what do you think is wrong with your idle circuit solenoid? Have you checked the power and that it clicks on with switched power? Or do you think it's the o-ring? A carb rebuild kit might have the o-ring, but definitely won't do anything for you from the power point of view. What's the choke line that you are referring to? The choke is cable operated. Do you mean the vacuum hose to the throttle positioner diaphragm? If it's kinked I would replace it.
40 won't run without choke at half
- Thread starter Hoz FJ40 CO
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- #22
I will check all those out. The replacing of the vacuum line and carb clearner was my first approach to finding the culprit. They helped a bit but I can move on down my list of things I need to check. The vacuum lines took me a couple hours last night.
Tonight I'm going to check the alternator (for the power problem) and the idle solenoid (for the idle problem). Also going to attach the correct vacuum lines just to make sure those aren't the issue. But I think you guys are all right in that its the idle solenoid. Just at this point checking off the list of inexpensive fixes.
My point is... if the alternator is not working properly it can can cause idle issues as well.
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- #24
I appreciate your insight OUZIo and I will be checking that tonight as well.
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- #26
Yes the emissions thing (my finger is pointing at it) has a rubber hose that goes directly to the carb.
The 5/32 vacuum hose was to small to attach to this line so I need to get a 15 inch line to attach from the emission to the carb.
The "thingy" is a VSV - vacuum switching valve that should be connected to the tube in the insulator plate below the carb (between the carb and the intake manifold) It draw gas fumes from the charcoal canister on the passenger side through the steel tube into the carb once the engine is up to temp. It's actuated by a BVSV (bi-metal vacuum switching valve) located on the water pump that's color coded (blue, violet, brown, pink) depending on what temp the bi-metal valve is set top open.
The schematic might not be year correct but will give you an approximate routing
The schematic might not be year correct but will give you an approximate routing
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- #28
Thanks Ming, thats awesome. Didn't know the correct terms, now I do.
Hey, no worries. Emissions suck - literally.
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- #30
I attached the VSV to the Carb and it made little difference to the idling problem. I'm ordering a Carb Rebuilt Kit and will look at the idle solenoid when I get into the Carb Rebuild.
Also talked to my mechanic for suggestions about checking the alternator without a meter (I don't have one). He said the purpose for the battery is to get the vehicle started. After the vehicle is started and running the power comes from the alternator. He suggested that I get the 40 running then pull the positive terminal off the battery and if it stays running the Alternator is good, if it dies then I will need to replace the alternator. Here's what happened...
Needless to say I ordered a new alternator and my Carb Rebuild kit today.
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- #32
I have to rebuild the carb to get to the idle solenoid anyway. So just going to rebuild it. I plan on selling this truck in a few weeks so don't want a new owner to have to deal with this stuff. A carb rebuild is cheap and I have someone who can help walk me through it. Thanks for the suggestion though.My suggestion, do not touch the carb yet, try the new alternator first. Carb rebuild can be a big PITA, learned it the hard way
if you pull the positive off the battery with the engine running the engine will die. Every time. Period. Go buy a $12 multi meter and do some checks, it's a lot cheaper than buying a new alternator. And go find a new mechanic.
Slow down, don't just throw money and parts at it, do some more basic checks that don't cost anything, and figure out exactly what the problem is before proceeding.
Slow down, don't just throw money and parts at it, do some more basic checks that don't cost anything, and figure out exactly what the problem is before proceeding.
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- #34
Easy on the new mechanic comment subzali...he hasn't done me wrong this far.
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- #36
I will confirm per your suggestion. However I don't easily write off friends and don't expect perfection from people. On that note I do try to be approachable. So any suggestions are appreciated.
You can check the alternator in old cars that way but it doesn't work on cars with onboard computers/electical systems as it can cause spikes in the electrical system that can totally screw up your ride.
Easiest way is a meter but if you didnt have one this option would work, just not ideal
Easiest way is a meter but if you didnt have one this option would work, just not ideal
Couple clarifications:
-Are you losing power while driving the vehicle or after it is parked and shut off? If you are losing power while driving I would suspect the alternator and/or battery. If you are bleeding off voltage when parked/shut off I would suspect a current drain somewhere in the system.
-Do you have an Autozone or similar parts store nearby? They can check the charging system for you, either on the vehicle or they can test batteries and alternators independently.
-You do not need to disassemble the carb to get to the idle solenoid. You do not need to rebuild the carb to check the idle solenoid. All you need to do is check to see if you hear a "click" coming from the back side of the carb when you turn the key to the "ON" position. Have you done this check yet?
-It sounds like you've checked for all vacuum leaks, correct? One more place you might check would be to pull the carb off (which it sounds like you're going to do to do a rebuild), and look at the intake manifold and see if there is a crack there. If your heat riser is not working properly it could cause hot exhaust gases to be directed upward at the bottom of the intake manifold, which can eventually result in a crack and a resultant vacuum leak.
-Are you losing power while driving the vehicle or after it is parked and shut off? If you are losing power while driving I would suspect the alternator and/or battery. If you are bleeding off voltage when parked/shut off I would suspect a current drain somewhere in the system.
-Do you have an Autozone or similar parts store nearby? They can check the charging system for you, either on the vehicle or they can test batteries and alternators independently.
-You do not need to disassemble the carb to get to the idle solenoid. You do not need to rebuild the carb to check the idle solenoid. All you need to do is check to see if you hear a "click" coming from the back side of the carb when you turn the key to the "ON" position. Have you done this check yet?
-It sounds like you've checked for all vacuum leaks, correct? One more place you might check would be to pull the carb off (which it sounds like you're going to do to do a rebuild), and look at the intake manifold and see if there is a crack there. If your heat riser is not working properly it could cause hot exhaust gases to be directed upward at the bottom of the intake manifold, which can eventually result in a crack and a resultant vacuum leak.
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- #39
I have a brand spankin new battery in the truck plus I have a trickle charger on it when its not being used.
I have not checked the idle solenoid yet and I'm suspecting this is the case. Truck runs good but dies at 1/4 choke now since I've replaced all the vacuum lines.
The lights are very dim at night when driving the truck so I suspect that its the alternator. Hence having it plugged into the trickle charger if in fact it is draining the battery.
I already ordered the new alternator and will be installing that when I get it this weekend. I will check to see if the solenoid clicks tonight after work. If it doesn't click what do I need to do?
I have not checked the idle solenoid yet and I'm suspecting this is the case. Truck runs good but dies at 1/4 choke now since I've replaced all the vacuum lines.
The lights are very dim at night when driving the truck so I suspect that its the alternator. Hence having it plugged into the trickle charger if in fact it is draining the battery.
I already ordered the new alternator and will be installing that when I get it this weekend. I will check to see if the solenoid clicks tonight after work. If it doesn't click what do I need to do?
How old are the lights? Stock headlights kinda suck, especially if they are old.
If the solenoid doesn't click, check to make sure there it is hooked up to a 12V switched power source (from your picture it looks like it should be hooked up, but you never know). If it still doesn't click after you've confirmed it's getting switched 12V power, then you should probably look for a new one, though as someone else said it's rare that they fail.
If it clicks, then you could pull the solenoid out and check on the condition of the o-ring. If you're doing a carb rebuild you should do this at that time and blow air through the passages to make sure there is nothing blocking the fuel passages. Speaking of that, have you checked on the fuel level in the float bowl? I would also suggest you pull the air horn off (be careful not to rip the gasket) and check to see if there are any floaties in the float bowl that may be blocking your jets.
If the solenoid doesn't click, check to make sure there it is hooked up to a 12V switched power source (from your picture it looks like it should be hooked up, but you never know). If it still doesn't click after you've confirmed it's getting switched 12V power, then you should probably look for a new one, though as someone else said it's rare that they fail.
If it clicks, then you could pull the solenoid out and check on the condition of the o-ring. If you're doing a carb rebuild you should do this at that time and blow air through the passages to make sure there is nothing blocking the fuel passages. Speaking of that, have you checked on the fuel level in the float bowl? I would also suggest you pull the air horn off (be careful not to rip the gasket) and check to see if there are any floaties in the float bowl that may be blocking your jets.
