35"+ Tire Roll-call... (200's only) (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Markuson
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- 200 series 35 tire
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Ah yes, Willy did it!
I’m a glutton for punishment and will probably try this with 35s once my 34s wear out. My hold out is that normally the bolt head sits tight against the LCA cradle, whereas in this setup it would press against the sway bar end link bushing
I'm not sure where it was posted but its on here somewhere. I'll take a pic tomorrow.
You and markuson have me at least a little concerned. I’m very happy with my 35’s. What more should I do? Just figure on replacing my sway bar end links from time to time?
This hill use be a challenge/impassable. Piece of cake!
Markuson
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I don’t mean to spook ya. If I had a thicker wallet and greater tolerance for issues that can cost $, I’d love to put my 35 back on.
I’ve tended to give my truck a harsh beating as undercarriage smacks, missing chunks and gouges testify to. I’m also suuuper heavy, and tend to choose trail stuff that puts real strain on things up front.
Travis ( @Willy beamin ) seems to have remained happy with his 35’s for quite a while. On the other hand, I think he also has an 80 now...so I’m not sure what kind of abuse regularly happens on which now. Hopefully he chimes in on that. His truck influenced mine big-time. It’s how I discovered the TJM T13, for one...and I’ve been really happy with it.
I do wish the 200 had a standard front axle like the 80, because if it did, a lot of this discussion would diminish. Just a lot more to contend with on IFS...and probably feeer 200 owners would also own 80’s.
You had that much trouble walking up those stairs?
Ask Slee or Trail Tailor what they recommend when you use their relo bracket. For the time being tweaking the end links probably isn't the end of the world to fit 35s. Worst case they're $100-200 I think so when the bushings give out you can try @Willy beamin's method or just replace them.
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So let me ask this...If the end links bend due to the relocation bracket what is the big deal? Does the anti sway bar not still do its job? Serious question.
Its fine. It bends in place / conforms. But your OCD will take over as mine did and that when you start trying to find a solution.
Heres the sway bar end link (s) mounted outside the LCA carrier. Its been punished and driven across america and is still as it should be.
First pic is to show the end link outside the carrier.
second pic is to show the solid spacers filling the void in the carrier.
third pic is showing no bent-ness
Fourth pic is showing the clearance the slee relo bracket and a 3/4” wheel spacers afforded my set up
Fifth pic is showing the clearance between tire and kdss arm at full steering lock.
All that said should paint a very telling testimony.
ignore my rust spots, easy fix. Been spending all my time on my 80 so the 200 has been pigeon holed for a bit.
thanks
First pic is to show the end link outside the carrier.
second pic is to show the solid spacers filling the void in the carrier.
third pic is showing no bent-ness
Fourth pic is showing the clearance the slee relo bracket and a 3/4” wheel spacers afforded my set up
Fifth pic is showing the clearance between tire and kdss arm at full steering lock.
All that said should paint a very telling testimony.
ignore my rust spots, easy fix. Been spending all my time on my 80 so the 200 has been pigeon holed for a bit.
thanks
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I’m looking forward to showing all of this to my technician to install my KDSS relocate. After tackling a simple hill that was a problem with my factory 31.5’s very easily with my 34.8’s and not to mention these Falken Wildpeaks feel great, don’t make noise, drive smooth (just an obvious bigger drive feel); I am 100% sold. I feel confident the same Potts Jeep Trail that kicked my a$$ will be more like butter with these even without lockers and 4.88’s yet.
Just had a couple minutes this evening to play with the one tire I had mounted (this is a stock RW wheel vs the beadlocks that are 1/2” wider but that shouldn’t make a lot of difference)
3/4” adapters on the back. No body lift. AHC in low (sensor lift though). Bumpstops and jounce bumpers in the coil removed.
It barely touches the mudflap.
Then pushing it up until the passenger side tire barely comes off the ground.
I could still rotate the tire in the air with it squeaking as it rubbed the mudflap.
Just a fun evening crawling around and taking notes. Still a long ways off, and obviously the front will be the challenging end.
3/4” adapters on the back. No body lift. AHC in low (sensor lift though). Bumpstops and jounce bumpers in the coil removed.
It barely touches the mudflap.
Then pushing it up until the passenger side tire barely comes off the ground.
I could still rotate the tire in the air with it squeaking as it rubbed the mudflap.
Just a fun evening crawling around and taking notes. Still a long ways off, and obviously the front will be the challenging end.
As of this year, the 80 sees all the trail action. Finished building it in July 20’ - rubicon rated.I don’t mean to spook ya. If I had a thicker wallet and greater tolerance for issues that can cost $, I’d love to put my 35 back on.
I’ve tended to give my truck a harsh beating as undercarriage smacks, missing chunks and gouges testify to. I’m also suuuper heavy, and tend to choose trail stuff that puts real strain on things up front.
Travis ( @Willy beamin ) seems to have remained happy with his 35’s for quite a while. On the other hand, I think he also has an 80 now...so I’m not sure what kind of abuse regularly happens on which now. Hopefully he chimes in on that. His truck influenced mine big-time. It’s how I discovered the TJM T13, for one...and I’ve been really happy with it.
I do wish the 200 had a standard front axle like the 80, because if it did, a lot of this discussion would diminish. Just a lot more to contend with on IFS...and probably feeer 200 owners would also own 80’s.
200 now gets used, differently. Ha
Lol... Stupid question. How do I get my rear axle to move like that?
Find big rocks and drive over them ha
Its all in spring flex, shock travel, bumpstops and tire size. If you keep wheeling like you have been youll start playing around and trying different rear coils. Youll find the right recipe for Your needs. Thats the best honest answer i can give you.
I can’t speak for the 200 yet, but for my 100 it required longer length shocks first, then longer coils that wouldn’t fall out when the shock would reach its maximum extension. In that case they were both Tough Dog from Trail Tailor. In the 80’s, some would modify the upper shock mount to place the mount up a little higher and allow a longer shock but still keeping ride height relatively low. I haven’t seen this done on 200’s. Like Willy said, experience helps, but if your truck comes back looking like it did last time, you may need to dial it back a notch ...or just keep sending it, you’ll learn both ways
Have you decided on larger tires yet?
So much better! Hammered the metal just like you said. It’s like I have my truck back. So nice.
