Registry 3FE Owners Check-In (3 Viewers)

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The MAF I ordered was from cruiserparts..works great.

I also ordered an IAC from them and it came non functioning. Super frustrating spending spending 350 on one that doesn’t work..I ended up getting lucky and finding a spare off a parts vehicle where I’m located. But now I own 3 IAC valves..

The TPS I ordered new from Toyota part #89452-14050 and calibrating it per the fsm made a world of difference.
I mean to say AFM, not MAF
 
Here is a pic of the 90amp alternator installed. =)
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Marco Lau, I was wondering what voltage you're alternator is outputting at idle in gear. I just installed the same unit from VintageTeqParts and it seems to be under performing at idle with any kind of additional load. i.e. headlights, heater on low, brake pressed, turn signal

Thank you
 
Marco Lau, I was wondering what voltage you're alternator is outputting at idle in gear. I just installed the same unit from VintageTeqParts and it seems to be under performing at idle with any kind of additional load. i.e. headlights, heater on low, brake pressed, turn signal

Thank you
Mine idles around 13.6-13.8 in gear with headlight and a 12v fridge running. It bumps up to around 14.1-14.2 above 2k rpm.
 
Mine idles around 13.6-13.8 in gear with headlight and a 12v fridge running. It bumps up to around 14.1-14.2 above 2k rpm.
Thank you. What does your LC idle at in park and in gear. I feel like I'm idling a little low. (about 630-640 in park and about 600 in gear) Above 2000 rpm I get 14.0-14.1v which seems about right. Warmed up and in gear at a stop light with headlights, brakes on, turn signal on, and heater fan on one It can go as low as 12.3v. What do you guys think? Battery tests good,
 
Thank you. What does your LC idle at in park and in gear. I feel like I'm idling a little low. (about 630-640 in park and about 600 in gear) Above 2000 rpm I get 14.0-14.1v which seems about right. Warmed up and in gear at a stop light with headlights, brakes on, turn signal on, and heater fan on one It can go as low as 12.3v. What do you guys think? Battery tests good,
It idles @ around 650 rpm in gear and a bit more in N and P. If you are getting 14 v above 2000 rpm, i wouldnt worry about it. Your idle might be a bit low, might be some vacuum leak?
 
It idles @ around 650 rpm in gear and a bit more in N and P. If you are getting 14 v above 2000 rpm, i wouldnt worry about it. Your idle might be a bit low, might be some vacuum leak?
Yeah. I’ll go over vacuum this weekend. Gotta get those rpm’s up a bit. Seems like 50 rpm’s can make a huge difference with the alternator.
 
Looked at it today. Can’t seem to find any vacuum leaks. Still having the issue. If I raise the rpm a bit by hand (around 650 in gear), alternator charges how I think it should. Hopefully I’ll be able to mess with it more this weekend.
What is your timing? You can advance it a bit to raise the rpm
 
What is your timing? You can advance it a bit to raise the rpm
I believe around 7 degrees (within factory spec). Maybe I'll bump it up a tiny bit. Do you have any issues with CA smog having it above factory specs? I may not get to it this weekend but I will continue to give updates. thank you
 
I believe around 7 degrees (within factory spec). Maybe I'll bump it up a tiny bit. Do you have any issues with CA smog having it above factory specs? I may not get to it this weekend but I will continue to give updates. thank you

You can just loosen the bolt on the distributor and rotate it CC. to advance timing a bit. You will notice the RPM will increase a bit as well. This is how to adjust timing on the 3FE and no problem with SMOG that i am aware of. Also the golden screw on the intake manifold can be adjusted slightly, check the screw setting. It should be 1/4 to 1/8th turn from fully close.
 
You can just loosen the bolt on the distributor and rotate it CC. to advance timing a bit. You will notice the RPM will increase a bit as well. This is how to adjust timing on the 3FE and no problem with SMOG that i am aware of. Also the golden screw on the intake manifold can be adjusted slightly, check the screw setting. It should be 1/4 to 1/8th turn from fully close.
Do i need to jumper the diagnostic box before or just go ahead and advance while its running and fully warm (without jumpering) ?
 
Do i need to jumper the diagnostic box before or just go ahead and advance while its running and fully warm (without jumpering) ?
You don't need to jump the diagnostic box. Just advance while the motor is running and you can feel the RPM increase. Mark the location of the bolt hole in relations to the slot for reference before making the adjustment. you only need to advance timing slightly to get the RPM up.
 
Not much longer now ….

This is a FJ80 3FE specific only set up …

Im running 2 OEM NipponDenso pumps that have a higher PSI and volume spec. then the original factory installed ones

I’m including a refresh / repair OEM grey female connector w / extra terminals too ,

The rear washer pump is of course plug and play

I did make the pigtail about 2-3” inches longer for a ease of swap out and a forgiveness factor too


Silver Violet Plated #8 mark heads highest salt spray rating SEMS double. washers mounting bolts too..

I decided in addition to our SNOW VERSION decal , a retro bow to a 3FE equipped FJ62 washer bottle decal adorns the top of the tank to remind all there is a 3FE history topic here too 😎




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Whoa. Where did you get that washer tank? Does it fit a 3FE truck?
 
Whoa. Where did you get that washer tank? Does it fit a 3FE truck?


YES ,

it ONLY fits a FJ80 3FE truck exclusively

that set up above with the 2 washer pumps i hand assemble with ALL JAPAN spec. OEM , genuine NipponDenso parts

the front washer pump is 36% more powerful the the original one , im using a non-usa pump meant to service front and rear

its truly a SNOW VERSION set up heavy duty and tough as nails ...


plug ans play all mounting hardware included and NO MODS ! :cool:



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Looked at it today. Can’t seem to find any vacuum leaks. Still having the issue. If I raise the rpm a bit by hand (around 650 in gear), alternator charges how I think it should. Hopefully I’ll be able to mess with it more this weekend.
Oh I forgot to mention take a hand pump vacuum gauge to the metal vacuum lines under the throttle body and air intake. Chances are they're clogged from rust. Diaconnect the hoses and apply vac to one side of the tube, if vac does NOT rise then the metal tube is clear. I’ve already had two of mine get rusty and clog up over time.

Heres the link for timing per FSM and i painted a white dot under the mark on the fly wheel because I'm not Gumby Timing Adjustment for a 3FE Motor - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/timing-adjustment-for-a-3fe-motor.90392/

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MORE to come shortly ......


note : make sure you click the volume audio ON and turn it all the way up ....

the is a
3FE FJ80 EXCLUSIVE new product release exciting moment .....:)







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I’ve tried searching but I can’t find what the bsvs purpose is on the 3fe? I understand it’s just a temperature vacuum switch but what is it controlling?
 
I’ve tried searching but I can’t find what the bsvs purpose is on the 3fe? I understand it’s just a temperature vacuum switch but what is it controlling?

Only run OEM on this one or you will be freaked out when ur temp idiot gauge goes 3/4 of the way up ALL the time. Dont ask me how i know and dont mess with aftermarket on this one
 

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