4 wire trailer plug and play kit (1 Viewer)

[Graniteone]

Good stuff... Taking notes, subscribed.

 

[Gretsch]

hey man do you have a picture of where the ground wire connects actually to the lights?

I don’t believe my lights have the provision for a ground back there. It is just the turn signal and the running light, brake light

So my lights are maybe a bit different than yours and do have a ground lead. Using some LED lights which are mounted using a rubber grommet, so the case itself can't ground to the frame:

Luckily they provide a dedicated ground lead which I tie into the ground lead extended from the front of the trailer. These lights are a three lead setup for stop/turn, tail, and ground. Not sure which lights you have but guessing they are grounded internal to the light housing or a mounting stud if you open them up. As @Seth S mentions here, sometimes paint gets in the way of good contact on the frame. Seems silly but I chased this down for several hours one time on a different trailer I had and learned my lesson then. Lights would work, thought I had them fixed, then stop. That was the end of frame grounds for me. I don't have a photo of it now and sold the trailer but it had lights that grounded internal with no ground lead. Something like this:

It had mounting brackets which mounted it to the side of the trailer which provided ground through the trailer frame. The above photo shows a ground wire but mine didn't have it and if you opened the light up you would see the mounting studs were what provided ground for the light the way it was built.. For those I simply ran my extended ground wire and tied it direct to the studs mounting the light to the bracket using a ring terminal, bypassing the trailer frame and any possibility of paint getting in the way of grounding the light. Would depend on how your lights themselves are grounded internally to decide what you would need to do. Not sure if grounding is your issue here but its wasted a lot of my time in the past. As others have said, make sure you get signal all the way back to your lights. You have a photo of one of your lights we could see?

 

[Tennessee80]

So my lights are maybe a bit different than yours and do have a ground lead. Using some LED lights which are mounted using a rubber grommet, so the case itself can't ground to the frame:

View attachment 2363783
View attachment 2363777
View attachment 2363781View attachment 2363780

Luckily they provide a dedicated ground lead which I tie into the ground lead extended from the front of the trailer. These lights are a three lead setup for stop/turn, tail, and ground. Not sure which lights you have but guessing they are grounded internal to the light housing or a mounting stud if you open them up. As @Seth S mentions here, sometimes paint gets in the way of good contact on the frame. Seems silly but I chased this down for several hours one time on a different trailer I had and learned my lesson then. Lights would work, thought I had them fixed, then stop. That was the end of frame grounds for me. I don't have a photo of it now and sold the trailer but it had lights that grounded internal with no ground lead. Something like this:

View attachment 2363784

It had mounting brackets which mounted it to the side of the trailer which provided ground through the trailer frame. The above photo shows a ground wire but mine didn't have it and if you opened the light up you would see the mounting studs were what provided ground for the light the way it was built.. For those I simply ran my extended ground wire and tied it direct to the studs mounting the light to the bracket using a ring terminal, bypassing the trailer frame and any possibility of paint getting in the way of grounding the light. Would depend on how your lights themselves are grounded internally to decide what you would need to do. Not sure if grounding is your issue here but its wasted a lot of my time in the past. As others have said, make sure you get signal all the way back to your lights. You have a photo of one of your lights we could see?

Great info man! The second photo looks exactly like the light that I have. I got it from tractor supply, and even though it is brand new, I can only get the running lights and brake lights to work. The turn signals do not flash. The truck has a turn light signal coming out of the plug, which I tested on a volt meter

I may need to get some lights like you have so that I can run the ground all the way independently of the frame

Thanks for the great writeup!

 

[Gretsch]

I can only get the running lights and brake lights to work. The turn signals do not flash.

So they don't flash for either side? In that case I am not sure its a grounding issue. Without seeing your actual light, the ground should be common for all functions. If stop and tail work, then turn should work as well at least from a grounding perspective. If you are using a standard 4 flat connector then the stop and turn lights use the same lead per side. If stop works, then it should show that lead is working, ground is working, and the turn should work. AFAIK the bulb would be good too if stop works.

Always start with a DMM at 12v in these situations. Test the pins, then the lead at the bulbs, then the bulbs themselves.

I would check this myself. I guess if it were me I would take the lens off and make sure I get the same signal you see at the plug, back at the light itself. Maybe get one of those 4 flat test lights like this and see what you get:

TowSmart LED Light Tester-1486 - The Home Depot

Are you using the powered version of the Japanese converter at the truck, or the non-powered version? Maybe the stock flasher on the truck is un-able to drive the additional load of both the truck turn lights and the trailer turn lights? Works fine for just the stock lights but when you add in the extra load of the trailer lights, it doesn't have the power. I got the powered version on mine just for this very reason. Testing at the trailer lights might tell you this. Just a thought.

 

[joebattle1]

I did end up getting my lil Hilux all wired up, just like the 60. I ripped all of the old trailer wiring out and re did it all with bare wire and connectors directly from the tail lights. No aftermarket booster or anything.

My only issue now is I need to wire in a regular 4 pin plug. My current set up is a 7 pin that's totally custom for this trailer and this trailer only.

 

[portlandcruiser]

Thanks for posting this. I installed the kit yesterday and it went smoothly. Opted to leave the wiring inside where the plug can be kept in the side panel with the jack and tool kit when not in use.

 

[franklin40]

I did end up getting my lil Hilux all wired up, just like the 60. I ripped all of the old trailer wiring out and re did it all with bare wire and connectors directly from the tail lights. No aftermarket booster or anything.

