3B diaphragm replacement

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so i did fix my problem. i changed

intake manifold gasket
throttle body gasket
all the rubber hoses with very tight hose clamps

cheers and good luck
 
our mechanic tested the diaphragm by pluging the venturi (as shown on the pic) with his finger...then the idling went to normal, from very high..he was hesitant to open that part since injector problems here in manila are normally taken cared of by specialty shops doing only injector pumps..i told him to open it anyway we will be bringing it to the shop, so lets experiment first...and we did..as a result we only spent 1/10 of what it would cost if we brought it to the shop..the only problem is he forgot to put back the washer at the cotter pin side...i can put it back myself but it will not be easy, the space is too tight...since it doesnt look like it will cause any problem i guess i will just leave it like that
 
iskoC190 said:
i can put it back myself but it will not be easy, the space is too tight...since it doesnt look like it will cause any problem i guess i will just leave it like that
Click to expand...

You can do it!! i did ;-)
 
Tried this little unit from lordco...:popcorn:

Seem to cycle properly...

Took a good bit of force to get it onto the shaft.

Rob
fuel pump 60 014.jpg
fuel pump 60 017.jpg
 
Took out the diaphragm out and did some more cycling, it does make a slight contact on lower part of pin..

.070 wire with overall length of 1.25 inches, would be nice to find a smaller pin with same wire thickness.

Rob
 
Hi all.
Great thread. Gave me the info needed to perform the work myself.
My problem was a fast idle and when it hit 2000+ RPM it was obvious that I needed to do something.
I replaced the diaphragm and the idle on my BJ70 is back to 700 RPM.

Denso has the part. Just looked up http://densoheavyduty.com/where-to-buy/state I call a service center and had the part next day.
As my TLC is quite old I was adverse to removing anything I absolutely did not have to move. I could do the job today in about 30 minutes now that I know how. No need to remove the pump nor the EDIC. Just remove the EDIC arm. It pops off.

I just removed the plastic vacuum pipe (from the diaphragm), moved the wiring out of the way, popt off the EDIC arm and then removed the screws holding the diaphragm cover on. Used a short length of wire to pull the cotter pin out once I straightened it.
tools used.jpg
Used needle nose pliers to straighten the cotter pin (tried 10 minutes from the side then used the needle nose pliers going at it from under the diaphragm cover and that took 20 seconds or less).

On reassembly decided to use an R-clip R_Clip.JPG instead of the worn cotter pin, used allen head cap screws instead of the slotted screws. I could not find a store bought R-clip of the right size so bent up some stainless steel wire from my parts bin and the whole thing went back together in about 15 minutes. Used a rag under the IP so that when I dropped something I did not have to look too far to find it. Replacing the washer on the diaphragm was the most time consuming part of the process.
 
Just did my second one of these on a rig RedLine has at their shop... Besides fighting a poorly installed cotter pin, the whole thing took 15 minutes. The owner had adjusted the fuel down so much to get the egts down, we couldn't even keep it idling without three or four full turns on the fuel load screw. Even after upping the fuel it was barely putting 250 degrees on the pyro. :-) I love it when plan comes together.
 
lostmarbles said:
Here's the photo that I couldn't post last night. I'm sure there must be other suitable photos on MUD (showing those tubes) but I went to Watrob's build thread because I remembered he was fitting a diesel and did some good photography.

attachment.php

:cheers:


PS. Of course Watrob's engine is a 6 cylinder 2H.

We know that my "B" 4-cyl diesel has its tubes crossed and that Big Blue's "3B" doesn't. Anybody out there able to say what the "2B" engine's tubes do? And is this "tubes crossed" or "tubes uncrossed" feature specific to the engine models or does it even vary within the same engine model? - Just interested - That's all..............
Click to expand...
You may have already found an answer to this, but my hoses don't cross on my 2B.

ImageUploadedByIH8MUD Forum1417409109.958027.jpg
 
Wes said:
You may have already found an answer to this, but my hoses don't cross on my 2B.

View attachment 999852
Click to expand...

Thanks Wes..

I now think "crossed tubes" was a "pre-August 1980" design feature of B engines (and perhaps H engines too) and that Toyota then rotated the intake venturi assembly 90 degrees (so the butterfly valve pivot axis changed from being aligned left-right to being aligned front-rear) and this of course moved the hose connections too so the tubes no longer needed to cross.

:)
 
What colour smoke does a bad diaphragm cause? Some have reported black smoke while others say it's white smoke. Which one is it?
 
It'll depend on throttle, turbo, injector health and pump settings... Mine blew white at idle but black at load...
 
hi guys , when I bought mine 42 the diaphragm was broken and the car smoke White ( a lot of White smoke) when trottle was released like Down the hill make use of engine brake....

I was impressed of how much the 42 smoked , and another symptom was the hight rpm idle

I fixed with yours help , thnk's

I removed the housing and i don't took out the arm , i removed the pin , discharged the oil from the I.P. and then I installed the new diaphragm

cheers
 
Just did this repair on my BJ60 and was able to get easy access as I'm just wrapping up a restoration and the fenders aren't on yet!

My symptoms were blue smoke when wheeling (warm and under load) as well as increasingly higher rpm's at idle.

Looking forward to flashing it back up and seeing how much of a difference this made.

Points of note for others doing this job:
- The housing does not sit completely into the body...it's sealed but there is a slight gap. Apparently this is normal.
- Dimple on outer metal part of diaphragm indicates downward positioning when installing.
- You will have a new respect for dentists if you use a mirror and needle nose pliers to accomplish this task ;-)

Thanks for the info on this thread!

IMG_3930.jpg


IMG_3929.jpg
 
How easy is it to pull the diaphragm out of the IP just enough to remove the 8mm nut? My example seems to be pretty stuck and will not separate easily. I didn't want to pierce the diaphragm with a screw driver until I know if my experience is normal or not.

Thanks
 
bjhoudini, I honestly took one look at that 8mm nut, and thinking along the same lines as you with not wanting to cut the diaphragm just yet, I opted to remove the cotterpin and washer from the opposite side instead because it seemed too cramped to get a wrench in there!

You'll want to have an automotive mirror (slim and extendable) as well as a small magnetic something or other to make sure you don't drop either the cotterpin or washer into the IP.

Perhaps I lucked out, but it seemed easy enough outside of the fact that I had to think oppositely whilst looking at the mirror and attempting to grab the cotterpin with needlenose pliers and straighten it enough to pull it through the hole.

Good luck!
 
micdon said:
Holy cr*p.....

just did a search for the diaphragm... found in the states
Pneumatic Governor Diaphragm 78-90 [22303-47010] - $100.42 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts 100,42 dollar

and found one in Germany...
DTP Motorteile GmbH 8,33 euro = 9,36 dollar

For the 91,06 dollar, I think I'll order the german one and teach it to speak english...

And as ALWAYS thanks a lot Tom also for the oildrain thread. I'm sure this is going to fix my idling issue

:beer:
Click to expand...


Hey Micdon, did you order that German one? I'm looking into the same...
 
I would recommend getting yourself a few pairs of hemostats and an extra cotter pin. Also, a magnetic tipped probe to prevent the loss of the washer helped me a lot.
 
Mateo H said:
Hey Micdon, did you order that German one? I'm looking into the same...
Click to expand...

yes I did. I don't thing it's an actual denso part, but it fits right and looks right.
 
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