3FE refresh - doing a reboot on my '92 (1 Viewer)

[Aggiesdm]

Stronger?

Hey Jason,

Does she feel noticeably different than before or is it mainly confidence that you gained?

 

[LC8pilot]

Hey Jason,

Does she feel noticeably different than before or is it mainly confidence that you gained?

You have a PM inbound!

 

[M32H32is]

CC me on that PM

 

[Copenhagen1]

getting pretty edgy with me at this point. This project has run WAY over time and budget. Speaking of budget, had to do something that I always hate doing - had to open the gun safe. Grabbed a nice little S&W J-frame that hasn't gotten used in a couple years and took it to my local toy store to put on the block. Cha-CHING!! Back in business $$$$ Button-up mode commencing! After I got the rocker arm assembly back on, I tackled the valve cover. Used the hi-tack sealant to glue the gasket on and then smeared just the smallest bead of Permatex #2 along the edge. Let it dry for a bit and then wrestled it over the rocker arm/valve 'bolt' at the back. Was tough to get positioned without knocking the gasket out of its groove. Finally got it! Called Beno to order this coolant line/hose assembly. Took a few days to get in from Japan (I think). Apparently, you can't buy just the hoses, have to get the whole thing. Be prepared, Mr. Toyota will require a left nut for this unit... which was okay with me as I wasn't using mine anyway (see comment at top). Frontal view of the nut-robber hose assembly. I guess the pipes are brazed, which is one reason it costs so much. Dizzy back on. Went on pretty easily. Jason

Jason can you pm me the part #(s) for these two hoses/pipes and how much a left nut is worth nowadays? I sold my left one so long ago, I'm not sure what the going rate is currently.

I replaced all my hoses several months ago and tried to just use a napa hose for this. I guess the size is just a shade big. It leaks just a tiny bit under pressure.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[LC8pilot]

Jason can you pm me the part #(s) for these two hoses/pipes and how much a left nut is worth nowadays? I sold my left one so long ago, I'm not sure what the going rate is currently.

I replaced all my hoses several months ago and tried to just use a napa hose for this. I guess the size is just a shade big. It leaks just a tiny bit under pressure.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

PM inbound!

Jason

 

[LC8pilot]

Have been pretty consumed with pre-holiday cheer & whatnot, so not much progress. Truck is running GREAT, though. Going to post some MPGs once I get a couple of tanks worth of data. I'm hoping I'll see a little bump, especially with the fresh valve adjust and cleaned t-body.

I did adjust/tighten the throttle and kick-down cables. They had gotten a lot of slack after being disconnected and hangin free for a couple of weeks. Shifts are much crisper. Very easy check with noticeable benefit!

I'm moving to suspension next (hopefully right after Christmas). I've got a set of fresh factory shocks (with all hardware) and a beefy new TJM steering stabilizer in the garage waiting to go. Hopefully, Santa read my wish list & will drop off a new set of OME standard height springs.
I'm only doing a mild build on this truck. I'm not a rock crawler & really only use the rig to get to camping/exploring/shooting spots. I plan to get some 33x10.50s and maybe a new front bumper (something basic - TJM t-17, maybe?). If money was no object, I'd get some 4.88s installed along with an Aussie in the rear and call it good. We'll see.


Jason

 

[Cadin]

Don't Forget to check the magic screw! (Fuel Dampener)

 

[jonheld]

Truck is running GREAT, though. Going to post some MPGs once I get a couple of tanks worth of data. I'm hoping I'll see a little bump, especially with the fresh valve adjust and cleaned t-body.

Glad you're enjoying her. Getting a 3FE to run the way it was designed to run makes it a fun ride. The valve adjust along with properly sealing up all the accumulated vacuum leaks probably made the most significant difference. Many folks simply ignore the adjustment, but the FSM wants it done every 15K miles for a reason.

As far as the fuel pulsation dampener, if it is in question, it should be replaced as it is calibrated from the factory. It too has a diaphragm that can break down over time. Given it's location, it's not something to screw around with. It's mounted at the rear of the fuel rail right above the exhaust manifold.

