Just to clarify here - when the battery kept going dead and was losing power, was the engine off? Or was this while you were driving? Was the battery going dead to the point it wouldn't start? Or were you measuring the voltage with a multimeter?
40 won't run without choke at half
- Thread starter Hoz FJ40 CO
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Just to clarify here - when the battery kept going dead and was losing power, was the engine off? Or was this while you were driving? Was the battery going dead to the point it wouldn't start? Or were you measuring the voltage with a multimeter?
- Thread starter
- #42
I don't have a multimeter and the last time I drove it was Sunday 6/5/11. Since then I replaced all the vacuum hoses with new line, sprayed carb cleaner in and around the carb to try and clean it out.
The Headlights are brand new, all lights are actually new, their are new bulbs in the front apron lights but those are impossible to get new...you get my drift.
The truck was low on voltage when I was driving it Sunday night. I really haven't driven the truck at night and with all the lights on the headlights were very dim. This is when the truck was running.
So to answer your question : 1) When the battery kept going dead and was losing power, was the engine off? I noticed this when the truck was running that it was losing power. 2) Was the battery going dead to the point it wouldn't start? Yes, the truck wouldn't start after I shut it off without a jump.
The Headlights are brand new, all lights are actually new, their are new bulbs in the front apron lights but those are impossible to get new...you get my drift.
The truck was low on voltage when I was driving it Sunday night. I really haven't driven the truck at night and with all the lights on the headlights were very dim. This is when the truck was running.
So to answer your question : 1) When the battery kept going dead and was losing power, was the engine off? I noticed this when the truck was running that it was losing power. 2) Was the battery going dead to the point it wouldn't start? Yes, the truck wouldn't start after I shut it off without a jump.
Most of the folks here are recommending that you perform a simple check of the idle solenoid. The investigation literally takes minutes. Any reason why that hasn't been done? The solenoid is not located down inside the carb somewhere.
- Thread starter
- #44
Lee I'm doing that tonight!!! Just checking things off the list.
Okay, so now I am starting to agree with you that it's an alternator/charging system problem. You're already ordering a new alternator, so we'll just see what happens. It may help with your choke/idle problem, but it may not. I would still recommend you get a multimeter (you can get them for <$10) and do some checks according to the FSM/Haynes manual, just to be sure. It could also be your wiring; have you checked to make sure you have good conductivity/connections and grounds around the alternator/battery area? A couple years ago I thought my alternator was on the fritz (even though it had just been rebuilt), truck was running on battery power only, etc., but then I realized that it was just bad connections.
However, even after I fixed the connections and the alternator was fine, it had killed my battery for good. So I would still recommend you get your battery charged up and take it down to an Autozone or someplace and have them load test it to make sure running it down to dead didn't do any damage to it.
- Thread starter
- #46
I will check those out tonight and update in the morning. Thanks. The battery wasn't killed to dead and with the trickle charger on it I think it will be good to do.
I'm going to check for the clicking sound on the solenoid tonight and all the connectors on the battery and alternator. Oh your a Dave Ramsey fan...me too!!! Kewl!!!
I'm going to check for the clicking sound on the solenoid tonight and all the connectors on the battery and alternator. Oh your a Dave Ramsey fan...me too!!! Kewl!!!
- Thread starter
- #48
I tested the alternator and replaced it. It runs at a quarter choke now. Tonight I am rebuilding the carburator and checking on the idle solenoid. The carb kit came in yesterday. Will update in the morning with the progress of this issue.
Also you were 100% correct on not pulling the battery cable off the alternator due to power surges and what not. I confirmed with my mechanic/friend about this and he said 'well your not supposed to, but its an easy way to check.' needless to say he admitted that wasn't the best possible scenario.
short answer is: no
- Thread starter
- #50
Power issues have been handled. Working on the idle issues now.
Like they said checking the idle solenoid is simple. I just put one end to one side of the battery and the wire to the other and heard it click. I just rebuilt my carb yesterday, older and not as complex as yours. The carb dip can is highly recommended. I had one from a while back, a gallon can you buy at the auto store. Dropped all the parts in there let is soak for an hour, pulled out sprayed the passages with compressed air, carb cleaner, and compressed air again then re assembled. Now mine will start without touching the choke and revs up with no hesitation at all. Hope to test drive it around the block today. It will be the fist time this has hit the road in well over 7 years, probably more likely 10.
- Thread starter
- #52
What fluid is in the carb dip can? I will do that. Sounds like a great idea.
