I went with the TWF recentered, 4"bs with the flat centers. I had to add spacers to the front because the centers hit the caliper. I still need to "try" and get them somewhat balanced. Death wobble at ~35mph
37" military OZ tires (1 Viewer)
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I went with the TWF recentered, 4"bs with the flat centers. I had to add spacers to the front because the centers hit the caliper. I still need to "try" and get them somewhat balanced. Death wobble at ~35mph
Good luck - everything I've read - including aussie red-neck's experience on this thread - says that flat centers are not good for street use cause you can't get them to balance out.
I have been struggling with the balancing on a set of the TWF recentered h1's with the pressed centers for a couple of weeks now. they look good, but the wobble at 35 is terrible. I made the mistake of just throwing the airsoft beads in the first time I mounted them and didn't realize that some of the tires have runflat grease that causes the beads to clump up. After talking to Andy at Trailworthy I broke the tires down, cleaned out the grease and measured out how many beads it took to balance each tire on a bubble balancer and they are worse than before. Now that I have the balancer I am going to pull the beads and try stick on weights.
This thread is a mix of "they work great" and "I cant get them balanced". This is discouraging specially since I am getting ready to pull the trigger on 37s.
I've noticed most (all?) of the can't get them balanced are on re-centered hummer rims. Or are grooved. Just an observation.
Mine that I bought, I threw on the 16.5 cheapo rims from 4wd or wherever I got them. The rims are not recentered - and the tires are not Grooved, and the only balancing they have are me using the cheapo harbor frieght digi scale and some airsoft bb's.
And they are fine down the road to 65-70 in my mall rig when I am not running the 38's....
I will ad, that this rig has had alot of suspension mods, is not aligned properly, and I get no death wobble, no shake, nothing.
My opinion would be either the grooved tires, the re centered rims...
And they are fine down the road to 65-70 in my mall rig when I am not running the 38's....
I will ad, that this rig has had alot of suspension mods, is not aligned properly, and I get no death wobble, no shake, nothing.
My opinion would be either the grooved tires, the re centered rims...
I agree with the assumption that it's the recentered wheels. There are a lot of variables that can add up to throwing the wheel to far out of balance,
-the welded centers
-how centered is the tire when installed on the rim
-How ballanced is the double bead lock PVC insert
-The welded rock ring
I have not attampted to take mine to a tire shop to see if the "out of balance" can be reduced to and accaptable level for daily driving. Has anyone had any luck balancing a recented h1 wheel?
I plan on moving my front DS wheel to the rear to see if the problem is less or more. If less, I'll move the front PS to the rear to see what happens.
I'll try to remedy the issue before cutting my losses and sell 'em.
Successfully
cessfully
-the welded centers
-how centered is the tire when installed on the rim
-How ballanced is the double bead lock PVC insert
-The welded rock ring
I have not attampted to take mine to a tire shop to see if the "out of balance" can be reduced to and accaptable level for daily driving. Has anyone had any luck balancing a recented h1 wheel?
I plan on moving my front DS wheel to the rear to see if the problem is less or more. If less, I'll move the front PS to the rear to see what happens.
I'll try to remedy the issue before cutting my losses and sell 'em.
Successfully
cessfully
I am getting close to having mine balanced, I think it is actually a bad tire and not the rims. I moved the front driver tire to the rear today and the steering wobble went away but the rear shakes now. That tire was delivered with several cuts/chunks in the sidewall and I am hoping Trailworthy will replace it along with another one that had the outer lugs worn down all the way. I spun the bad tire on the front axle and could see the line on the sidewall wiggling up and down.
I would move the front tires to the back one at a time to see if you could isolate the problem to a single bad wheel or tire. Once you find it you might try breaking it down and spinning the tire 180 degrees on the rim.
I would move the front tires to the back one at a time to see if you could isolate the problem to a single bad wheel or tire. Once you find it you might try breaking it down and spinning the tire 180 degrees on the rim.
anyone have a source for these 37's? i want a set for road tires
So - i went with the 4wparts steelie 16.5s and mounted up the 37s with no weights-no beads.
There is a very slight wobble at 45 that disappears pretty quick---then ran em up to 80 and they were fine.
showed em to a buddy who ran them in the military on hummers and he right off the bat noticed my one rear tire wasnt mounted directionally like the other tires. duh.! one look and it was pretty obvious the center treads are directional. Im going to have that one swapped in a bit and will report back if its the culprit of the slight shimmy.
of note:
- these ride ALOT quieter than my BFG mts.......slightly more noise than my Toyo ATs.
- they measure out to 36.5 unloaded-which i was pretty psyched about since id really like a true 36 for running 2.5" lift.
