35's? (1 Viewer)

[dclee]

But if the trim packs are taped to one another (and to the top of the spring) they cannot slip, they cannot come unseated, so...........the risk is?????????

Holy s#!t, I can't believe I just read that! We've already established that this guy is no engineer (and if we haven't, that post just did it!).

I hope it's at least military 100MPH tape he's using, and that I never wheel (or drive) anywhere in the vicinity of this guy! (I don't plan to.) The last thing I need is his ghetto spacer'd suspension coming apart when I'm next to him on the road!

BTW, back to tech, ARB itself specifically does not recommend more than 20 mm. of packers on any one coil. I think they know what they are talking about (liability issues aside).

 

[dclee]

Have you EVER heard of a vehicle collision or rollover due to a slipped trim pack?

Reading is FUNdamental. Who ever said it would roll? Christo said specifically that it probably would NOT roll, but I agree that it's never a good idea to have loose suspension pieces on your three ton truck. You'd think that would be self-evident...

 

[gearguywb]

This has been entertaining but as another guy with a 100 that would like to run 35's can we please get back to the real question? I bought an OME lift and T-bars (thanks Christo) and have been running them with Revo33's and it works great. The future mods include regearing and front (at least ) locker. So to run 35's with minimal problems.....is the body lift and 3/4" wheel spacers the way to go?
Thanks guys!

 

[sleeoffroad]

Gearguywb, if you are going to regear you need to do front and rear lockers otherwise you are going to end up spending a lot of extra money twice.

Yes, the body lift is the way to go from all accounts, we have not one one, but I can see the benefits. Also tire and wheel combination plays a big roll. I have 325/60/18's Nitto Terrgraplers on Lexus wheels and they rub the A-arms. With 1.5" spacers they rub the back of the wheelwell where the pinchweld is behind the plastic. We have heated the plastic and pushed it back as far as we can. I do have a set of 1" spacers, but I have not tried them yet.

 

[gearguywb]

Sounds good Christo...and I think I will need to bite the bullet and have the lockers and gearing done for both front and rear. I am currently running the stock 18" wheels but am looking for a set of 16's to use for the 35's.
Thanks for the info!

 

[sleeoffroad]

Not sure if you are aware why the rear needs to be done, but I will give some info in case someone else does not. There is no ring and pinion replacements that is a direct bolt in for the 100 series carrier. So you have to make a 80 series carrier work. Unfortunately this is not a direct swap, since the 100 has 32 spline side gears. So you either mod a ARB to accept 32 spline axles on the Toyota 80 carrier to accept 32 spline axles. It is simply not worth it to do this for a open carrier. So you either put a e-locker in that was modded to 32spline, or an ARB.

 

[spressomon]

Not sure if you are aware why the rear needs to be done, but I will give some info in case someone else does not. There is no ring and pinion replacements that is a direct bolt in for the 100 series carrier. So you have to make a 80 series carrier work. Unfortunately this is not a direct swap, since the 100 has 32 spline side gears. So you either mod a ARB to accept 32 spline axles on the Toyota 80 carrier to accept 32 spline axles. It is simply not worth it to do this for a open carrier. So you either put a e-locker in that was modded to 32spline, or an ARB.

Christo: With the ARB don't you have to purchase two different ARB rear lockers to make this work or do you have a different work around now?

And just an FYI for those 4.88'n: Be sure to plan ahead on your parts ordering. Often there isn't any inventory of the 80's style carrier stateside which might delay up to a month based upon my experience...or not depending upon inventory levels.

 

[hoser]

gearguywb, 4.88's + 35's + 5speed auto would be really nice! Has anybody else done that yet? You might also want a speedo correction box.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Christo: With the ARB don't you have to purchase two different ARB rear lockers to make this work or do you have a different work around now?

You buy a 80 series ARB and some parts from the 100. Then you also machine the caps to have enough space for the axle shafts.

FWIW, we have a 100 series rear e-locker with 5.29's already set up ready for someone. Not sure who would want 5.29's but hey, you never know.

