35's?

[ShottsUZJ100]

Also advising on spring packers without knowing how the truck is set up and what accessories are on it just doesn't make sense.

Do you not read the threads?

The guy on this thread has a stock suspension, is asking about tires, wants ARB's and maybe gears first, then a lift, etc. So we know his setup and accessories.

Do you think for somebody with my truck I tell them to slap 6 10mm trim packs atop the springs vs an 863 spring swap?

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

What is unsafe about that?

The spring does not come loose or unseat itself because of the length and travel of the shock. There's all kinds of folks out there with 20mm of packs. Adding a third is fine. My '93 had 2 10mm and 1 5mm per spring for 3 years. (That's 3 packs) You only need the tape so you can insert the spring without them falling off. Once in they do not move.

A spring-alone is best though not needed.

Whatcha think is not safe about this?

John,

the part people with very limited mechanical knowledge [or even mechanically bankrupt] dont undertsand is that heavier coil rates and better shocks will help contol the movement that creates the tire rub issues that people see, and taping together packers isnt a long term solution for such a truck, and certainly not recommended.

If you cant see the "unsafe" side, perhaps dont recommend such stuff to people on a blanket canvas as you have done, jusdpost what you did, and if you still have it, or not, let peopl;e make up thier own minds.

Put 35's on a stock suspension 100 with packerts, they rub, firt good control dampers with the required lift, they dont rub, we see it all the time.

We have rims we are using now which are 5.5" offset, and dot rub the a arms, and we have been using lexus 18" rim copies as well, which have a 10mm offset difference to cruiser rims, to run 35 x 12.5 18 tyres, which improve the way the vehicle drives with lift and larger tyres, when done properly.

We also change the rear sway bar mounts to keep the sway bar in its optimum position, and not limit travel either, as wella s use longer shocks, and bump spacers to improve travel and prevent rubbing issues.

You also need to modify the front lump in the mudflap, we normally fold the seam, insert a nutsert, slot the mudflap lump so it slides over itsel, and insert a bolt and washer into the nutsert in the lip to hold the mudflap out of the way.

 

[sleeoffroad]

The trim packs are taped together. They will not separate.
Can you explain how one can get "spit out" if the shock will not allow the spring to unseat (come loose) from the top?

Your magic L shocks make the spring unseat from the top. Remember that is why we added spring retainers to the bottom

Are you saying one can "roll the truck" if a 10 or 20mm packer slips out of the top of the spring? How is that possible?

I said you will NOT likely roll the truck, it is just not something I would do or advocate.

As I said, the spring is the way to go. On a temp basis, in case someone wants tires FIRST, what's wrong with a $100 investment so one can run 35's for some time before they actually select their lift? It's another option for them.....that's all. What if someone wants a factory ride, no suspension change but run 315's? This solution will work for them too (will it not?)

Adding packers to a spring is not the same as replacing with the right spring. Your truck is higher and you have more leverage on the suspension. That is why we never advocate trying to run spacers on OE spring only to gain lift. You can not put spacers on a factory spring and expect a factory ride.

No on measuring. I trust BFG's specs. I'm not interested in running a 35x12.50.

Don't trust everything you read. There is a huge difference between running a tire that measures 34" vs 35". Not internet specs, but actual measurements.

I'm sure I too would be happy with the outcome of 4.88 gearing on my truck. Never said the contrary. Is it worth it to me? No way. To others? Some. To say it's pretty-much required? I think that is misleading.

How do you know it is not worth it to you if you haven't tried it. I do not think you are in a position to advocate whether it is required or not unless you have run a regeared 100. You are putting more strain on your motor, tranny and drivetrain components, even worse when you go off-road. Required might be a strong word, but just because you have done it, doesn't mean it is right. Also, up here, we pretty much consider it to be a requirement due to the power losses.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

John,

the part people with very limited mechanical knowledge [or even mechanically bankrupt] dont undertsand is that heavier coil rates and better shocks will help contol the movement that creates the tire rub issues that people see, and taping together packers isnt a long term solution for such a truck, and certainly not recommended.