 

[Aggiesdm]

Glad you're enjoying her. Getting a 3FE to run the way it was designed to run makes it a fun ride. The valve adjust along with properly sealing up all the accumulated vacuum leaks probably made the most significant difference. Many folks simply ignore the adjustment, but the FSM wants it done every 15K miles for a reason. As far as the fuel pulsation dampener, if it is in question, it should be replaced as it is calibrated from the factory. It too has a diaphragm that can break down over time. Given it's location, it's not something to screw around with. It's mounted at the rear of the fuel rail right above the exhaust manifold.

Jon, do you have the PN# for the pulsation dampener? Is this something that you would recommend replacing? I've heard that there is an adjustment screw that can "back out" over time. Any tips on replacing or adjusting?

 

[LC8pilot]

Glad you're enjoying her. Getting a 3FE to run the way it was designed to run makes it a fun ride. The valve adjust along with properly sealing up all the accumulated vacuum leaks probably made the most significant difference. Many folks simply ignore the adjustment, but the FSM wants it done every 15K miles for a reason.

As far as the fuel pulsation dampener, if it is in question, it should be replaced as it is calibrated from the factory. It too has a diaphragm that can break down over time. Given it's location, it's not something to screw around with. It's mounted at the rear of the fuel rail right above the exhaust manifold.

Thanks Jon. Yeah, I'll probably just leave the pulsation dampener as is. She's running so smoothly that I don't feel the need to touch anything else.

Jason

 

[jonheld]

Jon, do you have the PN# for the pulsation dampener? Is this something that you would recommend replacing? I've heard that there is an adjustment screw that can "back out" over time. Any tips on replacing or adjusting?

I don't have access to part numbers anymore. I have to look them up online like everyone else, or just ask Dan or Onur.

There are 2 devices mounted on the fuel rail that regulate fuel pressure. The fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is vacuum operated from a VSV valve. The FPR is located at the front of the rail. The FPD is sort of a pressurized expansion tank that prevents a sudden drop or spike in fuel rail pressure as the 2 different banks of injectors fire. The FPD is at the rear of the fuel rail.

It is important to note that the ECU does not monitor fuel rail pressure. Its programming is making assumptions based on OEM parts and normal operating parameters. While there are aftermarket FPRs, FPDs, and fuel pumps available, I would not go that route.
There was a thread some time ago where folks were finding the screw under the plastic cover of the FPD backed out and rolling around inside. Some games were played by folks with the position of the set screw, but personally, I'm not sure what that set screw actually does. Since the FPD is an integral part of the fuel delivery system, I opted to replace mine with OEM. The original one looked fine to me, but it was 20 years old.

 

[Aggiesdm]

Thanks Jon for your opinion and apologies to the PO for the hijack. I'm gonna look at mine this evening and make a decision..replace or not?

I looked up the part and seems to be about $30-40. So not too bad.

 

[LC8pilot]

I don't have access to part numbers anymore. I have to look them up online like everyone else, or just ask Dan or Onur.

There are 2 devices mounted on the fuel rail that regulate fuel pressure. The fuel pressure regulator (FPR) is vacuum operated from a VSV valve. The FPR is located at the front of the rail. The FPD is sort of a pressurized expansion tank that prevents a sudden drop or spike in fuel rail pressure as the 2 different banks of injectors fire. The FPD is at the rear of the fuel rail.

It is important to note that the ECU does not monitor fuel rail pressure. Its programming is making assumptions based on OEM parts and normal operating parameters. While there are aftermarket FPRs, FPDs, and fuel pumps available, I would not go that route.
There was a thread some time ago where folks were finding the screw under the plastic cover of the FPD backed out and rolling around inside. Some games were played by folks with the position of the set screw, but personally, I'm not sure what that set screw actually does. Since the FPD is an integral part of the fuel delivery system, I opted to replace mine with OEM. The original one looked fine to me, but it was 20 years old.

