3FE 90 amp alternator sanity check (1 Viewer)

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Godwin said:
@red66toy Grinding out the outer contact zone on the motor mount will not affect alignment of the pulley?
Click to expand...
So the grinding was on the back wall. This was done to move the alternator back so the front ear (which dictates the belt alignment) sits flush against the front bracket wall. This way you have the correct belt alignment and both ears sit flush against the bracket walls to avoid cracking.

Grinding the back ear on the alternator also accomplishes the same goal, just a different method. :)

26716045299_79c1c692e0_c.jpg
 
mct75 said:
So is that actually a motor mount or is it just a bracket? I thought about removing mine but I don't want to drop my 3F-E on the driveway!
Click to expand...
Yeah, the back part is the engine mount, and the front part is the alternator bracket. Dual purpose. I am going to support the engine from underneath (oil pan and a piece of wood to spread the load) and then swap out the brackets.
 
Super crude diagram to illustrate the issue with the inner wall the alternator sits against. The front ear is prevented from sitting flush against the face of the front wall because the rear ear hits the face of the inner rear wall that is sloped. I ground this slope flat (red triangle) to allow the alternator to move back into the correct position. Alternator represented in green and mounting bracket is blue.
26729613389_a25aa806d6_b.jpg
 
Mostly installed. Need to finish up a couple other things related to my radiator swap, but its in there :)
24991424598_71e7a424fe_c.jpg
 
Very nice! Is the front belt engaging the water pump at all? On mine it looks like going from alternator to PS pump would end up with the belt skipping over the water pump pulley. I don't have a belt on the front alternator pulley at all.
 
mct75 said:
Very nice! Is the front belt engaging the water pump at all? On mine it looks like going from alternator to PS pump would end up with the belt skipping over the water pump pulley. I don't have a belt on the front alternator pulley at all.
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No, it goes from the ps pump, air pump, alternator, then crankshaft pulley. Water pump only has one belt on it.
 
red66toy said:
No, it goes from the ps pump, air pump, alternator, then crankshaft pulley. Water pump only has one belt on it.
Click to expand...

Cool! When PO bypassed my air pump, he ran a belt from the crank to the water pump and to the PS pump.

I'm still getting a little voltage dip at idle when I have the headlights and blowers on which is saddening. Bumping up the idle to ~750 makes everything perfect. I'd like to get a smaller pulley for the alt but that seems like a can of worms unless there's a cross-compatible one from another vehicle that could be had for cheap.
 
check your fuse links, ground connections and harness in general. as resistance in the harness builds, you get more voltage drop with a load...
 
mct75 said:
Cool! When PO bypassed my air pump, he ran a belt from the crank to the water pump and to the PS pump.

I'm still getting a little voltage dip at idle when I have the headlights and blowers on which is saddening. Bumping up the idle to ~750 makes everything perfect. I'd like to get a smaller pulley for the alt but that seems like a can of worms unless there's a cross-compatible one from another vehicle that could be had for cheap.
Click to expand...

Have you upgraded your 3 main grounds yet? That's the first thing I'd do. At least 4awg.
 
As soon as I buy a hydraulic wire crimper I plan on going to town on the "Big 3."

I also suspect that my battery is old and clapped out. All it takes is some money!
 
a hammer, chisel and bit of angle iron work for crimping battery cable lugs...
 
red66toy said:
So the grinding was on the back wall. This was done to move the alternator back so the front ear (which dictates the belt alignment) sits flush against the front bracket wall. This way you have the correct belt alignment and both ears sit flush against the bracket walls to avoid cracking.

Grinding the back ear on the alternator also accomplishes the same goal, just a different method. :)

26716045299_79c1c692e0_c.jpg
Click to expand...
I too got the 210-0177 because that is what everyone was telling me I should get to replace my bad alternator. Now looking at doing the same with mine. Was it needed to grind out that much material from the bracket? Any other tips would be helpfully. Thanks
 
I ground out more than I needed to forward of the rear mounting ear (by the case 06B marks). I mounted the alternator in the bracket and kept grinding away until it mounted flush and had enough side to side movement so you could adjust the belt correctly. It took some time with my Dremel and hand files but not too bad. It was worth it to modify the mounting bracket vs the alternator mounting ear in my opinion because now if the alternator craps out somewhere I can swap another in and not worry about having to modify the alternator mounting ear.
 
red66toy said:
I ground out more than I needed to forward of the rear mounting ear (by the case 06B marks). I mounted the alternator in the bracket and kept grinding away until it mounted flush and had enough side to side movement so you could adjust the belt correctly. It took some time with my Dremel and hand files but not too bad. It was worth it to modify the mounting bracket vs the alternator mounting ear in my opinion because now if the alternator craps out somewhere I can swap another in and not worry about having to modify the alternator mounting ear.
Click to expand...
What bit did you use on your drumel tool to cut away that metal?
 
DUNCRZR said:
What bit did you use on your drumel tool to cut away that metal?
Click to expand...
The best bit with the Dremel was a burr grinder bit. You can get them in different shapes. That helped clear metal much faster. Then I used hand files for final smoothing or minor metal removal.
 
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