4 Speed Manual Performance with 33/10.5 BFG AT?? (1 Viewer)

[RogerThat]

At this point its hard to say. My experience with my 60 and hills is very limited and I might not be the best person to ask about that. I took it to Colorado last year, and have to say it sucked on the hills. I am sure the 33's didn't help, but I think my experience had much more to do with the altitude than the tires. Thing was completely gutless on Raton Pass or climbing into the San Juans for example. But in its defense I was pulling a Bantam trailer as well.

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I think with some tuning and timing advance it would have been much better. Mine is desmogged and was missing the HAC setup at the time so theres that. Not sure what altitude you are at there, but if your truck runs well there now, I don't think it would be an issue with the 33's. I guess at this point in my time with this truck, if I flat couldn't run the 33's with the way its set up, I would prolly move on to something else. I just accept its limitations, and love it for what it is. If its slow on the hills, then its just gonna be slow on the hills. But its gonna look great doing it. These are slow trucks, period, and they have many more flaws than anything 33's would do to them. The 31's prolly are the safer choice for hills. But I guess I would caution against going with something you really don't want. If the 33's are your thing, then they will work fine. And if they are slow, then just enjoy the extra drive time in your cruiser. HTH.

Super clean cruiser! All great points and advice. I'm a slow driver regardless of the car, so speed isn't a concern. I like the 'grandpa speed' these rigs provide, especially in a casual second gear on dirt roads in the mountains. Either way, I'm sure it's going to be fun to drive. Now I just need to pull the trigger.

 

[HemiAlex]

Great looking rig! Love the look of those tall and skinny tires- you make some great points about drivability.

I guess I'm going to show my true noob side here.. I liked the idea of staying stock, which is why I hadn't thought to move to a 16" tire. Would this require a lift of any sort? I'm assuming your rig isn't stock suspension?

I have a full set of 2018 4-Runner tires that are 17″ diameter, 7″ width and I'm fairly certain the bolt pattern is the same. I just figured at this size I'd likely have to get a lift to make it fit. Not particularly interested in lifting it at this point.

Im lifted, but I’m sure there are a ton of tires like a 235/85-16 that would fit easily. Ive heard of people running 33x9.5 back in the day in stock trucks and having no issues.

Those wheels may not fit with adapters.

 

[RogerThat]

Just to close this out, wen't with the 33's and I'm stoked!

As far as performance, It's only a small noticeable difference on initial start, but not a bid deal at all. I love the cruise speed now and overall it feels like the right move. I haven't made it to any steep hills yet so we will see how that is.

One weird thing though. This morning when I released the e-brake, the brake light stayed on. It lowered in intensity by about 30% and gets brighter if I pull the e-brake. This didn't happen before the tires and I didn't remember seeing it yesterday when I was driving it home from the tire shop.

I know initially, the first time I pulled out of the tire shop, there was some clanking happening - turns out the weights they used to balence the tire were to thick and were hitting on something. Not sure what but I my need to crawl under and inspect.

Anyone ever have any issues with the break light staying on after new tires?

 

[Cincodemustache]

Glad you put the big meats on! Check your brake fluid reservoir...the brake light on the dash will also indicate if fluid level is low.

 

[Gretsch]

Right move for sure. Looks great!! Enjoy it.

 

[brian]

Just to close this out, wen't with the 33's and I'm stoked!

As far as performance, It's only a small noticeable difference on initial start, but not a bid deal at all. I love the cruise speed now and overall it feels like the right move.

of course you are!!
these have enough torque to swing 33s with the 370s, and be quite happy doing it.
too many people boo hoo this move.

 

[RogerThat]

One thing I forgot to ask - the tire shop said the stock tires were 1/2 to narrow to put the 33's on but I see them on stocks all the time? Luckily I had a set for snow tires in the back of my rig so I had them put on those instead. Is this just a matter of the tire shop not going below a specific suggested minimum, but they would in fact work?

 

[brian]

they will work. major shops dont like mounting them, a mom&pop shop will be much more willing to mount them.

 

[RogerThat]

they will work. major shops dont like mounting them, a mom&pop shop will be much more willing to mount them.

I thought that was the case. Thanks!

 

[Cruzerman]

These are slow trucks and I don't mind at all. However, I personally didn't care for 33's with stock gears. Luckily, there is a pretty easy fix. Get yourself a pair of 3rd members out of a FJ62 and you will change the diffs from 3;70 to 4:11. Makes up nicely for the larger tires. And I did it for pretty cheap too. I think I bought the used diffs for like $400 for the pair. That was years ago, and like everything in life, YMMV.

 

[wngrog]

The best mod for a stock 60 is 33” tires.

Period.

The rubber overdrive is money.

I run a slightly modified 1984 that just loves true 33’s with H42 and 3.70s

 

[Godwin]

One weird thing though. This morning when I released the e-brake, the brake light stayed on. It lowered in intensity by about 30% and gets brighter if I pull the e-brake. This didn't happen before the tires and I didn't remember seeing it yesterday when I was driving it home from the tire shop.

I know initially, the first time I pulled out of the tire shop, there was some clanking happening - turns out the weights they used to balence the tire were to thick and were hitting on something. Not sure what but I my need to crawl under and inspect.

Anyone ever have any issues with the break light staying on after new tires?

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On the brake light, make sure the handle is fully released and lowered. Pop the hood and check fluid level in the master cylinder. New tires have nothing to do with the brake light function.

If tire weights were used on the inside of the wheels they may have been hitting the tie rod ends and ripping up the rubber boots or the weights could become dislodged.

 

[RogerThat]

On the brake light, make sure the handle is fully released and lowered. Pop the hood and check fluid level in the master cylinder. New tires have nothing to do with the brake light function.

If tire weights were used on the inside of the wheels they may have been hitting the tie rod ends and ripping up the rubber boots or the weights could become dislodged.

They were in fact hitting the tie rod ends and the boots appear to be ripped open. I had them put slimmer weights on and they no longer are hitting.

How much of a priority does it become to fix the boots on the tie rods? Is this a critical fix that would become more expensive if pushed off over other upgrades and tune ups?

 

[Godwin]

They were in fact hitting the tie rod ends and the boots appear to be ripped open. I had them put slimmer weights on and they no longer are hitting.

How much of a priority does it become to fix the boots on the tie rods? Is this a critical fix that would become more expensive if pushed off over other upgrades and tune ups?

Doubtful the actual tie rod ends were damaged. The rubber boots contain and protect the grease for the tie rod end and being torn will allow contaminants to contact the ball and socket of the tie rod end. A fix could be as simple as slathering silicone on the rubber boot or if that is too redneck then replace the boot (this is the better option).

 

[brian]

To answer the question.....how long do you wish to run with torn boots?