3B diaphragm replacement (1 Viewer)

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.....but its a little hard to tell if the seal is perfect or not.................


:hmm:

It might be best to suck on a separate (cleaner & longer) bit of "clear-tube" (for hygeine reasons and to enable you to get in a more comfortable position).

.....Which reminds me of an Email Joe Egolf just sent me showing what happened to a cow that got its head stuck under the lowest rung in a fence (trying to get greener grass on the other side):

NotEveryoneMayBeThereActuallyToHelpYou.jpg


Then, using your mouth only, draw a vacuum and put your tongue against the end of the tube.

At this point, provided your diaphragm and chamber are air-tight, you should be be able to feel the vacuum trying to suck your tongue into the tubing. (Takes about 1 to 2 seconds to do!)

If that vacuum (against your tongue) disappears (when you stop sucking) ---- you know you have a problem.

Simple as that!

:cheers:

By the way - Based on how loose those screws were - You may have solved both problems now :clap:
NotEveryoneMayBeThereActuallyToHelpYou.jpg
 
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Latest: I noticed that my Idle increases when the temp goes up.
Also, I tried the Vacuum via sucking on clean clear sanitary hose - much easier, but the vacuum does not hold - it leaks off in 2-3 seconds. I tested this with a gauge - sort of jury rigged it, but it got the pint across that the vacuum won't hold. I guess its time for a new Governor Diaphragm.:doh:

If changing the old out for a new is as tricky as trying to tighten the 4 slotted screws on the cover then it will be a tedious job. WHY did they go with slotted screws? I may have to find some more easy to work on replacements... 7mm.

Thanks very much for the help:cheers:

Funny pic by the way!
 
......... I guess its time for a new Governor Diaphragm.:doh:

If changing the old out for a new is as tricky as trying to tighten the 4 slotted screws on the cover then it will be a tedious job. WHY did they go with slotted screws? I may have to find some more easy to work on replacements... 7mm. .............

Well the diaphragms are not very expensive and they should be replaced automatically as part of regular maintenance.

So you have nothing to lose by changing it. On the contrary - changing-it has a good chance of eliminating your idling problem.

(And lots has already been said about the access difficulties so I won't add to that.)

:cheers:
 
Just finished replacing the original rack diaphram on my '84 BJ60 (3B), it lasted 25 years and 420,000km. The diaphram leather was still intact (although a bit stretched and very soft), but had a small tear starting on one side that would have been an issue sooner rather than later. Glad I took it out though, as the cotter pin fell apart when removed, lots of rattle wear I guess.... The idle has dropped about 100 rpm and we'll see how she feels when I take her out for a run tomorrow.
Not a particularly comfortable job to do in situ, but MUCH easier than replacing the heater core (that I had to do 2 weeks ago!)....
Ya gotta love these trucks!!! A quarter century of daily driving and it's still going strong, thanks to simple K.I.S.S. engineering!
 
Thanks for posting the pix and the writeup lynchmob, I was able to diagnose source and repair my injection pump because of this thread. I have seen part numbers on another thread but wanted to post a pic of the box with part number for folks who have 3B's. Really intresting to see an internal engine part made with animal hide.

Took about 1 1/2 hr with the EDIC motor removed. I used just a dab of RTV to glue the lockwasher and nut for the 8MM bolt together to make getting it back on easier. I was so used to the high idle that I thought something was wrong when I started her up for the first time after the repair!
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So stupid question... It seemed that that spring on the outside of the diapragh is pretty stiff against the diaphragm... is the vacuum enough to move against that thing?

Kraig
 
another use for that neetsfoot oil is put a bit on a rag and wipe over your leather work boots, makes em last 3 times longer :D
makes it worthwhile buying the stuff from a saddlery
 
Just replaced the diaphragm on my 2h, wow what a difference it makes (cuts fuel consumption in half) :D. This was a fairly straight forward job took me about 45 mins.

Points to note when doing the job:

  • Rip the outer part of the old diaphragm off, gives easier access
  • Take the split pin and washer off, don't bother with the lock nut
  • place a rag underneath the diaphragm to catch either the washer or the pin, they are guaranteed to fall off:bang: (I've included a foto showing this)
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Thanks all for the help, great thread.

My dumb question still remains however; what is a good source for the Denso Diaphragm?

Cheers!
 
I got a stock toyota one from my dealer for the same price as anywhere lese (with shipping included).

It lasted 29 years the first time!

K
 
Available at US Dealer?

Thanks for the reply, although I was under the impression that a US dealer wouldn't stock (or have means of ordering) parts for vehicles that were never in the US market.

I have found one at 4wheelauto for about $50 but with shipping from Canada it turns out to be more along the lines of $70.

Sounds people are paying less than that on average.

Any suggestions?

I apologize for the ignorance, but I am new to the cruiser community and brand new to diesel tech.

Cheers
 
X2 on the US source? I'm looking for one and have read that people are getting them for 25 to 35 bucks.
 
Thanks for the reply, although I was under the impression that a US dealer wouldn't stock (or have means of ordering) parts for vehicles that were never in the US market.

Not correct. They won't have access to the parts catalog, and they will have limited ability to order some parts, but they can get them. I just ordered a whole slew of parts for my 2LT-E from CDan today. When the dealer says they "can't" it really means that they "don't want to."

Dan
 
Yup Dan is correctamundo. I got mine for around $40 from the dealer. I have a good guy that will look beyond 'That's a bad number, sorry'.

Getting the EPC and getting PNs yourself helps a LOT with ordering from the dealer.
 
Any reputable diesel injection service shop should be able to get the diaphragm by the Denso part number in this thread. Probably cheaper than the dealer. Its not a unique part to Toyota or the 3B.

Try these guys if you cant find someone local

Welcome to DFISPDX.com
 
Thanks guys! I'm going to order one today.
 
Gotta get my lips Where ??

Good thread.

I hope that was a Cow and a Bull ;)
 
Appreciate the feedback. I suppose I will pay my dealer a visit and not leave until I have one coming my way.
 
My Diaphram tips.

My truck ran OK but I was having smoke issues. Injectors were rebuilt recently so I looked at the diaphram. Pulled the vacume hose and tested it for vacume.... nothing. Nothing at all. I sucked on the hose and too my amazement it was like sucking through a straw. Diaphram must be f*cked.

-Removed EDIC (3x 10mm (head bolts) and wires and actuator rod)
- removed hose
-Removed 4 flat head screws
-BJ60 guys... I raised the hood to the max with a broom handle. this allowed me to JUST see the cotter pin with my face shoved up against the vacume booster and the hood. (so fun)
-Remove pin and washer. (magnatizing tools helps here as my cotter pin broke and fell)
-re install the diaphram the right way up. (tab down)
-re install washer then pin and bend pin making sure the pin ends cant reach the diaphram and tear it. I cut new small cotter pin down even shorter and bent it over. No contact issues.

After the install... Truck is much more responsive! No Smoke! Haven't started it cold yet but I hope that improves as well.

Hope this helps someone. This thread was a big help.

Cam
 
lostmarbles your a wealth of knowledge on these old tojos cheers for the info you`ve added here top stuff hopefully its why me truck just started idling @ 900rpm`s , i was kind of hoping the big heap of goop i dumped out of the water trap may fix it but nup on to the diaphram cheers champs
 

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