45swb project - 2short

[cruiserbrett]

When I sprayed the concept, I found that the company called for a smaller tip than I could get good spray pattern from. So I asked a body shop friend, and he recommened adding a touch more reducer to thin it out. I spray primer with a 1.8 and the top coat with a 1.4

According to him, the paint should be done with the fast drips off a stir stick in 5 seconds. You may get a slow drip after that for sure, but not the drip drip drip bit.

After that, it works well.

because of compliance with EPA etc minimizes VOC, you will find a bit more reducer(which raises the VOC) and more air pressure(which raises the amount of paint that doesnt hit the truck and raises VOC) make for a better spray out with less orange peel.

Reducer temp range also helps reduce solvent pop. Warm temp reducer flashes off faster so if you get solvent pop try a higher temp range reducer.

It calls for between 1.3 and 1.6. I had a 1.4 in my other gun and I was having a lot of problems. It might have been the gun. It worked fine before.

The 1.8 was in my primer gun already from having just sprayed K38.

 

[Gumby]

I'll give that a shot. I'd like to use the finer tip with the Pyrite Mica for sure. I've found it's way easier to get metallic to lay right if you can lay down a fine final coal

 

[miker]

Reducer temp range also helps reduce solvent pop. Warm temp reducer flashes off faster so if you get solvent pop try a higher temp range reducer.

I may not understand completely what you are saying, but I thought a warm temp reducer would slow the time to flash. I.e., flash slower giving you more time to work when the temperature (in your painting environment) is high.

 

[cruiserbrett]

I may not understand completely what you are saying, but I thought a warm temp reducer would slow the time to flash. I.e., flash slower giving you more time to work when the temperature (in your painting environment) is high.

I thought so too. Until I had solvent pop issues and asked for some help.

Heres the logic:
reducer is mainly to thin the paint to get it out of the gun in a well atomized spray pattern.
Secondarily, it does help flow out and make a soother surface. After the paint is on the surface it only needs a few seconds to maybe a minute to flow out and be nice and smooth. After that, the reducer is not needed, or wanted for that matter.

The "skin" of the paint forms from the reaction of the catalyst and the paint. The amount of catalyst and temperature drive the speed of the reaction. higher temps make the reaction much faster. Hours vs days in some cases.

Solvent pop is the formation of mini bubbles of the off gassing solvent(reducer)trying to get out of the skin that formed from the catalyzed reaction.

A higher temp rated reducer flashes off faster, so that a majority of it can flash even before the paint hits the surface, and most of the rest flashes before the skin forms on the paint. This minimizes the reducer trying to off gas through the now "skinned" paint.

I didnt believe it, but tried a reducer that was slightly rated for a higher temp than the ambient air temp, and it worked great.

One thing to note, dont cheat, and use less reducer thinking its going to minimize solvent pop. It doesnt work to your advantage b/c the spray quality of the gun suffers and you will get bad orange peel.

 

[Gumby]

Today we got some stuff buttoned up on the engine. I ran a few more underdash wires. Installed the starter and got it to crank.

Spent an hour + at the parts store. It's a good thing I do a lot of business with those guys.

I need a power steering hose with a 7/16 inverted flare for a 78 Scout II steering box with a o-ring fitting for a 99 Suburban pump and a set of exhaust gaskets for a 88 Vette mated to a set of Vortec heads and a dipstick tube for a 78 C30 and a crossover pipe for a 67 283 C10 and a Holly square bore baseplate gasket, and a 5-8 psi electric fuel pump and a brake hose from the frame to the front axle of a 78 Land Cruiser and battery cables for a 89 G-20 with TBI and 40" of 1/4 brake line with a 10mm flare nut on one end.

No. That's all for one truck.

I left with a power steering hose ordered that has the correct end I needed. I was going to throw away the rest anyway. They had the baseplate gasket, but the exhaust gaskets are some kind of unobtanium. The brake line was no problem as long as I flare the 10mm end on. The crossover pipe is not available. They had the fuel pump in stock. I was shocked. The battery cables were easy. They ordered a chrome dipstick tube, which I hate, but I found the sweet braided steel one I had once I got home.

Tomorrow will be a fun day of getting the engine to fire and run.

I still need a part number or alternate application for the brake hose. No listing at all.

 

[Gumby]

Tons o info about the extra long brake hoses for a SOA. No listing for a stock length one.

 

[Gumby]

Power steering hose cut and re-flared with the new fitting. Now it is GM O-ring at the hydroboost and 7/16 double flare at the other.

Installed the Lokar-type braided steel trans dipstick. I hope it's not a real Lokar. The hole is too small for any funnel I have. It took me a half hour to put three quarts in. When I went to check it I can't get the stick back in. It hits right about where it goes into the trans. If I can't get it fixed easily I'll just put in the chrome one I got.

