35's? (10 Viewers)

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Ok there we go.... I just bought a BULK of Duracell batteries and went to town on photographs. I think I took about 40... I'll post a cable modem burning thread in a few minutes.
:popcorn:
 
gearing

Iwould reccomend the 4.88 with the 35's. It should be a great
combo with the 5 speed AT. I ran my 4.88 for a while w/ 33's and it was great. Still good with the 35's, but could stand to be just a bit lower. The 4.7 doesnt make much power in comparison to the wieght of a built up 100 series so the gearing really helps.


I have a 5 speed, so I think it really doesn't matter, the 4.88's are probably needed to compensate for the weight of the tires etc, as well as a fully laden 100 for expeditionary travel.....
 
What about using the 4.3 in combination with the 5spd??? More specifically...

1) 5spd + 4.3 + 33"
2) 5spd + 4.3 + 35"

Is that kind of change noticeable/worth while (assuming you are putting in lockers and regearing anyways) since the 5spd already has lower gears than the 4spd? Is there any advantage to it being a bolt in 100 part verses using the combination 80 and other parts? I realize 4.88s would be lower across the board, but is there a trade off there with your higher gears in the transmission ( ie highway cruisability)?
As said, the OEM 4.3 R&P is very expensive ($800 for front, $940 rear). You could run used set of 4.3's but personally, I'd rather go with new aftermarket gears than used OEM's.

If you wanted stock gearing with 35's, they make the R&P in 4.54 which would bring it back to stock gearing. If using 33's/4.54/5sp, the difference at 75mph would be about 100 rpm more than 31/4.1/5sp. Hardly noticeable and still turning fewer rpm than a 31/4.3/4sp set-up at that speed. In fact even the 35/4.88/5sp combo turns fewer rpms than 31/4.3/4sp set-up.
 
Iwould reccomend the 4.88 with the 35's. It should be a great
combo with the 5 speed AT. I ran my 4.88 for a while w/ 33's and it was great. Still good with the 35's, but could stand to be just a bit lower. The 4.7 doesnt make much power in comparison to the wieght of a built up 100 series so the gearing really helps.

What is the natural progression beyond 4.88s? I still want to drive on the freeway and not get much worse on gas mileage either... after all, I have to drive this thing from Texas to Louisiana to work ya know :D

Still, I want the gears low enough to allow the vehicle drive system (engine/trans) to get the grunt to the wheels off road, while still giving me decent on road performance as well. The less I have to put the pedal down offroad, the easier the vehicle crawls up and over stuff, and the less likely of anything getting broken. Those are facts of 4 wheeling as we all know.
 
4.88 would be your best bet. Yes, 4.56 would put you right about where it was stock with stock tires, but due to added weight wind resistence etc you will benifit from the slightly lower ratio (only about a 6 percent difference. Your RPM's will be just fine for freeway driving, and I bet you'll get better milage than 35's and stock gears. Ive run mine for about 3 years and about 60k miles that way.



What is the natural progression beyond 4.88s? I still want to drive on the freeway and not get much worse on gas mileage either... after all, I have to drive this thing from Texas to Louisiana to work ya know :D

Still, I want the gears low enough to allow the vehicle drive system (engine/trans) to get the grunt to the wheels off road, while still giving me decent on road performance as well. The less I have to put the pedal down offroad, the easier the vehicle crawls up and over stuff, and the less likely of anything getting broken. Those are facts of 4 wheeling as we all know.
 
Your RPM's will be just fine for freeway driving, and I bet you'll get better milage than 35's and stock gears. Ive run mine for about 3 years and about 60k miles that way.

I don't own a re-geared 100. My LX450 has 4.88's though and it's stock gears were 4.10's like my 100. So, 4.56's were spot on stock for 35's. 4.88 give me more power. Gas mileage is HORRIBLE! HORRIBLE! About 10MPG. Maybe 11MPG on the highway. Not sure why the 100s mileage with 4.88 would be OK or better....again, I don't have experience with the 100.

I raced my two 80's once. Both were equipped identically. The 4.88 80 barely out-excels the 4.10 80. The only place I like the 4.88 is while crawling down hill.
 
I don't own a re-geared 100. My LX450 has 4.88's though and it's stock gears were 4.10's like my 100. So, 4.56's were spot on stock for 35's. 4.88 give me more power. Gas mileage is HORRIBLE! HORRIBLE! About 10MPG. Maybe 11MPG on the highway. Not sure why the 100s mileage with 4.88 would be OK or better....again, I don't have experience with the 100.

I raced my two 80's once. Both were equipped identically. The 4.88 80 barely out-excels the 4.10 80. The only place I like the 4.88 is while crawling down hill.

I just drove my new to me 4.88'd 35'd 80 series about 500 miles and got 13.8 MPG driving 75~80 MPH. This is with bumpers, sliders J lift and a lot of miles on the engine.

I could EASILY tell the power difference from my old stock geared 35'd 80. Hell, I actually think it held hills better than my wifes stock 80 and it has half the miles.
 
I just drove my new to me 4.88'd 35'd 80 series about 500 miles and got 13.8 MPG driving 75~80 MPH. This is with bumpers, sliders J lift and a lot of miles on the engine.

I could EASILY tell the power difference from my old stock geared 35'd 80. Hell, I actually think it held hills better than my wifes stock 80 and it has half the miles.

We can tell a power difference too. The funny thing though was racing the two trucks. In reality, the power we felt turned out to only be about 2 truck lengths to 60 MPH. UP uthe hills I'm sure you are correct though compared to my 100 the LX with 4.88 is still a huge dog. That could be why I can't tell.

When I calculate mileage I deduct 10% from the odometer to correct for the gearing. When it says 200 I know I only went about 180. Do you do this or do you have a correcter?
 
Actually.....I should point out.....I think my 10-11 MPG is misleading now that I think about it. My LX is only used from home to the trail and back. When I refill I've had miles of 4-lo in the mix. That cuts the numbers. Use somebody elses example! :D
 
Which diesel?

5sp manual 1HD-FTE, 4.10
5sp auto 1HD-FTE, 3.90
4sp auto 1HD-FTE, 4.10?
5sp manual 1HZ (105 series), 4.30
 
We can tell a power difference too. The funny thing though was racing the two trucks. In reality, the power we felt turned out to only be about 2 truck lengths to 60 MPH. UP uthe hills I'm sure you are correct though compared to my 100 the LX with 4.88 is still a huge dog. That could be why I can't tell.

When I calculate mileage I deduct 10% from the odometer to correct for the gearing. When it says 200 I know I only went about 180. Do you do this or do you have a correcter?

uhm, isnt it the other way around? The bigger tires turn less per mile, leading for if you went 200 miles, you actually went 220?
 
uhm, isnt it the other way around? The bigger tires turn less per mile, leading for if you went 200 miles, you actually went 220?

If you don't regear the diffs, yes. The gears have been changed from 4.10 to 4.88 though. So, the LX450is turning about 9-ish% higher than normal.
 
Actually.....I should point out.....I think my 10-11 MPG is misleading now that I think about it. My LX is only used from home to the trail and back. When I refill I've had miles of 4-lo in the mix. That cuts the numbers. Use somebody elses example! :D

Actually, I should point out that the 80's VSS is after the t-case, it measures rotation of the DS, makes no difference if you're in high or low. :rolleyes:
 
Actually, I should point out that the 80's VSS is after the t-case, it measures rotation of the DS, makes no difference if you're in high or low. :rolleyes:

Who said anything about high or low?

If you change you tires and/or gears in the diffs your speed and odo are off. That's why they sell correctors.
 

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