35 in tires on 100 series.

[mmaakk]

I’m on my second pair of 35 BFG km2’s on 18” rims. I have the spidertrax front spacers or else the tire rubs on the UCA. I have a 2.5” OME lift and Slee sliders, diff drop and ARB front and rear bumpers. This all helps with the clearance but still rubs on the pinch weld like most here on the forum mention. I did a little plastic fender modification and left the weld alone as it only rubs on full compression which is rare with the OME stiff sport shocks. Heads up, it seems to cause a lot of stress on steering rack. Good luck!

 

[r2m]

These are the parts I ordered from McMaster-Carr to make my body lift:
Part No. Description

• 91280A680 Medium-Strength Zinc-Plated Steel Cap Screw - Class 8.8, M10 Thread, Pitch: 1.5, 200mm Long
• 91280A670 Medium-Strength Zinc-Plated Steel Cap Screw - Class 8.8, M10 Thread, Pitch: 1.5, 160mm Long
• 90576A118 Metric Zinc-Plated Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut, Class 8, M10 Screw Size, 1.5mm Pitch, 17mm Wide, 10mm High
• 91100A170 Zinc-Plated Steel Oversized Flat Washer, M10 Screw Size, 10.5mm ID, 30.0mm OD
• 9900K31 UHMW Polyethylene, Static-Dissipative UHMW Polyethylene, Color: Black; Temp Range: -20º to 180º F (2" O.D. x 24" long)

I used my drop band saw to cut 2" lengths of the UHMW. I did not take into account the deflection of the saw blade so after cutting the pucks, I had to turn them down on my bench lathe. I wound up with a net 1.75" height for my body lift pucks. Add that to the already installed 2.5" suspension lift, that gives a total of 4.25". I also had to make a small shift extension for my transfer case shifter otherwise it would buried in the console. That is what the pictures of that round shaft with threads is.
Search Spressoman's posts for a diagram of where all the bolts are and the correct length. I owe Spressoman for the info. I just added a little more height to the body lift so I didn't have to add longer bump stops.

**Thanks Spressoman**

The suspension lift is from Just Differentials:
Part No. Description
(N/A) Bump It Offroad differential drop kit
JTOUCA-TLC100 UniBall upper control arms (Nitro Upper Control Arms)
BILUZJ100F Bilstien HD 4600 shocks (front)
BILUZJ100R Bilstien HD 4600 shocks (rear)
OME303001 Landcruiser 100 torsion bar, 98-07 (Petrol only)
2866 Coil, L/C 100SER IFS Rear

I've added some pics of about how my rig looks now. Since that picture, I've raised the front to be level with the rear. I know that one picture of my LC looks like the front wheel is rubbing on the rear of the front fender, but it is the camera angle. No rubbing, honest.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

These are the parts I ordered from McMaster-Carr to make my body lift:
Part No. Description

• 91280A680 Medium-Strength Zinc-Plated Steel Cap Screw - Class 8.8, M10 Thread, Pitch: 1.5, 200mm Long
• 91280A670 Medium-Strength Zinc-Plated Steel Cap Screw - Class 8.8, M10 Thread, Pitch: 1.5, 160mm Long
• 90576A118 Metric Zinc-Plated Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut, Class 8, M10 Screw Size, 1.5mm Pitch, 17mm Wide, 10mm High
• 91100A170 Zinc-Plated Steel Oversized Flat Washer, M10 Screw Size, 10.5mm ID, 30.0mm OD
• 9900K31 UHMW Polyethylene, Static-Dissipative UHMW Polyethylene, Color: Black; Temp Range: -20º to 180º F (2" O.D. x 24" long)

I used my drop band saw to cut 2" lengths of the UHMW. I did not take into account the deflection of the saw blade so after cutting the pucks, I had to turn them down on my bench lathe. I wound up with a net 1.75" height for my body lift pucks. Add that to the already installed 2.5" suspension lift, that gives a total of 4.25". I also had to make a small shift extension for my transfer case shifter otherwise it would buried in the console. That is what the pictures of that round shaft with threads is.
Search Spressoman's posts for a diagram of where all the bolts are and the correct length. I owe Spressoman for the info. I just added a little more height to the body lift so I didn't have to add longer bump stops.

**Thanks Spressoman**

The suspension lift is from Just Differentials:
Part No. Description
(N/A) Bump It Offroad differential drop kit
JTOUCA-TLC100 UniBall upper control arms
BILUZJ100F Bilstien HD 4600 shocks (front)
BILUZJ100R Bilstien HD 4600 shocks (rear)
OME303001 Landcruiser 100 torsion bar, 98-07 (Petrol only)
2866 Coil, L/C 100SER IFS Rear

I've added some pics of about how my rig looks now. Since that picture, I've raised the front to be level with the rear. I know that one picture of my LC looks like the front wheel is rubbing on the rear of the front fender, but it is the camera angle. No rubbing, honest.

woah, 2" body lift? I have heard people having issues with rubbing on a 1" body lift (Layonn, for example)

 

[mmaakk]

That lift is looking sweet!!!