If you cant see the "unsafe" side, perhaps dont recommend such stuff to people on a blanket canvas as you have done, jusdpost what you did, and if you still have it, or not, let peopl;e make up thier own minds.

Put 35's on a stock suspension 100 with packerts, they rub, firt good control dampers with the required lift, they dont rub, we see it all the time.

We have rims we are using now which are 5.5" offset, and dot rub the a arms, and we have been using lexus 18" rim copies as well, which have a 10mm offset difference to cruiser rims, to run 35 x 12.5 18 tyres, which improve the way the vehicle drives with lift and larger tyres, when done properly.

We also change the rear sway bar mounts to keep the sway bar in its optimum position, and not limit travel either, as wella s use longer shocks, and bump spacers to improve travel and prevent rubbing issues.

You also need to modify the front lump in the mudflap, we normally fold the seam, insert a nutsert, slot the mudflap lump so it slides over itsel, and insert a bolt and washer into the nutsert in the lip to hold the mudflap out of the way.

Blah blah blah.....we all know that stuff about the "right way" and "long term" way to slap on a suspension and fit big tires.

OK....back to the topic....for a temporary basis (which was the topic for this fella) please explain to us (me) dummy(ies) how having 2 or 3 trim packs securly taped atop a spring is unsafe and possibly can cause danger? Seriously....we all should know.

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

what's wrong with a $100 investment so one can run 35's for some time before they actually select their lift? It's another option for them.....that's all. What if someone wants a factory ride, no suspension change but run 315's? This solution will work for them too (will it not?)

No on measuring. I trust BFG's specs. I'm not interested in running a 35x12.50.

I'm sure I too would be happy with the outcome of 4.88 gearing on my truck. Never said the contrary. Is it worth it to me? No way. To others? Some. To say it's pretty-much required? I think that is misleading.

John, re why, see above, read it till you get it.,....... dont just reply dribble.

As for diff gears, we go from 3.9 to 4.3 in the diesels here, and the petrol would certainly need to go to 4.88's to keep its economy, and performance, and keep the gear shifts at the torque points and lessen the auto from straining to move the heavy 100, we also make a brake upgrade to cope with the larger tyres here, and bring braking back betetr than standard with larger tyres, so it becomes an "upgrade" and not a liability.

For any newbie, just search the forum, to work out how much you should listen to the man with his own avator. oops wrong one its this one :shotts:

 

[spressomon]

Your magic L shocks make the spring unseat from the top. Remember that is why we added spring retainers to the bottom



I said you will NOT likely roll the truck, it is just not something I would do or advocate.



Adding packers to a spring is not the same as replacing with the right spring. Your truck is higher and you have more leverage on the suspension. That is why we never advocate trying to run spacers on OE spring only to gain lift. You can not put spacers on a factory spring and expect a factory ride.



Don't trust everything you read. There is a huge difference between running a tire that measures 34" vs 35". Not internet specs, but actual measurements.



How do you know it is not worth it to you if you haven't tried it. I do not think you are in a position to advocate whether it is required or not unless you have run a regeared 100. You are putting more strain on your motor, tranny and drivetrain components, even worse when you go off-road. Required might be a strong word, but just because you have done it, doesn't mean it is right. Also, up here, we pretty much consider it to be a requirement due to the power losses.

Thanks for putting this so eloquently Christo!

 

[sleeoffroad]

Do you not read the threads?

The guy on this thread has a stock suspension, is asking about tires, wants ARB's and maybe gears first, then a lift, etc. So we know his setup and accessories.

Where was the discussion about additional weight on the truck. I am pretty sure I did not miss it. I did not see a mention either way.

Do you think for somebody with my truck I tell them to slap 6 10mm trim packs atop the springs vs an 863 spring swap?

You might, I don't know.

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

for a temporary basis (which was the topic for this fella) please explain to us (me) dummy(ies) how having 2 or 3 trim packs securly taped atop a spring is unsafe and possibly can cause danger? Seriously....we all should know.

