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hey man do you have a picture of where the ground wire connects actually to the lights?
I don’t believe my lights have the provision for a ground back there. It is just the turn signal and the running light, brake light
So my lights are maybe a bit different than yours and do have a ground lead. Using some LED lights which are mounted using a rubber grommet, so the case itself can't ground to the frame:
View attachment 2363783
View attachment 2363777
View attachment 2363781View attachment 2363780
Luckily they provide a dedicated ground lead which I tie into the ground lead extended from the front of the trailer. These lights are a three lead setup for stop/turn, tail, and ground. Not sure which lights you have but guessing they are grounded internal to the light housing or a mounting stud if you open them up. As @Seth S mentions here, sometimes paint gets in the way of good contact on the frame. Seems silly but I chased this down for several hours one time on a different trailer I had and learned my lesson then. Lights would work, thought I had them fixed, then stop. That was the end of frame grounds for me. I don't have a photo of it now and sold the trailer but it had lights that grounded internal with no ground lead. Something like this:
View attachment 2363784
It had mounting brackets which mounted it to the side of the trailer which provided ground through the trailer frame. The above photo shows a ground wire but mine didn't have it and if you opened the light up you would see the mounting studs were what provided ground for the light the way it was built.. For those I simply ran my extended ground wire and tied it direct to the studs mounting the light to the bracket using a ring terminal, bypassing the trailer frame and any possibility of paint getting in the way of grounding the light. Would depend on how your lights themselves are grounded internally to decide what you would need to do. Not sure if grounding is your issue here but its wasted a lot of my time in the past. As others have said, make sure you get signal all the way back to your lights. You have a photo of one of your lights we could see?
I can only get the running lights and brake lights to work. The turn signals do not flash.
Always start with a DMM at 12v in these situations. Test the pins, then the lead at the bulbs, then the bulbs themselves.
I did end up getting my lil Hilux all wired up, just like the 60. I ripped all of the old trailer wiring out and re did it all with bare wire and connectors directly from the tail lights. No aftermarket booster or anything.
My only issue now is I need to wire in a regular 4 pin plug. My current set up is a 7 pin that's totally custom for this trailer and this trailer only.
View attachment 2364955
So, I can confirm this harness works on the 62s. I wired mine up today. The main difference is the wire color on the 62 series. I found the wiring from the harness to the light housing was different. My truck is stock, so I don't know if this is normal, but below is what I found for wire colors. Using a paper clip, you can make a tool to remove the stays on the Hopkins harness connectors, then, each wire is held in by a clip in the connector itself. I used a small flathead to release while I had my wife or son pull the wire out. It really almost requires two people.Never having a 60 series I can't compare the plugs on 62 series to those for the tail lights of 60 series. Do these use the same plugs? Used one of the Hopkins kit to replace the bad OEM converter in 3rd generation 4Runner.I rewired it so the converter was on the driver's side like the OEM converter. On which side does the converter go on the Tacoma kit?
So, I can confirm this harness works on the 62s. I wired mine up today. The main difference is the wire color on the 62 series. I found the wiring from the harness to the light housing was different. My truck is stock, so I don't know if this is normal, but below is what I found for wire colors. Using a paper clip, you can make a tool to remove the stays on the Hopkins harness connectors, then, each wire is held in by a clip in the connector itself. I used a small flathead to release while I had my wife or son pull the wire out. It really almost requires two people.
FJ62 body // Driver side light // Hopkins
Green // red/green // Brown is running lights
Green/black // Green/yellow // Yellow is left signal
Green/white // green/white // red is brake lights
Red/black // red/blue // is reverse light
White/black // white/black is ground
FJ62 Body // Passenger // Hopkins
Green/yellow // green/yellow // green is right signal
Other colors should be similar to driver side, and don't matter for the Hopkins plug and play harness.
Hope this helps someone.