 

[boombapslappy]

Not sure if you are aware why the rear needs to be done, but I will give some info in case someone else does not. There is no ring and pinion replacements that is a direct bolt in for the 100 series carrier. So you have to make a 80 series carrier work. Unfortunately this is not a direct swap, since the 100 has 32 spline side gears. So you either mod a ARB to accept 32 spline axles on the Toyota 80 carrier to accept 32 spline axles. It is simply not worth it to do this for a open carrier. So you either put a e-locker in that was modded to 32spline, or an ARB.

Thanks for doing this...I'm sure there are plenty of us. However, I need the "for dummies" version. I feel stupid asking, but if you have the time could you break this down even further--pretend you're teaching a fourth grader how to re-gear his dad's hundy. Again, sorry for my ignorance.

 

[spressomon]

gearguywb, 4.88's + 35's + 5speed auto would be really nice! Has anybody else done that yet? You might also want a speedo correction box.

I was thinking 4.88's+37" for '03+ would be the ticket...gets you back to near stock final drive ratio.

 

[spressomon]

Thanks for doing this...I'm sure there are plenty of us. However, I need the "for dummies" version. I feel stupid asking, but if you have the time could you break this down even further--pretend you're teaching a fourth grader how to re-gear his dad's hundy. Again, sorry for my ignorance.

100 series use 32-spline axles and the 80 uses 30-spline axles. No one (at least no one offered this in the recent past) makes a ring and pinion set, other than stock ratio...certainly not in 4.88) for the 100. So you need to take the 80-series 4.88 R&P and utilize the 100-series planetary gears (sorry don't know the exact proper term) that essentially connect the inner axle spline to the ring gear...but you also need the 80-series carrier and "hat" to house the 100 series planetary gears that mates to the 80-series ring gear.

Also of note for those putting their parts inventory together for this: When I did mine we got backed up nearly 4-weeks because we needed a shim that was not available in the states...had to wait for inventory to come in to Toyota on this one. If I do this again I would just buy a selection of shims in advance of tearing down so that we'd have them if needed...they're not that expensive in the grand scheme of things and may be able to be returned if not utilized.


Christo or Darren: ?

 

[LandCruisers4Life]

I don't get all that about having to use 80 parts. The ARB catalog is showing a locker for the rear which is made for the 32 spline axles.

Toyota has made 4.88 gears for years, and are you saying there are none for the 100 series? What about this JT fabricator guy who is now making 4.88 gears for the FJC, why not ask them to produce 4.88 gears for the 100 if that's the case?

 

[sleeoffroad]

The ARB for the rear in the 100 will work, but not if you change gear ratio's. Essentially you will be stuck with either 4.30 or 4.10 gear ratio's since those are the only 100 series rear ring and pinions available. Somewhere I posted pics of the 80 and 100 ring gear next to each other. The issue is that the 80 (and the available aftermarket gears) are a bolt and not setup to attach the ring gear to the carrier. The 100 r&p is just a bolt that goes straight into the ring gear.

 

[dclee]

I do have a set of 1" spacers, but I have not tried them yet.

1" is ideally what I've been looking for. I was actually thinking 7/8" to 1" on the rear, 1.25" on the front to balance the track width out after the lift (front track gets narrower as the A-arms are "lowered" for the lift). Thoughts?

 

[dclee]

Christo: With the ARB don't you have to purchase two different ARB rear lockers to make this work or do you have a different work around now?

And just an FYI for those 4.88'n: Be sure to plan ahead on your parts ordering. Often there isn't any inventory of the 80's style carrier stateside which might delay up to a month based upon my experience...or not depending upon inventory levels.

Sean at River City Diffs has now done several of these and is very familiar with the procedure as well as parts needed. When I was looking at doing this, this is the price/parts list I came up with (prices are probably different now):

• OEM ff/rr diff lock rotary switch: $75.00
• fr/rr ARB air lockers: $1,451.00
• 32-spline side gears: $200.00
• ARB HD air line: $100.00
• ARB compact compressor: $159.50
• 4.56 R&P gears, 80 Series full float - front: $227.00
• 4.56 R&P gears, 80 Series full float - rear: $212.50
• R&P install kits: $263.50
• ARB locker install & re-gear service: $575.00 (River City Differentials - $250 per diff if I bring in 3rd members, otherwise $475 front, $325 rear, + $75 to machine case for side gears in any case)

 

[rusty_tlc]

Ok, All Stop... I have read about 20 posts about the yes and no's of duct tape. Thank you all for hashing that about, but I would never use duct tape on my truck. Sorry John, I read your entire build up about 3 months ago and enjoyed it. However I know these other guys know their stuff, and one helped you build your 100, so I respect what they say as well. I appreciate everyones commentary, good or not so good.

