I have a 30 mm deep socket, is there an issue with using a deep socket here? Also is 1/2 inch drive okay or is 3/4 required?
Thanks!
Thanks!
30 mm crank bolt question
- Thread starter MarcusAurelius
- Start date
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Are you going to brace on frame and bump starter? You may or may not snap a 1/2 drive. I made a special to for this purpose that is a socket welded to a 3 foot section of 1 1/4 square bar. I think 3/4 if you can get one is best.
I bought this tool and it works great.
The deep socket is fine but I would recommend a 3/4 drive. I purchased the 30mm deep socket and a 3/4 breaker bar on Amazon. Also got the 3/4 torque wrench. Made the job cake. Zero stress.
Toyota Lexus FZ-Series Engine Crankshaft Pulley Removal Tool Land Cruiser LX450 | eBay
The tool is held into place with the supplied bolts, which are threaded into the pulley holes. This tool is required when removing or installing the crankshaft pulley for several Toyota/Lexus models.
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The deep socket is fine but I would recommend a 3/4 drive. I purchased the 30mm deep socket and a 3/4 breaker bar on Amazon. Also got the 3/4 torque wrench. Made the job cake. Zero stress.
- Thread starter
- #4
No I am using that special Otramm holder 1FZ-FE Crank Holding Tool then was going to make a breaker bar setup, but my only 30 mm socket is 1/2 inch and deep from this set here.
Murdoch's – Grip - 15-Piece 1/2" Deep Impact Metric Socket Set
Shop 15-Piece 1/2" Deep Impact Metric Socket Set at Murdoch''s Ranch & Home Supply
wagonteeth
Hippoverde
I snapped my 1/2" drive craftsman breaker bar like it was a toothpick.ended up with a 3/4" breaker bar.
When a friend and I were breaking a crank bolt lose on a Mercedes diesel many years ago we found out that the 1/2 Snap-on was stronger that the 3/4 Craftsman. Wasn't even close. It was like the Craftsman was made of pot metal in comparison. We ended up snapping the Snap-on when we put a six foot pipe on it. It sounded like a gun shot when it snapped. (We ended up having to drill out the bolt BTW.)
As I stated in my previous comment. I ordered a deep socket 30mm and the Tekton 3/4 breaker from Amazon and it was cake work on mine. I definitely stressed way too much beforehand. Good luck
As I stated in my previous comment. I ordered a deep socket 30mm and the Tekton 3/4 breaker from Amazon and it was cake work on mine. I definitely stressed way too much beforehand. Good luck
¾ breaker bar from HF will work; and will work even better with a long thick pipe nipple over it like a sleeve.
i used otramm's crank holder with my snapon 1/2" breaker bar supported by the frame rail and my matco 1/2" ratcheting breaker bar on the socket felt like it was going to snap but it didn't if it. were a low quality breaker bar i can see it breaking no sweat, the bolt was so tight the 1/2" drive on the crank holder started to very slightly deform
Yep,
Best to just start with a 3/4" set up. The break away torque to remove the bolt is MUCH greater than the torque (304 ft. lbs.) to reinstall.
IF you break a 1/2" breaker bar doing this....then you are out the expense of purchasing a 3/4" AND replacing your 1/2".
Typically, a 3/4" B/B will be longer than a 1/2" B/Bar and this aids in getting leverage (though a cheater pipe might be needed in either case).
Once I finally got it, it's been good to have that harbor freight 3/4" metric socket set for other jobs too - like suspension bolts. Don't need to drag out very often..but when you need it, you need it.
- Thread starter
- #12
Well I didn't get to it today, I ended up removing the valve cover to replace the gasket, I could remove three of the screws in the rear with just my hand which was where the most oil sludge was. Spent a bit of time cleaning everything. I've got the cover now and am considering painting or putting back on as is.
davidp14
SILVER Star
Paint it now while you have the chance. Eventually you'll regret not doing it but it will be hard to justify taking it off again just to make it prettier. Paint the oil pump cover too while you're at it.
Also the torque value for the vc bolts is ridiculously low so not a huge surprise about the finger tight thing.
Also the torque value for the vc bolts is ridiculously low so not a huge surprise about the finger tight thing.
I'd also recommend painting the upper air intake high-temp silver.
Otramms tool is awesome, I used it and made things simple. Used a 1/2 in breaker bar braced against the frame and then a 3/4 in bb with a sunex 30 mm from amazon to get that crank bolt off. Had to use about 2 feet of extension on top of it to get it to finally break loose. Also when torquing the bolt back, I'm not aware of any 1/2 in torque wrenches to go to the required 304 ft lbs.
- Thread starter
- #17
- Thread starter
- #18
Do you have a picture? I'm curious how this looks
Valve Cover Porn
I've always wanted to do this project. I love the look of wrinkle black paint with exposed metal letters. This has transformed my engine bay and brings a smile every time the hood is open. It took a while to do it right and fix some minor things while the valve cover is off.
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