 

[r2m]

woah, 2" body lift? I have heard people having issues with rubbing on a 1" body lift (Layonn, for example)

It's a 1.75" body lift, not 2". It was supposed to be a 2" body lift but my drop power saw cut the rods (body lift pucks) at an angle and when I was done spinning them on the lathe to make them all even and have a flat face, they come out at 1.75" I could have gone down to 1.5" but I wanted to be sure I didn't have any rubbing.

Personally, I hate body lifts but since the best we can do on our hundy's is a 2.5" suspension lift, I needed the extra height for tire clearance.
Regarding tire clearance: I feel that for serious off-roading (not hard core rock crawling) the minimum tire size is 35", period. And to do that, a body lift is needed on our rigs.

 

[Somebodyelse5]

It's a 1.75" body lift, not 2". It was supposed to be a 2" body lift but my drop power saw cut the rods (body lift pucks) at an angle and when I was done spinning them on the lathe to make them all even and have a flat face, they come out at 1.75" I could have gone down to 1.5" but I wanted to be sure I didn't have any rubbing.

Personally, I hate body lifts but since the best we can do on our hundy's is a 2.5" suspension lift, I needed the extra height for tire clearance.
Regarding tire clearance: I feel that for serious off-roading (not hard core rock crawling) the minimum tire size is 35", period. And to do that, a body lift is needed on our rigs.

so, no issues with the steering linkage hitting the headers?

 

[MTKID]

It's a 1.75" body lift, not 2". It was supposed to be a 2" body lift but my drop power saw cut the rods (body lift pucks) at an angle and when I was done spinning them on the lathe to make them all even and have a flat face, they come out at 1.75" I could have gone down to 1.5" but I wanted to be sure I didn't have any rubbing.

Personally, I hate body lifts but since the best we can do on our hundy's is a 2.5" suspension lift, I needed the extra height for tire clearance.
Regarding tire clearance: I feel that for serious off-roading (not hard core rock crawling) the minimum tire size is 35", period. And to do that, a body lift is needed on our rigs.

...or steering linkage extension like Duiser’s kit?

 

[r2m]

so, no issues with the steering linkage hitting the headers?

Nope, nada, zilch. I did have to loosen the coupling on the steering shaft (in the engine compartment) and let it have a little more play. The steering was a little tight for a couple of days until the shaft worked it's way looser. I would keep adjusting it.

I did have to make an extension (aluminum rod I turned on a lathe) for my transfer case into my tunnel as seen in the photos above.

 

[r2m]

...or steering linkage extension like Duiser’s kit?

I had to look up what were "Duiser's kit". So I guess the answer is no. I just loosened the coupling and pulled the shaft to separate it just a little so the steering wasn't tight. I have now traveled with it like that for about 4 years including off-roading. Never a problem.

 

[MTKID]

I had to look up what were "Duiser's kit". So I guess the answer is no. I just loosened the coupling and pulled the shaft to separate it just a little so the steering wasn't tight. I have now traveled with it like that for about 4 years including off-roading. Never a problem.

I’m excited to see someone with tested success over 1” in the U.S. And nothing done to the radiator & radiator shroud either?

Apparently, I’ll have to start a 40” tires thread next!

 

[r2m]

I’m excited to see someone with tested success over 1” in the U.S. And nothing done to the radiator & radiator shroud either?

Apparently, I’ll have to start a 40” tires thread next!

Oh, wait, I did have to trim off the bottom of my radiator shroud.
It's been a while and I've forgotten some of the gory details. Other than that, never an issue.

Thanks for keeping me honest...

 

[Tareq]

I’m on my second pair of 35 BFG km2’s on 18” rims. I have the spidertrax front spacers or else the tire rubs on the UCA. I have a 2.5” OME lift and Slee sliders, diff drop and ARB front and rear bumpers. This all helps with the clearance but still rubs on the pinch weld like most here on the forum mention. I did a little plastic fender modification and left the weld alone as it only rubs on full compression which is rare with the OME stiff sport shocks. Heads up, it seems to cause a lot of stress on steering rack. Good luck!

View attachment 1617279

Whats ur exact 35 size plz?

 

[yotasavg]

R2m that setup looks killer

 

[YardPig]

Whats ur exact 35 size plz?

17x8 BFG KM2 MT unless he has swapped since due to heavy rubbing everywhere. Let's see it stuffing the bumpstops and a tape measure from the ground to the top of the tire to claim 35" works on a 100. @LandCruiserPhil and I have seen this claim before.
1.75" bodylift on the stock steering shaft is hanging by a thread...running 35's on a 100 "is crazy" @sleeoffroad
I run 35's too (315/75/16)! They measure 33" from ground to tip because I wanted a true 33" and want to wheel and not Pose!!

