But if the trim packs are taped to one another (and to the top of the spring) they cannot slip, they cannot come unseated, so...........the risk is?????????
35's?
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But if the trim packs are taped to one another (and to the top of the spring) they cannot slip, they cannot come unseated, so...........the risk is?????????
John,
you nered to stop asking people here you wont listen to, and go do some research of your own, your own road of discovery.
Come back with some sensible questions whn you have some more of an idea.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
So you put your life in the hands of duct tape? Have you see duct tape after 4 weeks in an outside environment. I hope you are at least using 100 mph Gorrila Tape.
So you put your life in the hands of duct tape? Have you see duct tape after 4 weeks in an outside environment. I hope you are at least using 100 mph Gorrila Tape.
Life in what hands? I wheeled the 80 for 4 years before selling it. The packers were wrapped in electrical tape. Since the top of the spring could not unseat there was no way for thr packs to move. Where's the danger?
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
The top of the tape sits between the packer and the metal seat of the spring. Eventually it will wear and break. I think I have pointed out the danger. I said you will most likely not roll the truck, but bad things can happen.
Also I can guarantee you those packers can move. There is nothing that keeps them seated. The cone inside the spring is tapered. The further away you are from the base of the cone, the more space there is between the cone and the packer. So there is nothing, other than the little bit of tape holding it in place. Stack a bunch of washers between your thumb and finger, now rub your fingers around. 1 washer will probably not fall out if you rub your fingers, now stack two, probably still ok, now stack three and see how long the center one stays put.
OK....so you're saying IF a 10mm trim pack sneaks out between the spring and the spring-top the vehicle can roll and/or is dangerous? If it slipped little by little and then spit out, the spring would instantly seat on the remaining surface. In fact, most of the spring would already be in contact with the remaing surface/packer because the slipping packer would slide out to one side little by little. The spring's not coming out. I don't see this danger. Worst case scenario....one side of your truck drops by 10mm until you fix.
Have you EVER heard of a vehicle collision or rollover due to a slipped trim pack?
We looked at this option intensely before doing it on the '93. You started me with 15mm atop an 863 and a year later I went to 25mm. There was no way they were coming out. They never did and it was my dedicated wheeler.
Now...on a 100's stock spring and with 30mm? Yes, I can see why one should watch them should they try it. On an interim basis...I see no risk though I have not done it.
If I had to do it again, I would not run the 35's BEFORE I regear. (I do run 35’s MT with 4:88)
But what the Heck do I know: after all I’ve been wheeling the 100 for short 9 years.
With all the “strong” opinions out there, this is more entertaining then informative.
But what the Heck do I know: after all I’ve been wheeling the 100 for short 9 years.
With all the “strong” opinions out there, this is more entertaining then informative.
I have seen 30mm of spring spacer break, and pop the spring out the side, rubbing through the sidewall of the tyre.
As muxh as the top wont move, if the spring can move up, the bottom will sure fall out.
Just because you havent seen it John, dont sassume its 100% ok, when you dont know any better.
As muxh as the top wont move, if the spring can move up, the bottom will sure fall out.
Just because you havent seen it John, dont sassume its 100% ok, when you dont know any better.
Just another shotts thread......................
Ya, I know the hurt you were in. Dual tanks, roof rack, drawers, front and rear bumpers, FULLY loaded for trips into Mexico. After all, you made the first Expo 100-series. Scott and I felt your pain. I think you'll remember that I was the one who told you the guys now had a 4.88 solution? You did it AND made the OEM locker lights light like on an 80-series. WOW!
The other interesting fact about your 100 is that is was heavier than any other out there, it was used through the deep sand and on tough trails....AND IT WAS A '99 AND IT DIDN'T BREAK A FRONT DIFF. The diff issue is quite the puzzler. If anybody would bust one one would think it be you. Thank God it never did....and in Baja!
In our experience, drivers break more cruisers, than cruisers do.
- Thread starter
- #55
Ok, All Stop... I have read about 20 posts about the yes and no's of duct tape. Thank you all for hashing that about, but I would never use duct tape on my truck. Sorry John, I read your entire build up about 3 months ago and enjoyed it. However I know these other guys know their stuff, and one helped you build your 100, so I respect what they say as well. I appreciate everyones commentary, good or not so good.