Carb base plate gasket is on. PCV is hooked up.

Radiator is hooked up. Heater hoses are plumbed to the fire wall. New t-stat and gasket in.

Battery cables are hooked up. No battery tray yet.

Filled with oil, but the oil filter adapter needs a couple of bolts I didn't have so I can't start priming it yet.

A little bit more wiring done under the dash. I wish I had a diagram I could read. The Haynes and the Chiltons have the same unreadable diagram that's online everywhere.

Rear sliding windows are in.

 

[Gumby]

Chrome dipstick doesn't want to go all the way in, but it went enough to put enough fluid in the trans that I can start it without worry.

Cooling system all buttoned up except for the heater. Damn radiator has a hole right above the lower hose. I'll have to see about brazing it.

I had to get rid of the sweet aluminum t/c cover. The motor wants the old style giant starter. The smaller metric starter wouldn't engage correctly. This one sounds much better.

Rounded up a battery. A car came in that was crashed. The owner wanted to know if the brakes really failed on her kid or if the kid wrecked their 5th car in 4 years. The brakes really did fail. A slow leak at one of the real calipers. Of course, that means the light had been on for some time, the 2nd circuit had been working and the e-brake worked fine. It had a good battery and I had a core for the wreckers. That wasn't even close to the worst case of car abuse by a kid this week. A girl came in with her car that she crashed the first day they had it. She couldn't get the hood open and she thought it might need oil. We got the hood open and put 4 quarts in this poor Saturn. It rattles bad. Even after being filled up. She's had it 200 miles.


Fuel pump is mounted, but needs to be wired and plumbed.

Oil filter adapter is fixed.

Found TDC and re-dropped the distributor

Getting pretty close to getting it running.

 

[chitown40]

Todd,

I have a spare 60 series radiator you can have if you want. I'm looking to get rid of some of my spare parts stash as we may be moving within the year and I'd hate to drag it all with me. Lemme know if it'll fit your project.

Rob

 

[Gumby]

I'll check it out, but they are pretty different IIRC. Thanks.

 

[4rnr]

60 series radiator is hella wide.

 

[Gumby]

That's what I'm thinking. If I'm gonna use a wide radiator it would be in the LV and then it'd probably be a 80 series so the AC condenser would fit.

 

[Gumby]

I feel good about today for the most part.

I've been trying to get the w/s frame and the door welded up all week, but haven't had the time during the day and I've been not at all interested in tackling it at the end of the day.

So I sucked it up and went in to do it today. It went way easier than I thought it was going to because I remembered I had an old 40 w/s frame. I felt bad cutting up a good, but ugly frame, but it made the job go way easier, it looks better and I'm in the same place with that frame as I was with the SWB frame if I decide I need it. Either way I had to build a corner.

I also took the side bolt block out of the old frame, made a cage for it and put it in the SWB frame. It was missing. You can see where it's supposed to be in the first pic and you can see where I used the bracket make sure it all lines up in the last pic.

 

[Gumby]

The door corner was less fun. It's on the two radius part of the door edge. I ended up putting 4 small pieces in there to get the curves right, then another piece on the bottom where it was spot welded to the outer skin.

 

[Gumby]

Hey! It fired!

Mallory optispark is toast, I think. I had to build a points distributor out of parts to get it to fire. I'll round up a HEI an be done with it.

Shot the parts I fixed yesterday in sealer. Ready for high build.

 

[Gumby]

It is alive. It starts and runs from the ignition switch.

Pulled the bed so we could work on the engine and back end at the same time.

Swapped in the limited slip diff that came with the LV. Figured a swb v8 could use it more than an awd I6 wagon.

Brake hoses all came in today as well as a quart of pewter gray metallic.

I hope to drive it before the 1 year anniversary of when I brought it home.

 

[Gumby]

Looks like I won a set of w/s hinges on fleabay. I have a set of 64 latches so I might just have to go foldable w/s.

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

Do the eyes of the hood ornament light up? Cause that would be awesome

 

[Gumby]

Mounted the fuel tank, wired the fuel pump and finished plumbing it.

Fired it up on it's own fuel using the ignition key. That was pretty cool.

Fixed a bunch of various fluid leaks.

Fixed a leaky tire so I can stop filling it up every time.

Powdercoated the spring perches.

Got a estimate for a custom exhaust. I think I'll be making my own.

Ordered a whole bunch of parts this morning too.

Gaskets, weatherstriping, hood ornaments, body mounts and a Lokar shifter are on their way.

 

[oldfj40]

Great work! It's looking better than ever.

You should be driving it in no time.