 

[Tareq]

17x8 BFG KM2 MT unless he has swapped since due to heavy rubbing everywhere. Let's see it stuffing the bumpstops and a tape measure from the ground to the top of the tire to claim 35" works on a 100. @LandCruiserPhil and I have seen this claim before.
1.75" bodylift on the stock steering shaft is hanging by a thread...running 35's on a 100 "is crazy" @sleeoffroad
I run 35's too (315/75/16)! They measure 33" from ground to tip because I wanted a true 33" and want to wheel and not Pose!!

315 is reeeealy wide!
The reason I am asking is if i keep my truck after the trip, I am going 285/75/18 , which according to research here is a sweet spot for 35s, not too wide, so as not to strain the front end components ,,,, whats ur take?

 

[YardPig]

315 is reeeealy wide!
The reason I am asking is if i keep my truck after the trip, I am going 285/75/18 , which according to research here is a sweet spot for 35s, not too wide, so as not to strain the front end components ,,,, whats ur take?

My take is tire manufacturers advertised measurements are usually nowhere close to the actual size.
Most 35" tires you will find are 33-34". I think everyone wants this magical 35" tire on a 100, but in reality it just isn't possible, unless you hang out at the mall. Bust out your tape measure.

 

[MTKID]

My take is tire manufacturers advertised measurements are usually nowhere close to the actual size.
Most 35" tires you will find are 33-34". I think everyone wants this magical 35" tire on a 100, but in reality it just isn't possible, unless you hang out at the mall. Bust out your tape measure.

You’re kind of right, my 315 Duratracs measured 33 3/4” when I replaced them. However, it may be simantics when someone says they would like to fit a “35”. There seem to be two groups, one that is referring to tires that are traditionally called 35’s and everyone knows they don’t measure up to 35” exactly, and the others who think the phrase “35” refers to actual height measurement, which is a rare tire. I think the majority here are just talking in general terms not measured height.

If anyone is trying to figure out what will fit they will have to look at the specifics of the tire they are wanting to run not just the sidewall markings.

...and saying it “just isn’t possible” except for going to the mall is wrong. I’m running 37’s just fine on my 100!
...ok, they are only actually 36” tall and I only go to the mall. Crap, you must be correct!

 

[YardPig]

You’re kind of right, my 315 Duratracs measured 33 3/4” when I replaced them. However, it may be simantics when someone says they would like to fit a “35”. There seem to be two groups, one that is referring to tires that are traditionally called 35’s and everyone knows they don’t measure up to 35” exactly, and the others who think the phrase “35” refers to actual height measurement, which is a rare tire. I think the majority here are just talking in general terms not measured height.

If anyone is trying to figure out what will fit they will have to look at the specifics of the tire they are wanting to run not just the sidewall markings.

...and saying it “just isn’t possible” except for going to the mall is wrong. I’m running 37’s just fine!
...ok, they are only actually 36” tall and I only go to the mall. Crap, you must be correct!

I think your exactly right. Some people want to take it to the next level and see what they are missing with a TRUE 35" tire. I guess I shouldn't have worded "just isn't possible". It is very possible and many have done it i'm sure, but it requires an aggressive torsion lift, a body lift, taking a sledge hammer to your pinch welds and probably losing your liners or major trimming or heat gun work. Then if you wish to offroad it heavily you will probably have to limit your uptravel with Timbren's or similar.

So.....yes, again it is possible but it appears most want to slap them on and go. I think is why it works for some and not others, not all tires are sized properly. We can take 6 different 315/75/16's for example and not one of them will be the same diameter, ranging from 32-35"!

I'm trying to clarify the MUDdy waters of a TRUE 35" tire, as that is what I think of on a tape measure.

 

[hoser]

They measure 33" from ground to tip because I wanted a true 33" and want to wheel and not Pose!!

My take is tire manufacturers advertised measurements are usually nowhere close to the actual size.
Most 35" tires you will find are 33-34". I think everyone wants this magical 35" tire on a 100, but in reality it just isn't possible, unless you hang out at the mall. Bust out your tape measure.

Pretty much all the tires I've owned have been pretty close to manufactures "specifications." (not sidewall markings) Most 285/75R18's seem to be true 35's. The sidewall markings are more like categories. Some tires even list both metric and floatation "equivalent." Mathematically, they aren't the same.

You can't really measure tires from the "ground to the top of the tire" while on the vehicle. The weight of the vehicle and the tire's pressure greatly influence your measurement. It would be better to measure side to side... or even measure the circumference to derive the diameter.

 

[Reckless]

I have 315/75/16's and I have a 2" lift, no body lift, stock UCA's, diff drop, stock torsion bars, wheel spacers, and pinch weld mod. When I'm wheeling it I only get a little plastic rub on the passenger side if I hit the bump stop hard. I get a little rub on my slider if I go full lock right and back up but that's an easy fix. IMO it fits just fine. Offset plays a big part.

The MUD 100 series Videos thread

Do I need pinch weld mod or diff drop or wheel spacers if I dont have fenders? If I need spacers which size do I need? I have an LX with slee 1.5" lift kit. I am debating between KO2 and KM3