Great info. Is the set screw in the pulsation dampener the 'magic screw' or is the idle adjustment screw on front of the intake known as the magic screw? Have wondered about that.

thnx

 

[jonheld]

Great info. Is the set screw in the pulsation dampener the 'magic screw' or is the idle adjustment screw on front of the intake known as the magic screw? Have wondered about that.

thnx

I am not familiar with the term "magic screw". There is the "golden screw" which is the forward facing large gold color flatblade screw that lives on the intake manifold. That has often been mistaken for the idle speed adjust on a 3FE, but it sets the static air intake to the ISC valve. It will have a temporary effect on idle speed until the ECU corrects it by bumping the ISC valve.

 

[jonheld]

Thanks Jon for your opinion and apologies to the PO for the hijack. I'm gonna look at mine this evening and make a decision..replace or not?

I looked up the part and seems to be about $30-40. So not too bad.

Just an FYI, this item is a PITA to replace with everything in the way.
There's a wiring harness that lives at the rear of the intake that needs to be moved to gain access, and I think I had to move the cold start injector fuel line as well.
You'll need a "crows foot" wrench (22mm IIRC, maybe 24. I don't remember).
There are 2 copper washers that should come with the new unit and they are tons of fun to get in the right place when reinstalling. I used a dab of grease to keep them in place.

 

[LC8pilot]

I am not familiar with the term "magic screw". There is the "golden screw" which is the forward facing large gold color flatblade screw that lives on the intake manifold. That has often been mistaken for the idle speed adjust on a 3FE, but it sets the static air intake to the ISC valve. It will have a temporary effect on idle speed until the ECU corrects it by bumping the ISC valve.

Excellent, thanks.

 

[LC8pilot]

So the whole 'refresh' slowed down quite a bit for a couple of months. Life duties & all. Finally ready for another update!

Ever since I got the truck the springs felt super spongy - that, and the original factory shocks were TOAST. Not to mention when I removed the front end bits to replace the cooling system I torched, cut, banged, cussed-at and kicked the factory steering damper off (LOTS of fun that was). So, basically for the past couple of months I've been driving around with shot springs, dead shocks and no steering damper. Baby corners like the USS Carl Vinson! Anyway, called up Slee and had some OME stock height springs ordered up. The springs (and a new headlight wiring harness - stay tuned) set me back about $450 with shipping. I already had a set of factory shocks sitting in the garage that I picked up from CDan down in ABQ months ago. If I remember right, the shocks and all new retainers/washers + 2 new rear shock bolts only cost around $125 (me thinks). Not bad at all as the Toyota shocks are really pretty good IMO. I don't plan on adding lots of heavy armor/drawers/gear etc.. Last piece was a TJM steering stabilizer. Nice unit. Have had that sitting around for awhile, too. IIRC around $100.

Before

All the goods.

Started with the front. Believe it or not, the Hayne's manual is pretty helpful for this job. I also had the FSM and Slee's write up handy. I had soaked all the bolts/brackets in PB Blaster each day for a couple of weeks before hand so things went pretty smoothly. No rust or corrosion to begin with, so I was lucky there. Getting the DS shock off wasn't too bad, just used a quick shot from the torch right on top of the shock bolt & the nut came right off.

 

[Copenhagen1]

Glad to see you back in the game! I am very interested in the headlight harness from Slee. I blew out my high beams a few weeks ago and haven't even done the troubleshooting yet.

 

[Aggiesdm]

Just did the 2.5" TJM lift on mine, but haven't installed their steering damper yet. I don't have a pickle fork needed to get the OEM unit off. Also, how does the new one bolt up without the ball joints? A write up would be great.

 

[LC8pilot]

Glad to see you back in the game! I am very interested in the headlight harness from Slee. I blew out my high beams a few weeks ago and haven't even done the troubleshooting yet.

Thanks! Glad to finally have some extra time to work on her. I'll take lots of pics of the harness install. Looks to be a really well-built unit.