35 in tires on 100 series. (6 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

No body lift! Not sure what the cab mount is. Sorry. Trying to learn as much as I can. I am a newbie to all of this
No worries, I could be wrong too, that's what it was called in the Tacoma world. It's a weld that sticks out directly behind the front tires (usually hidden underneath the fender liner) and bigger tires can rub on it... but if you haven't noticed anything then I guess you're fine haha
 
Im running 35 MTRs on stock 16" wheels. The rear clears no problem. The front pinch weld for the body needs to be bent with a BFH or some cutting, its pretty minor. I was also rubbing the upper control arms slightly, so i had some 10mm wheel spacers custom made (cheapo auto zone universal ones are a waste of money, they will make the wheel unbalanced). On some faster bumps offroad the tires would hit the inner fender, so i put in a 12mm body lift (24mm ~ 1" caused the steering shaft to rub my DT headers). You will see a little paint missing from the frame, no point in painting it as the tire will rub it off again, doesn't cause any issue though.

As for driveability, it handles them very well. I'm also regeared with 4.88s. This thing is a rocket compared to an 80 series with 285s and stock gearing.

IMG_0707.JPG
 
No worries, I could be wrong too, that's what it was called in the Tacoma world. It's a weld that sticks out directly behind the front tires (usually hidden underneath the fender liner) and bigger tires can rub on it... but if you haven't noticed anything then I guess you're fine haha
That's true! Yeah I have no rubbing when I turn at full lock on either side! Like I said I have not yet taken her out wheeling!
 
Im running 35 MTRs on stock 16" wheels. The rear clears no problem. The front pinch weld for the body needs to be bent with a BFH or some cutting, its pretty minor. I was also rubbing the upper control arms slightly, so i had some 10mm wheel spacers custom made (cheapo auto zone universal ones are a waste of money, they will make the wheel unbalanced). On some faster bumps offroad the tires would hit the inner fender, so i put in a 12mm body lift (24mm ~ 1" caused the steering shaft to rub my DT headers). You will see a little paint missing from the frame, no point in painting it as the tire will rub it off again, doesn't cause any issue though.

As for driveability, it handles them very well. I'm also regeared with 4.88s. This thing is a rocket compared to an 80 series with 285s and stock gearing.

View attachment 1494677
Gorgeous rig!
 
Gorgeous rig!

Thank ya Nathan, i do need to get some updated pics of it with the Slee bumper on there.

Another option if you don't want to do a body lift is to extend the bump stops. As far as i know, they screw in. So if you unscrewed them, placed an appropriate washer in there, it should give you some reduction in up travel. Not ideal, but it does reduce the work and hassle of a body lift. The Timbren bump stops may be worth looking into as well.
 
Thank ya Nathan, i do need to get some updated pics of it with the Slee bumper on there.

Another option if you don't want to do a body lift is to extend the bump stops. As far as i know, they screw in. So if you unscrewed them, placed an appropriate washer in there, it should give you some reduction in up travel. Not ideal, but it does reduce the work and hassle of a body lift. The Timbren bump stops may be worth looking into as well.
Where are the bump stops located?
 
Where are the bump stops located?

There is a picture Land Cruiser Phil posted where you can see one of them. You have two bump stops per front LCA. Its what the LCA hits and stops the up travel.
 
Correct. The timbrens are bigger but more squishy. I don't actually know if you'd be able to reduce the uptravel height with those.
The stock ones, assuming there is still enough thread engagement with the washer in place, should work.
 
There are definitely a lot of very bright people here and more real experience than most could imagine. I apologize that I personally have been a little irritated lately (trying to sell a house, death in the family, etc). I hope that I HELP more than I HURT this forum, because most I've encountered in here have been very helpful. I think everyone in here wants to.... make their vehicle "better", not waste a bunch of money, and help others on this forum. Sometimes we, myself included, receive good advice, but it wasn't the advice we hoped we'd get. I'm trying to be as honest as possible in the information I GIVE as well as he information I ASK for.

My apologies if I seem brash at times.
 
Im running 35 MTRs on stock 16" wheels. The rear clears no problem. The front pinch weld for the body needs to be bent with a BFH or some cutting, its pretty minor. I was also rubbing the upper control arms slightly, so i had some 10mm wheel spacers custom made (cheapo auto zone universal ones are a waste of money, they will make the wheel unbalanced). On some faster bumps offroad the tires would hit the inner fender, so i put in a 12mm body lift (24mm ~ 1" caused the steering shaft to rub my DT headers). You will see a little paint missing from the frame, no point in painting it as the tire will rub it off again, doesn't cause any issue though.

As for driveability, it handles them very well. I'm also regeared with 4.88s. This thing is a rocket compared to an 80 series with 285s and stock gearing.

View attachment 1494677

Hey Layton, can you confirm if you rub in the front, at full bump when you turn? Is the 12mm body lift enough to clear the front fenders?
 
I run 35's too (315/75/16). Not really though, people need to get out their tape measures and post real world figures.
Someone show me a true 35" tire on a 100 that didn't require a sledgehammer, a sawzall or a bodylift. Not possible in the real world.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom