Builds 40 Series Chassis, 80 Series Suspension - Kept it Simply (2 Viewers)

[watrob]

So I am swapping out the front coil springs this coming Saturday morning, its only a 30 min job, want to pickup another 15mm lift in the front. Bolt the reco vacuum oil pump I have just finished to the back of the alternator, then another rear brake bleed. I found one small oil leak on the oil pressure line side to the vacuum oil pump from the block, so I am glad I decided to replace the vacuum pump as it was had to see there was a leak because on the battery cradle, will also do another general spanner check as well.

Then make a 50klm run-in trip for the engine, currently the oil pressure is a little on the low side but this is due to using a thinner mineral running oil which I have chosen, also this oil has double the amount zinc, the reason, although this is a fully rebuilt engine it still has wear on gears, oil pump shafts etc, the zinc will coat these parts.

Temperature wise, its running on the cold side also, partly due to few reasons, one is a 4 core Brass radiator (because of the beach) and I have also bumped up the volume of water running through the turbo (see photo), the turbo (inside & out), exhaust manifold (inside & out) and the water pump housing ( inside & out) have been ceramic coated as have the heat shields with is said to reduce heat by 30%.

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

it's amazing what coatings can do... we're planning on doing piston coating on a Buick motor I'm building - the theory is, with an oil cooler and a water cooled housing on the turbo, that the block coolant won't need much, if any water cooling.... which is good since we're 1/2 filling the block on a street car (we have to, otherwise the crank will come out of the oil pan - that's bad).

 

[watrob]

They say a 30% reduction in heat transference and will hold up 3000degs. They baked the ceramic coating to 250c and when you run the engine the second higher temperature bake occurs from its own engine heat.

Only time will tell how good it is?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

the short version of the story is this - we asked if we could hold 1200 hp with a stock 455 Buick block... the issue with the block is GM lightened the block at the main bearing webs, so traditionally the fuse is pretty low (read, GM had trouble at stock hp levels ~ 500 hp). So grandma's block now has a girdle, cam girdle, half fill, sleeved block.... and yes, it probably would have been cheaper to go with an aftermarket block... oh well, I need something to do in the rain. The motor goes in the car that will be similar to my avatar

 

[watrob]

So bulbar level, chassis level, body level to chassis, so no one is to touch it?

 

[watrob]

Ended up using an adjustable 80 series rear panhard to centre the rear wheels, they offset to the right by 3/4".

 

[watrob]

I also installed some 3"x3" led floods in the standard holes of the ARB bulbar, then sealed with a black gloss silicone.

 

[watrob]

I also replace the 80 series diesel front coil springs I used with a set from a later model 80 which had a petrol engine in it. Also now happy with lift & stance. Also the bulbar level to chassis, chassis levels to body are perfect, as is the radiator & engine levels.

 

[cult45]

G'day watrob. Been watching and following this thread for a while. My questions are regarding the front suspension. Have you had it fully articulated? Have the coils scrubbed on the frame or the tyre? I only ask because I am trying to decide whether or not to retain a 40 axle on my coil sprung project or go to a wider 60 axle to gain a few inches in there. Also, what diameter is an 80 coil? Nice build, I wish I had your time.
- Dan

 

[watrob]

I have had no problems, but make sure you get your measurements right, also use the oem 80 series springs, they are narrower at the base which clears the top of the knuckle bolts?

Or, you could buy a RJ70 chassis (Bundera) which has coil springs all round, ready to go and bolt your 40 tub on that, save a lot of work?

By placing the 80 series suspension on you gain about 3" in the wheel base, about 1 & 3/4" in the front and 1 & 1/4 in the rear, centres the rear axle in the wheel arch nicely.

 

[cult45]

Ok mate, thanks very much. Mine is a 45 so a Bundy frame won't suit. I think I'll be using 60 series axles as I believe they're an inch or so wider each side. But your feedback has given me more confidence to pull the trigger. Thanks mate.

 

[watrob]

Finally finished off all the smaller items, gauges and switches now all installed.

Also added pre air filter as the beach sand gets into everything?

 

[watrob]

Also installed the new set of front coils which has dropped the front down by an inch, so caster is now close to +3.0 degrees.

 

[watrob]

As the temps are getting into the 30 deg C range I fitted a canvas top for the Summer months?

 

[watrob]

So my wheel base ended up being 125mm longer than a standard 40's, that's around a 5" increase.

PS. I pulled the rear diff out also and recalibrated the Lokka as it was slipping out of lock to easily.

 

[watrob]

So had a good day of testing on Sunday on the beach, full tide with lots of deep & rutted fluffy soft sand. With all wheels locked the 40 will drive thru the sand in third gear, whereas the 2H was getting pushed hard in second.

Am very surprised with Harrop/Eaton E-locker in the front as it steers quite well, thought it would pull straight but it doesn't. Aslo axle hop or bouncing from start in the deep sand did not occur whereas with the leaf springs you had to be careful, with coils it seems to be putting the power down a lot better.

The braking is improved also, the leaf chassis seem to lock the rears up on the beach (both chassis have 4 wheel disc brakes) but the coil chassis brakes hard & straight

The 12HT is pretty much sorted, seems to be getting a little stronger each time we add a few miles on it, economy, will be the next thing I need to check out.

But I have to admit that overall its now very nice to drive since I sorted the caster, and with 5" added to the wheel base the coils are working well. The steering is very smooth and fairly direct, with the added bearing in the base on the steering column and the rag joint there is still plenty of feeling in the steering system.

I put an EXTRA heavy duty clutch in as I was a little worried about the torque of the 12HT and having all 4 wheels locked, I think on the next build I will just go with a heavy duty one.

So the final test will be over the Christmas break to see how it goes at full tide pulling a 478kg jet-ski up hill over the sand dune cuttings?

 

[SuperBuickGuy]

nice work, even though I may have said a bad word or two when you commented about 30 degrees... it didn't make 30 degrees F here.

 

[gpfj40]

What brand of fender flares are on your cruiser? I’ve been looking for front flare options for my project to help cover a bit of the 4+ inches if tire I have sticking out past the fenders.

 

[watrob]

It's just the standard rubber flare you buy and cut to suit the length, Oz-East Fibreglass in Noosa actually make a 4" wider guard to suite the 40, I would go with that. as m

My wheels due to the type alloy wheels used only protrude 1 & a half inches on each side.