John, Im not going to hold your hand, and try and teach you in one post [which with your attitude, you wont get the detail anyway] whats right and wrong, but I have explained why 35's and stock suspension wont work already, just because you dont beieve it doesnt mean you should ram it down everyones neck, you said your peice, now move on and let those with experience fill the gaps you leave, and help those who may be misguided by your mechanically bankrupt statements. :shotts:

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Your magic L shocks make the spring unseat from the top. Remember that is why we added spring retainers to the bottom



I said you will NOT likely roll the truck, it is just not something I would do or advocate.



Adding packers to a spring is not the same as replacing with the right spring. Your truck is higher and you have more leverage on the suspension. That is why we never advocate trying to run spacers on OE spring only to gain lift. You can not put spacers on a factory spring and expect a factory ride.



Don't trust everything you read. There is a huge difference between running a tire that measures 34" vs 35". Not internet specs, but actual measurements.



How do you know it is not worth it to you if you haven't tried it. I do not think you are in a position to advocate whether it is required or not unless you have run a regeared 100. You are putting more strain on your motor, tranny and drivetrain components, even worse when you go off-road. Required might be a strong word, but just because you have done it, doesn't mean it is right. Also, up here, we pretty much consider it to be a requirement due to the power losses.

Ya. L-shocks and stock springs with trim packs would not work!

How does speaking about added trim packs or added spacers bring up the words "roll your truck"? Do you know how many folks have these setups that have never come close to rolling? Please explain. You sold spring/spacer combo's in the past. You even told me in the past on my 80 I could run 863's with 2 packers. I did it and added a third and drove for 4 years doing the craziest stuff. Seriously....how does "roll" come into play?

I know gears would ease up the drive train. I know the crawl down the hills would be better. Would I recommend 4.88's to somebody adding lockers? Sure! Would I say that "almost everybody says yiou need gears to run 35's on a 100" like the one postee did? No way. We're playing with words here.

I will say this.....the 4.88's in my LX450......nice, though I expected more.

 

[sleeoffroad]

OK....back to the topic....for a temporary basis (which was the topic for this fella) please explain to us (me) dummy(ies) how having 2 or 3 trim packs securly taped atop a spring is unsafe and possibly can cause danger? Seriously....we all should know.

Where did the temporary come in? He asked about doing it, there was no mention of temporary from the original poster. You suggested a temporary duct tape fix.

If you are going to do things like that, why not hold off and do it properly.

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

John, Im not going to hold your hand, and try and teach you in one post [which with your attitude, you wont get the detail anyway] whats right and wrong, but I have explained why 35's and stock suspension wont work already, just because you dont beieve it doesnt mean you should ram it down everyones neck, you said your peice, now move on and let those with experience fill the gaps you leave, and help those who may be misguided by your mechanically bankrupt statements. :shotts:

That's OK. I didn't expect an answer. I don't from Slee either.

I do know that there's a whole bunch of folks with FZJ80's out here in AZ that have trim packs and/or spacers (and not by my recommendation). I don't think they know they are running a dangerous setup that could roll their truck. If I could explain the risk to them I would.....if somebody here could only explain it. Anybody?

 

[CDN80eh?]

LandCruisers4Life: What year LC do you have? If later (2006+??) I don't think you can run the 16" wheels due to the larger brake rotors/calipers? hoser?

Can you run 16 inch wheels on an '04 that came stock with 18's ?

Thanks

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Where did the temporary come in? He asked about doing it, there was no mention of temporary from the original poster. You suggested a temporary duct tape fix.

If you are going to do things like that, why not hold off and do it properly.

Read post 11 my friend. See the word "interim"?

OK...please step up....how does adding a 20-30mm trim pack or spacer (a non-spring solution) risk rollover. I'm sure everyone is curious? If not, they should post up and share their knowledge.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Ya. L-shocks and stock springs with trim packs would not work! /quote]

You have 863's and L shocks and they still unseat.

How does speaking about added trim packs or added spacers bring up the words "roll your truck"? Do you know how many folks have these setups that have never come close to rolling? Please explain.

Do a trail, springs move around, spacer moves around and come close to falling out, on the way home on the dirt road you go around a corner, one, two or three spring packers slide out, when you come out of the corner suddenly your one side drops more than the other side, truck swerves a little, you over correct and boom, you roll.

PS, this was a 98/99 without TRAC (so no magic to save you).

You sold spring/spacer combo's in the past. You even told me in the past on my 80 I could run 863's with 2 packers. I did it and added a third and drove for 4 years doing the craziest stuff. Seriously....how does "roll" come into play?

Never sold spacers with stock springs. We always had bolt in spacers for the front or single spacers with machined lips to make sure they stay put. There is also a reason why we stopped doing it. Mostly due to bad handling when the spring rate is to low and you put a spacer on top. Just like three packers on a OE suspension.

I know gears would ease up the drive train. I know the crawl down the hills would be better. Would I recommend 4.88's to somebody adding lockers? Sure! Would I say that "almost everybody says yiou need gears to run 35's on a 100" like the one postee did? No way. We're playing with words here.

I will say this.....the 4.88's in my LX450......nice, though I expected more.

We are not playing with words. We are putting info out there. People that don't know a ring gear from a McDonalds burger will read this. You point them to your write-up where you did a commendable job in documenting the mods you made. They now consider you an expert and so they believe everything you say. We are just putting the counter point out there.

 

[spressomon]

Can you run 16's wheels on a 04 that came stock with 18's ?

Thanks

Yes. 285R75 16 is a popular size for 33" nominal equiv. 295R75 16 is another size option for 33.5" nominal equiv. and the 315R75 16 for 35" nominal equiv. A few have run the 305R70 16 which is a 33" nominal equiv but wider.

For the 305 and 315 width tires you will probably need to adjust your steering bumps to slightly limit the turning radius to prevent rubbing assuming you are not going to run wheel spacers in front or custom wheels.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Read post 11 my friend. See the word "interim"?

Yes, you brought it into the discussion. The original poster did not ask about a temporary solution.

 

[sleeoffroad]

OK...please step up....how does adding a 20-30mm trim pack or spacer (a non-spring solution) risk rollover. I'm sure everyone is curious? If not, they should post up and share their knowledge.

Adding 1 packer is not the same as adding three. Also adding a packer to a situation where they can never come unseated is also not the same. With three packers you have slippery surface on slippery surface for the middle packer.

This is what I wrote

"Will you roll the truck when this happens, probably not, however I would still not advise people to do that."

 

[spressomon]

Re-read my post from 11:29AM and re-think about this. You're not getting it.

There is no post on this thread from 11:29AM...you're the one "not getting it"...

 

[ShottsUZJ100]

Re-read my post from 11:29AM and re-think about this. You're not getting it.

There is no post on this thread from 11:29AM...you're the one "not getting it"...

Post #6

 

[ats4x4dotcom]

That's OK. I didn't expect an answer. I don't from Slee either.

John,

we answered, your just not understanding.

you cant start these non technical ravings of yours, with no idea what your talking about, then pretend people who do this for a living arent making sense to everyone else. We will ALWAYS make sure people get the RIGHT advise, and Im sure Christo does as well, but just because its not what you want to hear doesnt mean you should be trying to hold a discussion about it, when you dont actually know, but your welcome to your opinion, but dont try and force the point when people dont agree.

Surely your own avator is a wake up call from the constabulary to have a good hard long look at what you are doing, and how you are doing it, even if you dont agree with what the general public is pointing out more and more bluntly to you, at least go back and re read some of what you post, Im sure once the heat of the moment has gone, you could not think it paints you in any valuable position on technical detail.

Newbies can only be at a loss to to take what you say in your posts, when they dont know any better, and you should take responsibility for that, by understanding when your swimming over your head.

If not, then your posts and threads are going to continue to go this way, or 100 tech will be John, his opinions, and the odd newbie as they come and go.

Hopefully the mods will pm you about it.