RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
Strong work! Jet coat those bad boys
Builds 400HP 6.2L LS with 6 Speed auto swap....no lift. Plug 'n play swap kit in development (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Arya Ebrahimi
- Start date
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Would you mind pics from underneath. Also...post up the gm part numbers cast into the manifolds (under the heat shield, right on the cast iron).
Thanks
Thanks
Skrewball
TLCA#18502
Pretty sure the Hooker manifolds and 2010 Camaro manifolds bolt in place of each other. Not for your situation, just for reference to a previous comment.
When you're all done and need a second opinion on installing your kit, just let me know!
Get with it! Feb is coming quick!!
When you're all done and need a second opinion on installing your kit, just let me know!
Get with it! Feb is coming quick!!
- Thread starter
- #84
Thanks RockJock, that crossed my mind as well. The heat shield only interferes at the u-joint on the steering box. I think I can just push it in a bit and it will clear.
Now that I have the manifolds nailed down, I will be working on the motor mounts.
Now that I have the manifolds nailed down, I will be working on the motor mounts.
- Thread starter
- #85
dallen, I'll get some pics from underneath for you.
Vince, I think the Camaro manifolds and the E-rod manifolds can be interchanged. I think the exit flange on the hooker/holley manifolds sit in towards the motor about 1-2".
Vince, I think the Camaro manifolds and the E-rod manifolds can be interchanged. I think the exit flange on the hooker/holley manifolds sit in towards the motor about 1-2".
Skrewball
TLCA#18502
That may be.. The Hookers say they use the Camaro downpipe gaskets.
I'll quit spoutin, and just keep readin!
I'll quit spoutin, and just keep readin!
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
The Hooker manifolds are the best fitting I've found so far... Hooker just needs to cough up the money and make them carb approved lol...
- Thread starter
- #88
That would be ideal!
- Thread starter
- #89
It's definitely a lot of work, but since when was tossing a turbo on a 1FZ a little bit of work? 
I'm hoping to make this a lot less work by working it all out for people. If things go as planned, I think 2 buddies could pull the 1FZ and complete the LS install in 2 long weekends if they were relatively mechanically able.
I'm hoping to make this a lot less work by working it all out for people. If things go as planned, I think 2 buddies could pull the 1FZ and complete the LS install in 2 long weekends if they were relatively mechanically able.
RockJock82
Sometimes you have to kick a little A$$
Just toss on a turbo hahaha!
That's a sweet fit with the cts manifolds. Nice work! They fit like they were meant to go in there (just like an lsx )
)Yeah right! Maybe after the motor swap is done and then turbo the lsx.... Can you say rocket ship? At some point the maximum input torque for the tcase and/or axles will be exceeded.
- Thread starter
- #93
Anyone care to guess what this is for?
![20141202_231300[1].jpg](data:image/svg+xml;charset=utf-8,%3Csvg xmlns%3D'http%3A%2F%2Fwww.w3.org%2F2000%2Fsvg' width='1280' height='720' viewBox%3D'0 0 1280 720'%2F%3E "20141202_231300[1].jpg")
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Template for oil pan clearance?
- Thread starter
- #95
Yup. Ignore the large circle out of the 3. The circle on the right is the stock location of the radius arm frame side bolt. The left circle represents a 1" forward offset.
I'm thinking that if I redrill the factory bracket, I can then add a new plate with the new hole location to further reinforce the new hole location. Since the holes don't overlap at all, the redrilled bracket should be fairly sturdy as is, but I figure an 1/8" or 3/16" plate that matches the shape of the bracket and gets welded in can only help.
Thoughts?
I'm thinking that if I redrill the factory bracket, I can then add a new plate with the new hole location to further reinforce the new hole location. Since the holes don't overlap at all, the redrilled bracket should be fairly sturdy as is, but I figure an 1/8" or 3/16" plate that matches the shape of the bracket and gets welded in can only help.
Thoughts?
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
So you are thinking of moving the front axle forward 1 inch to clear the pan? That could work. If you are going to mess around with the factory mounts, make sure they keep the same profile so as to not interfere with the front most u bolt mount that most sliders have.
Similarly I have the MAF drop brackets at the moment which are preventing me from mounting the OPOR drivers side slider...waiting for slee arms to arrive, you want to avoid that issue.
Similarly I have the MAF drop brackets at the moment which are preventing me from mounting the OPOR drivers side slider...waiting for slee arms to arrive, you want to avoid that issue.
- Thread starter
- #97
Does the interference with the MAF brackets stem from the fact that they have the rearward gussets? My proposed plan wouldn't add any additional bracketry beyond the factory bracket.
Moving the axle forward will help solve tire fitment issues for the guys that want to run 37 plus tires in addition to making oil pan clearance. Win win.
Finnyfam60
Driving miss daisy
Yeah, but he's doing this on stock height, which won't ever see 37s... Is pan clearance an issue on raised rigs?
Dirty Koala
SILVER Star
Yes the MAF bracket has extra material on the rear side of the factory frame mount which is what gets in the way of the front u bolt around the frame.
