Impressive, nice quality smokers there. I’ve always been intrigued with just cooking with wood, primitive but had to beat.
35 Years in the Making! (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter knuckle47
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- #62
Always one of my passions building these…my problem now that I am older and lack the strength to muscle the steel. Without equipment to handle these assemblies, I’m out of options other than to eat the by-products…not a bad option though! While some of those smokers can handle 35 full racks of ribs or 200 lbs of brisket, it’s only my wife and I ..we no longer finish a full rack of baby backs
I get it, already full figured I give probably 90% away that I cook.
- Thread starter
- #64
Today was the final inspections for everything…all passed… i can occupy it now. In fact, even got a couple of nice compliments from the inspectors throughout the day. Advantage Lifts is coming this week .
- Thread starter
- #65
Delivered. They told me between 8am and 9am…this was at 8:20am…these guys were terrific.
setup will likely be over the weekend, especially after the spray foam tomorrow. I can finally get stuff moved in
setup will likely be over the weekend, especially after the spray foam tomorrow. I can finally get stuff moved in
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- Thread starter
- #66
Got home from work and needed to run the compressor power line….spray day is tomorrow. Got it all stapled in and ready
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- #67
They showed up at 8:15 this morning g to spray the foam insulation… 2 hours of prep covering stuff… this is a partial photo
EDIT; 6 hours later. The inside has a substantial quietness to it. It rained and you don’t hear it..on the other hand, it is no longer the symmetrical pattern of angles and squares…. It looks like a droopy mess and is ugly. Looks like Sheetrock or FRP paneling is going to need to clean up the look. It feels amazingly solid and finds its way into the smallest crevasses. The solid feel of the structure is no longer tinny and creaking under the expansion and contraction of the metal roof and sides.
EDIT; 6 hours later. The inside has a substantial quietness to it. It rained and you don’t hear it..on the other hand, it is no longer the symmetrical pattern of angles and squares…. It looks like a droopy mess and is ugly. Looks like Sheetrock or FRP paneling is going to need to clean up the look. It feels amazingly solid and finds its way into the smallest crevasses. The solid feel of the structure is no longer tinny and creaking under the expansion and contraction of the metal roof and sides.
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Michael B
SILVER Star
Lookin’ good!
- Thread starter
- #69
I’ve made no secret that the spray insulation is really ugly. I have a slow solution in covering it up..not cheap although comparatively I guess it’s cheap. T1-11 run horizontally with pegboard at the top… working alone, this took me 8 hours to get done and I’ll need at least another 8-9 to finish and I still have the last 2 foot at the top and then the ceiling. I un-knowingly created more work for myself and would have been just as happy if not more so, with fiberglas batting and rolls.
on top of this, there is a 2200 lb 4 post lift screaming at me to get assembled !! Should make it a nice trip to the ceiling anyway instead of using scaffolding.
Spent hours trimming away cured foam to allow my 2x4’s to lay as flat as possible, then needed to bore holes to let the 5” screws get more grip in a 3 1/2 inch wide space. Boring the hole gives me an extra 1 1/2”
on top of this, there is a 2200 lb 4 post lift screaming at me to get assembled !! Should make it a nice trip to the ceiling anyway instead of using scaffolding.
Spent hours trimming away cured foam to allow my 2x4’s to lay as flat as possible, then needed to bore holes to let the 5” screws get more grip in a 3 1/2 inch wide space. Boring the hole gives me an extra 1 1/2”
Would a multitool help with the trimming the insulation?
- Thread starter
- #71
Is that one of those vibrating cutting tools?
Yes sir, i've found mine to be extremely helpful in many situations. Different blades for different situations.
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- #73
It is Sunday morning 7:am…heading out to Lowes to pick one up….thanks for the recommendation
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- #74
220v lines in for welder and compressor…snaked a 110v line for the tv off the gfi on the wall
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- #75
Had a dry day today after 5 days of rain, over 7” of rain so being rested, I installed some of the MaxLine by Rapid Air for the compressor air feed to the 6 drops in the building. The 100’ coil is somewhat easy to shape into a straight line but cumbersome…. while you can radius the 90 degree curves there is a limit to the bend before you might actually be better off with their elbow. It pays to have a solid rod to insert into the ID of the tubing to give a bit of leverage during the shaping without distorting the circular shape. It should prove to be a very easy way to deliver compressed air to a bunch of convenient places compared to the old galvanized pipe I had used for 30 plus years
- Thread starter
- #76
For anyone planning on using the RapidAir MaxLine system:
1.) when running the tubing, only pre cut the lengths as you go from one end to the other. It’s a pita to be short if the fitting needs to be adjusted.
2.) place the nut and compression ring on the tube before flaring the inside with the 3 point plastic tool
3.) when straightening the coil for your runs, go beyond the length you need keeping it straight where required or curved where required. If you cut it with a curve in
the last few inches, it is a monumental task making it straight for a perpendicular fit. It’s easy to just keep un rolling a long piece and cut it
4.) if you do not use their 90 degree fitting and need a radius, cut that portion while still curled from the coil. It is not easy to bend close radius curves without the
leverage of the main coil.