I think I still want to concentrate on the gears and lockers first, to provide a good base to build everything else. 4.88 gears, and ARB lockers front and rear. From what I have read, adding the ARB set ups to the diffs will increase strength, so that is one big thing I have in mind with that.
Second, a mild lift, with 35" mud tires. What was it Toyos? Not the 33x12.5 but the metric ones mentioned earlier sound good. I'd like to keep my 18" wheels to keep from adding another expense. I'll have to look those up. My rig will be the one we take on long trips to the middle of no-where, so I want to build everything solid, and correct and no short cuts. I just want enough lift to avoid tire rub, and get some decent clearance.
After gears/lockers/tires/lift, I can then add things as we can afford to. ARB bumper, rear Kaymar bumper, roof rack, roof tent, etc. It's is a long and expensive process. My wife is not working, and she has two more years of university before she does. I expect this build up will take about 3 years or more. I appreciate ALL the advise, and all the knowledge given so freely from you. Thank you from myself and my wife.
PS- How can I get one of those "Land Cruiser" decals on the hoods of the Australian 100's? I saw it in the ARB catalog (the truck with the decal on the front of the hood).
I think I still want to concentrate on the gears and lockers first, to provide a good base to build everything else. 4.88 gears, and ARB lockers front and rear. From what I have read, adding the ARB set ups to the diffs will increase strength, so that is one big thing I have in mind with that.
Second, a mild lift, with 35" mud tires. What was it Toyos? Not the 33x12.5 but the metric ones mentioned earlier sound good. I'd like to keep my 18" wheels to keep from adding another expense. I'll have to look those up. My rig will be the one we take on long trips to the middle of no-where, so I want to build everything solid, and correct and no short cuts. I just want enough lift to avoid tire rub, and get some decent clearance.
After gears/lockers/tires/lift, I can then add things as we can afford to. ARB bumper, rear Kaymar bumper, roof rack, roof tent, etc. It's is a long and expensive process. My wife is not working, and she has two more years of university before she does. I expect this build up will take about 3 years or more. I appreciate ALL the advise, and all the knowledge given so freely from you. Thank you from myself and my wife.
PS- How can I get one of those "Land Cruiser" decals on the hoods of the Australian 100's? I saw it in the ARB catalog (the truck with the decal on the front of the hood).
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got a pic?
can post one out to you, or through Christo no problem, just need to get the right one.
can post one out to you, or through Christo no problem, just need to get the right one.
- Thread starter
- #57
It's on the hood of the 100 series they feature in the ARB catalog I have. It's the red catalog which also has a yellow FJC inside as well. Just let me know the cost and I'll take care of it. Thank you!
PS- You can see the picture on page 18, and again on page 50 of the catalog. Page 50 and 51 are the two pages with all the 100 series add ons.
PS- You can see the picture on page 18, and again on page 50 of the catalog. Page 50 and 51 are the two pages with all the 100 series add ons.
sleeoffroad
Supporting Vendor
The only thing that you have to be aware of is that you pretty much have to max out the possible front suspension lift to accommodate 35" tires. Also, depending on tire width some of the MT tires on 18" wheels will not clear the front A-arms without spacers. Spacers get it away from the A-arm, but then you run into the fender lip and rear wheel well rubbing.
That's where the 10-12mm body lift comes into play (you already know that though). Relatively easy and cheap way to fix the rubbing issue.
thats why we are trying a 5.5" backspace wheel at the moment, should fit into both the outer, and inner, all are 18" dia, and we are using 35 x 12.5 / 18 tyres.
We have been using lexus copies, which were 10mm different to factory cruiser offset, which helped, but didnt fix the a arm rub 100% on hard lock.
We also have Fox Shox on this truck, and we can pretty much go to 90mm lift, and keep the right amount of down travel with these shocks, though a slightly different design diff drop so as not to reduce ground clearance would be good to have with it.
like this one on 35's and 18" lexus copies.
We have been using lexus copies, which were 10mm different to factory cruiser offset, which helped, but didnt fix the a arm rub 100% on hard lock.
We also have Fox Shox on this truck, and we can pretty much go to 90mm lift, and keep the right amount of down travel with these shocks, though a slightly different design diff drop so as not to reduce ground clearance would be good to have with it.
like this one on 35's and 18" lexus copies.