I think I still want to concentrate on the gears and lockers first, to provide a good base to build everything else. 4.88 gears, and ARB lockers front and rear. From what I have read, adding the ARB set ups to the diffs will increase strength, so that is one big thing I have in mind with that.

Second, a mild lift, with 35" mud tires. What was it Toyos? Not the 33x12.5 but the metric ones mentioned earlier sound good. I'd like to keep my 18" wheels to keep from adding another expense. I'll have to look those up. My rig will be the one we take on long trips to the middle of no-where, so I want to build everything solid, and correct and no short cuts. I just want enough lift to avoid tire rub, and get some decent clearance.

After gears/lockers/tires/lift, I can then add things as we can afford to. ARB bumper, rear Kaymar bumper, roof rack, roof tent, etc. It's is a long and expensive process. My wife is not working, and she has two more years of university before she does. I expect this build up will take about 3 years or more. I appreciate ALL the advise, and all the knowledge given so freely from you. Thank you from myself and my wife.


PS- How can I get one of those "Land Cruiser" decals on the hoods of the Australian 100's? I saw it in the ARB catalog (the truck with the decal on the front of the hood).

I'm on a budget too, look for deals here and elsewhere on used suspension parts. Lots of us go through an upgrade path, I'm using spressomons old shocks and some OME springs I got use from another guy who did a suspension upgrade. I paid full price for the SLEE drop kit, I ran for a while without it but decided it was worth the price.

I stuck with 285/75-R16 tires because there is no way I would run 35" tires without re-gearing.

When it comes to larger tire fitment issues etc. on the 100 this is the source.

When it comes to gearing for larger tires there is a wealth of information here and on other forums like Pirate. I know it has been discussed to death on the 40 forum as well as the hard core forum, I'm sure they have gone over it on the 60 and 70 forums as well. We aren't breaking any new ground here.

Based on what I've read the consensus seems to be you need to re-gear when you increase your tire size or you will break stuff. It's not if it's when. Since we have no gearing options for the rest of the 100 drive train the differential is the only place to accomplish that. It is also the collective conventional wisdom that this is the best place to correct for increased tire size.

Just thought I'd throw that out there.

 

[Letsgomoreplaces]

regear on 100

As christo said, you must use an 80 series style carrier, wether its open, elocker, or ARB and make it fit 32 spline side gears. This is easy with the elocker, requires machining on the arb, and can be done with open diff. To make things easy we offer complete 3rd members that are ready to bolt in. It is not anything real out of the ordinary (as far as differentials go) to change ratio in a 100, but it does take a few extra parts and cost more. But most things cost more on a 100. For low-cost upgrades, jeeps work pretty well

Thanks for doing this...I'm sure there are plenty of us. However, I need the "for dummies" version. I feel stupid asking, but if you have the time could you break this down even further--pretend you're teaching a fourth grader how to re-gear his dad's hundy. Again, sorry for my ignorance.

 

[spressomon]

1" is ideally what I've been looking for. I was actually thinking 7/8" to 1" on the rear, 1.25" on the front to balance the track width out after the lift (front track gets narrower as the A-arms are "lowered" for the lift). Thoughts?

For me...in a perfect world I would like 3/8" front spacers (assuming clearance to the steering knuckle can be retained) and none in the rear. The biggest issue I have is with spray by from the tires onto the body from my existing 1" being outside the fender area. And at 3" of lift I've never felt I needed to increase the track width to provide enhanced stability due to lift.

 

[rusty_tlc]

For me...in a perfect world I would like 3/8" front spacers (assuming clearance to the steering knuckle can be retained) and none in the rear. The biggest issue I have is with spray by from the tires onto the body from my existing 1" being outside the fender area. And at 3" of lift I've never felt I needed to increase the track width to provide enhanced stability due to lift.

Your worried about your paint?

I guess if I had that much custom pinstriping I'd be concerned too.