primered.

The brakes are re-bled and are much better.

Fan spacer is here and it looks like it will work well. The bolts that came with it are ASE and I needed metric so I picked up those on the way home. Cleaned and primered the fan shroud. It will be a miracle if it fits just right though. Pulled the studs from the water pump pulley.
 
Really great job!! You completely brought that one back from ready for the salvage yard!
 
Just drove it.

About 10 feet back and forth, but it started, engaged the trans and stopped with the brakes.

Hooked up the alternator to work. Fiddled with the carb a bit.

Took it for a drive around the parking lot. Maybe went a 1/4 mile.
 
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Buttoning up. All the little stuff that eats time.
Went and got the correct bolts for the upper front shocks and installed them.
Built a new w/s vent cover. That took some time. Still have to TIG the bolts on the back and paint it.

Mostly worked on the pig today.
 
DomSmith said:
Interested in some pics on that one.
Click to expand...
I'll get some. I went back and forth with cutting out the middle and welding in new, which would have warped like crazy, building a new one from 18g, or building a new one from 1/8. The problem with the 18g was that it was too thin. There's no way I could fold the corners like Mr T did. I ended up doing it out of 1/8. The hard part was cutting it to width straight. I couldn't cut it with the shear like I could with the thinner metal.. I cut it with the bandsaw, then set it on edge on the surface grinder to make it perfectly square. I clamped the old one to it and sprayed primer on it where the new one showed around the edges. When I ground it down until no primer showed, it was the same shape as the original.
 
Gumby said:
Wasn't supposed to work on it today, but I got stuck at work with nothing else to do but wait for someone, so I took the Holley back apart and fixed the idle circuit. idles very well now
Click to expand...

Nice.

What time are you going in tomorrow?
 
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