My only issue now is I need to wire in a regular 4 pin plug. My current set up is a 7 pin that's totally custom for this trailer and this trailer only.

View attachment 2364955

View attachment 2364954

if you’ve already wired it for a 7 wire plug just get one of these! i just put it in last night myself. it does all the 4 pin wiring for you! it’s a hopkins 7 pin plug with a separate 4 pin plug there is a universal wiring kit you get that plugs into it that wires up to the 7 wires you’ve already set up. both plugs run off of the 7 wires in the harness so you don’t have to run two sets of wires.

i’ve got a similar set up to you. my military trailer has the 7 pin but most of my others are just 4 pin

 

[BrewmasterH]

Never having a 60 series I can't compare the plugs on 62 series to those for the tail lights of 60 series. Do these use the same plugs? Used one of the Hopkins kit to replace the bad OEM converter in 3rd generation 4Runner.I rewired it so the converter was on the driver's side like the OEM converter. On which side does the converter go on the Tacoma kit?

So, I can confirm this harness works on the 62s. I wired mine up today. The main difference is the wire color on the 62 series. I found the wiring from the harness to the light housing was different. My truck is stock, so I don't know if this is normal, but below is what I found for wire colors. Using a paper clip, you can make a tool to remove the stays on the Hopkins harness connectors, then, each wire is held in by a clip in the connector itself. I used a small flathead to release while I had my wife or son pull the wire out. It really almost requires two people.

FJ62 body // Driver side light // Hopkins
Green // red/green // Brown is running lights
Green/black // Green/yellow // Yellow is left signal
Green/white // green/white // red is brake lights
Red/black // red/blue // is reverse light
White/black // white/black is ground

FJ62 Body // Passenger // Hopkins
Green/yellow // green/yellow // green is right signal
Other colors should be similar to driver side, and don't matter for the Hopkins plug and play harness.
Hope this helps someone.

 

[Living in the Past]

So, I can confirm this harness works on the 62s. I wired mine up today. The main difference is the wire color on the 62 series. I found the wiring from the harness to the light housing was different. My truck is stock, so I don't know if this is normal, but below is what I found for wire colors. Using a paper clip, you can make a tool to remove the stays on the Hopkins harness connectors, then, each wire is held in by a clip in the connector itself. I used a small flathead to release while I had my wife or son pull the wire out. It really almost requires two people.

FJ62 body // Driver side light // Hopkins
Green // red/green // Brown is running lights
Green/black // Green/yellow // Yellow is left signal
Green/white // green/white // red is brake lights
Red/black // red/blue // is reverse light
White/black // white/black is ground

FJ62 Body // Passenger // Hopkins
Green/yellow // green/yellow // green is right signal
Other colors should be similar to driver side, and don't matter for the Hopkins plug and play harness.
Hope this helps someone.

Can't remember what I all did but have installed this kit years ago. A couple of years ago picked up a set of tail lights with both ends of the plugs. At some point with make a n adapter to fit between the harness and the light. Those will solder and shrink tape all the connections. The kit has certainly made a difference. No more dim tail lights. Probably go LED lamps in the trailer at some point. The light gauge wire used for the cruisers tail lights nice to have the load off the factory wiring.

 

[Tennessee80]

I know this thread is for a 60 series, but what have people done for a fj40 to get a 4 pin trailer plug to work?

 

[Jhitch31]

Hello! I installed that Hopkins 43315 recently and thought i followed all the directions from here but have a problem. When I turn on my headlights, in the rear left, the yellow light lights up. The right rear, the red light turns on.

When I press the brake the left yellow stays on and the red right gets brighter. Before digging into this and trying to figure it out, does anyone know what they are actually doing and can tell me what wires need to be fixed? This is all hard for me to wrap my head around. Thanks!

 

[taoofbean]

Just chiming in here years later to say thank you, this thread and all the commentary was great. If I have anything to add, it is that the getting the wires out of the plugs is obscenely difficult and infuriating, particularly if you had a beer. But if you sober up, have good lighting, the process can instead take just mere minutes and only mild swearing.

Using a dental like pick set, I used two, one bent pick and one straight:

1. Pull the yellow plastic guards from each plug with the bent pick by working back and forth with each side until you snap the yellow guards free.
2. Using a straight pick, go in from the front of the plug, not the back, and pry up the small plastic gate that is holding the pin in place,
3. while at the exact same moment holding the wire that is plugged into it from the rear quite firmly.
4. It is almost for me the same motion, pry up, then gently firmly pull wire out back with left hand. Pull too soon and you will lock the plastic down.

If you try to do this process from the rear of the plug it can take hours and an obscene amount of swearing.

@Jhitch31 you likely figured it out right away but you just swapped the wrong wires around on the driver side plug. Hopefully you figured it all out.

 

[ChaserFJ60]

To whom it may concern, I offer ready to install plug and play Heavy Duty wire harness's on my shop. I only use high temp GXL wire cut to size specifically for the FJ60/62. For basic usage there is absolutely no wire cutting required, it comes with a step by step installation manual.
More details in the link below

FJ60-62 Plug & Play Trailer Wire Harness [Back Order]

FJ60 fj62 FJ Toyota Land Cruiser Trailer towing wire loom harness plug and play cruiser head tow vehicle lights turn signal brake CURT Powered inverter GXL wire heavy duty

cruiserhead.com

 

[Hamachi]

Very good information gentlemen!
Now that it’s almost 2024, can you guys report back on how your trailer kits are holding up?
I need to do this this weekend..

Cheers!