Also no click from the idle solenoid...will address that issue tonight as well.
Autozone and advance auto has it. It is a gallon can specifically for cleaning carburetors and parts. I think Gunk makes one. It even has a little basket in it for the small parts. It took two dippings. as the big pieces would not all fit in the can at once. Most auto stores will sell one type or another. Works great on lawn mower carbs also.
Carb dip is a solvent, usually TCE
- Thread starter
- #55
Update on this issue.
Last night we rebuilt the carb (my buddy/mechanic friend and I)
1) The carb looked like it hadn't ever been touched. It was dirty. There were some significant little chunks of debree (probably old gaskets) that came out of the carb.
2) The JT Outfitters carb kit was okay but it was only for the top half of the carb. Next time I will spend the money and get the entire carb rebuilt kit.
3) When the carb was apart we also figured out what the idle solenoid looked like so I will attach a picture. We tested to see if it had power and it did not. After hunting around and getting it all back together I checked the fuse panel and one of the fuses had wiggled its way out. I reset the fuse and turned the key to the 'on' position and heard the infamous 'click!'
4) After we figured out all the emissions stuff and got the air cleaner back on we fired up the old girl and she purred like a kitten.
So to sum things up :
1) Power issue:
Was due to an old alternator. Replaced old alternator with a new one and charging system is working correctly at this time. Also used the trickle charger on the truck battery for a week and the battery is fully charged. The dash gauges are reading a little over half on the battery meter.
2) Idling issue :
A couple things were going on here. The carb was in serious need of maint. and required a simple rebuild kit to clean it out.
Also the fuse had wiggled its way free and was causing a power issue to the idle solenoid.
The truck now idles and runs properly. It was a joy to drive home last night. After a month of dealing with a sick truck a little love gets you a long way.
Mastercard Ad :
A multimeter (which I still need to get) $12 talk to subzali
A new O'Reilly's Alternator $50
A new Carb rebuild kit $42
2 Cans of Carb cleaner $7
1 big box of Scott shop rags $15
7 hours total tearing into the carb, fuse panel and replacing alternator to get your truck to purr again?! PRICELESS!!!!
Last night we rebuilt the carb (my buddy/mechanic friend and I)
1) The carb looked like it hadn't ever been touched. It was dirty. There were some significant little chunks of debree (probably old gaskets) that came out of the carb.
2) The JT Outfitters carb kit was okay but it was only for the top half of the carb. Next time I will spend the money and get the entire carb rebuilt kit.
3) When the carb was apart we also figured out what the idle solenoid looked like so I will attach a picture. We tested to see if it had power and it did not. After hunting around and getting it all back together I checked the fuse panel and one of the fuses had wiggled its way out. I reset the fuse and turned the key to the 'on' position and heard the infamous 'click!'
4) After we figured out all the emissions stuff and got the air cleaner back on we fired up the old girl and she purred like a kitten.
So to sum things up :
1) Power issue:
Was due to an old alternator. Replaced old alternator with a new one and charging system is working correctly at this time. Also used the trickle charger on the truck battery for a week and the battery is fully charged. The dash gauges are reading a little over half on the battery meter.
2) Idling issue :
A couple things were going on here. The carb was in serious need of maint. and required a simple rebuild kit to clean it out.
Also the fuse had wiggled its way free and was causing a power issue to the idle solenoid.
The truck now idles and runs properly. It was a joy to drive home last night. After a month of dealing with a sick truck a little love gets you a long way.
Mastercard Ad :
A multimeter (which I still need to get) $12 talk to subzali
A new O'Reilly's Alternator $50
A new Carb rebuild kit $42
2 Cans of Carb cleaner $7
1 big box of Scott shop rags $15
7 hours total tearing into the carb, fuse panel and replacing alternator to get your truck to purr again?! PRICELESS!!!!
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The battery or alternator question came to my mind when I could not get my 40 started yesterday. After a jump start at work I disconnected the +ve and it kept running, confirming the alternator was good. Drove it to o'reilly on a presumed dead battery, they tested and officially declared it dead, it was not holding any charge at all.
- Thread starter
- #58
To note that does cause power surges in your electrical system. Check for blown fuses. Glad this thread could help you out.
We ran into this problem recently wanted to share with the forum. Looks like the idle circuit on these Aisin carbs can get clogged even after a rebuild. We made a small nozzle attached to an air compressor and shot 100 psi through all the tiny holes/channels while rebuilding. Solved our issues, we were chasing this problem for a long time. Wish you the best!
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