- mounting- they are really tough to seat according to my installer who "didnt like" how they were sitting. Hes pretty anal-and tried another method and got them seated how he liked. So for anyone with wobbles--double check that the seating is perfect. On these 4wp steelies---the fit according to him was "really tight".
i will be hitting the dirt this weekend and will report back. So far tho--the narrow 12.5" width feels real similar to the 295Toyo Ats i was running before. I have yet to do any camber/caster adjustments and its not terribly squirrely....but a slight difference possibly due to weight when at highway speeds.
There is a very slight wobble at 45 that disappears pretty quick---then ran em up to 80 and they were fine.
showed em to a buddy who ran them in the military on hummers and he right off the bat noticed my one rear tire wasnt mounted directionally like the other tires. duh.! one look and it was pretty obvious the center treads are directional. Im going to have that one swapped in a bit and will report back if its the culprit of the slight shimmy.
of note:
- these ride ALOT quieter than my BFG mts.......slightly more noise than my Toyo ATs.
- they measure out to 36.5 unloaded-which i was pretty psyched about since id really like a true 36 for running 2.5" lift.
- mounting- they are really tough to seat according to my installer who "didnt like" how they were sitting. Hes pretty anal-and tried another method and got them seated how he liked. So for anyone with wobbles--double check that the seating is perfect. On these 4wp steelies---the fit according to him was "really tight".
i will be hitting the dirt this weekend and will report back. So far tho--the narrow 12.5" width feels real similar to the 295Toyo Ats i was running before. I have yet to do any camber/caster adjustments and its not terribly squirrely....but a slight difference possibly due to weight when at highway speeds.
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So how wide is the rim that you're running. You have the truck that I want. Right now I have a 2" and 35s. I want to bump to 37s.
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- #252
Trail Worthy Fab
This thread makes me happy I bought my 16.5" wheels not so long ago...
Polar Bear
Is it supposed to sound like that?
Bugsnbikes- what BS and rim width did you go with for those 4WP wheels? Seems like a trouble free way to go about this.
The reason people are going with the re centered h1's is the fact they can add the inserts for bead locking. If that was not in the equation then there would be no reason to go with the re centered wheels and you could go with regular steel wheels.
4" backspacing on those from 4wp. I was doing some stuff tests to measure for Fox 2.0s yesterday and they tucked nicely inside the wells front and rear. Im about to throw on some Landtank extended LCAs in the rear which should really center things up in back.
Once the longer 10" Fox2.0s go on--- i will post some stuff pics and see where/when inner wheelwelll contact is made and how much bumpstopping is needed with the Fox/OME 2.5 med.combo. The Fox's are two weeks out----but my buddy at FOX says they can throw on a stem/stem OEM from factory for fronts.......and stem/eye for the rear.......so they will be a bolt on affair.
my bad- its 16.5x 8.25 IIRC apparently they come in both flat black (which they were out of) and gloss black--which i settle with. Rattle can may be in order.
2" should work with 37"s IF you are running light--and throw on some 1" spacers up front to level things out. (unless you like stinkbuggin of course).
What i havent heard much about is factoring in weight to the lift equation. A heavy rig on Frankies 3.5" lift is overall no taller than a stock rig on OME 2.5 low lifts. I think my ome 2.5 med/spacers probably runs comparable height to a heavier rig on OME heavy 4" due to the amount of sag generated from the added weight of a heavy 6000+lb rig.
The 37 militarys are really not a true 37................i got 36.5" on a unloaded tire...............and 36" installed on the rig. So given their 12.5" skinny profile--a lighter rig on 2" lift should work easily. If you are more rockcrawling centric----then obviously a few inches more lift or spacing from there would give a bit better result in the rocks. However-COG wise you are sacrificing if you are more expedition oriented and value steep angled traversing etc. Imho-- going up to a 37" and any lift should be coupled with some added width to compensate for COG changes. 4"bs is about minimum to consider and if you really value stability.......3.5" would be even better if you can live with the "lowrider" looks of your junk sticking out.
Once i get everything installed - im planning do some "FLOP" tests with a winch bolted to a house or something and measure exact spillover angles with a few of the spacers ive got on my rig vs. my buddies stock rig (not sure he will find this fun) Hes got 1 stocker rig---and one on 33s.....so will be using stock/33/37s for comparisons with varying width and heights. My goal is to see if i can quantify how much this lift vs width is compared to stock...............and adjust accordingly. I also want to throw on 120lbs or RTT weight just to see how much of an angle difference it really makes with regards to flopping your rig.
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Yep, the tires really neck down at the bead compared to alot of tires. I know I wouldn't want to run 9.75" width, though normally on a 12.5" tire you're looking at 8-10" rim width. I went with 8.25, and you have to get the bead to come up about 2" or so from when there is no air it it to get it to seat on my 8.25". I'd be half tempted to try them on 6.75"
Whos getting the new baja ta's?? I am really on the line about getting military tires. If I do I will get the twf bad ass wheels with them. I just cant make up my mind if I want to.
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- #260
I'm thinking about it, but some very large cheap tires for my 16" rims just popped into my radar also.... either way I will have new tires on the rig by friday.
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