5.) PLAN….hard to plan as you fly by the seat of your pants.. so when you discover you need “X” part, unless your local supply carrys the parts, it’s mail-order and
wait time. THE 100’ master kit comes with 3 drops and 2 T’s. I had to order 4 more T’s and 4 more drops and could not finish the job for a few days
1.) when running the tubing, only pre cut the lengths as you go from one end to the other. It’s a pita to be short if the fitting needs to be adjusted.
2.) place the nut and compression ring on the tube before flaring the inside with the 3 point plastic tool
3.) when straightening the coil for your runs, go beyond the length you need keeping it straight where required or curved where required. If you cut it with a curve in
the last few inches, it is a monumental task making it straight for a perpendicular fit. It’s easy to just keep un rolling a long piece and cut it
4.) if you do not use their 90 degree fitting and need a radius, cut that portion while still curled from the coil. It is not easy to bend close radius curves without the
leverage of the main coil.
5.) PLAN….hard to plan as you fly by the seat of your pants.. so when you discover you need “X” part, unless your local supply carrys the parts, it’s mail-order and
wait time. THE 100’ master kit comes with 3 drops and 2 T’s. I had to order 4 more T’s and 4 more drops and could not finish the job for a few days
WarDamnEagle
SILVER Star
So I noticed your drops are quite close together. Is the intention to never have to use more than a few feet of hose or are those drops going to specific pieces of equipment (eg. blast cabinet)? I have a 40'x40' shop and was actually not going to put in any drops unless it was for specific equipment (again, blast cabinet being the only one I can think of at the moment) but maybe I'm missing something. My thought was 50' of hose would get me anywhere. Installation looks good.
- Thread starter
- #78
@WarDamnEagle this building is 28 x 40, these drops are on each 8 ft pole spacing so that I can minimize a long air hose and keep it shorter for better management. This is the 3/4” 100’ roll master kitand it is running on the two side walls and the longer rear wall. Each drop is 40” from the feed. These 7 drops will also feed a blast cabinet further from my “ car” area And a plasma cutter for the welding area. There is also hose reel in the center of the ceiling. The lift is going on the left side so it has access to 4 drops within a few feet from my ”car” zone. I have used 2 drops in my house garage and they were usually in the wrong spots so for my decisions here, it all about the convenience. I also have a few different air tools in the welder area like die grinders and air powered hand tools.
that 100 foot roll will be almost completely used up between the 3 walls and drops …. None of it exactly planned but I did need to buy 4 additional drops and 3 90 degree elbows. That radius turn you see for the first drop Would not work since the compressor is on the other side of that same wall so I will pass a flexible hose thru the wall an attach the compressor to the filter/regulator with the ell and feed the entire system in that corner with the first tee. I have a 9’ wide garage door on the right side wall which I will plumb over to get to the right wall for the last drop.
hope that makes sense. It did run an extra $400 for the 4 extra drops, elbows and tee’s.
For what it’s worth, years ago I added a central vac to our ranch house… two ports and a 35’ vacuum hose does cover the whole place 140’ left to right, front to back. Thanks for the compliment
that 100 foot roll will be almost completely used up between the 3 walls and drops …. None of it exactly planned but I did need to buy 4 additional drops and 3 90 degree elbows. That radius turn you see for the first drop Would not work since the compressor is on the other side of that same wall so I will pass a flexible hose thru the wall an attach the compressor to the filter/regulator with the ell and feed the entire system in that corner with the first tee. I have a 9’ wide garage door on the right side wall which I will plumb over to get to the right wall for the last drop.
hope that makes sense. It did run an extra $400 for the 4 extra drops, elbows and tee’s.
For what it’s worth, years ago I added a central vac to our ranch house… two ports and a 35’ vacuum hose does cover the whole place 140’ left to right, front to back. Thanks for the compliment
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- Thread starter
- #79
Moving a few things from my garage to the new building… I have zero experience regarding moving heavy things. decades ago I could use shear force…but that’s out of the question now. It is 100’ from the garage to the new pole barn and I have R Blend (crushed concrete) and my driveway. Some of these tools are 300-400 lbs and years ago at 35, I could muscle them around and find a way to get them where they have been for so long.
can someone recommend a rental tool that would get them lifted and across the stone?
I was thinking engine hoist, place them in The pickup and drive over the the garage and reverse the process ..that’s a bunch of work, but maybe there is an easier way I do not know about
this drill press I carried back in 1988… when I tried a few days ago, it top heavier itself to a position in the floor… thank goodness it was a well controlled movement but my arm suffered a few cuts and bruises
can someone recommend a rental tool that would get them lifted and across the stone?
I was thinking engine hoist, place them in The pickup and drive over the the garage and reverse the process ..that’s a bunch of work, but maybe there is an easier way I do not know about
this drill press I carried back in 1988… when I tried a few days ago, it top heavier itself to a position in the floor… thank goodness it was a well controlled movement but my arm suffered a few cuts and bruises
Do you have any need for small tractor with bucket around the site? Maybe rent (if practical with location) small lawn tractor with front end loader? I figure this would be cheaper than a skid steer?
