Mike,
Put the drivetrain in it first. Then do the suspension. Good prep work is the key. Use good jackstands.
I can't remember... didn't you get the Proffit SOA kit? If not, here is how I did mine:
1) Prep the front housing by cutting/grinding off all the existing spring perches. Leave a little of the bottom perch for a guideline for the new u-bolts.
2) Tack or clamp the shackle hanger in place using the springs you are going to use. Locate the hanger so the spring at full slack has a shackle angle more or less about 20 degrees. You will be changing this a couple times once you are able to get the full engine and tub weight on it if you want to fine tune your shackle angles. Tack or clamps should be sufficient to support the rig and located to easily grind off.
3) Install the front housing using the new perches and u-bolts and centering the axle in the frame as best you can. Here is where the old perches will help you locate where the ubolts should go and center the housing (assuming the frame and outriggers are square). You will need to work around the passenger side perch for the time being - don't cut it to match the housing yet. Just tighten things a little snug to hold things in place to mock up the axle. The clamp force of the ubolts will hold the perch in place and keep the housing from rotating.
4) Load the weight of the vehicle on the housing. Adjust the hanger locations to get the shackle angle you want. Some say 45 degrees is good. The springs will flatten over the first year so 30-35 degrees is probably a good starting point. Tack the hangers in place.
5) Rotate the housing using a jack under the pinion so the pinion angle is in line with the mocked up driveline or pointed at the t/case output. Note, a CV joint is much longer than a standard ujoint. Get a donor DL if you can and use that to mock it up.
6) Use a template or grind to fit the passenger perch to the housing. It should be the same height as the driver side and have minimal gaps.
7) Tack the perches in place.
8) Cut the housing at the knuckles. Rotate the knuckles to the desired angle. Say 3-5 degress depending on tires but do your MUD homework.
9) Tack the knuckles.
10) Inspect everything and finish other mods on the front end. Truss, brake line tabs, for example...
11) Pull the front housing out and final weld everything.
12) Paint
13) Reassemble.
I hope that helps,
Andy
Put the drivetrain in it first. Then do the suspension. Good prep work is the key. Use good jackstands.
I can't remember... didn't you get the Proffit SOA kit? If not, here is how I did mine:
1) Prep the front housing by cutting/grinding off all the existing spring perches. Leave a little of the bottom perch for a guideline for the new u-bolts.
2) Tack or clamp the shackle hanger in place using the springs you are going to use. Locate the hanger so the spring at full slack has a shackle angle more or less about 20 degrees. You will be changing this a couple times once you are able to get the full engine and tub weight on it if you want to fine tune your shackle angles. Tack or clamps should be sufficient to support the rig and located to easily grind off.
3) Install the front housing using the new perches and u-bolts and centering the axle in the frame as best you can. Here is where the old perches will help you locate where the ubolts should go and center the housing (assuming the frame and outriggers are square). You will need to work around the passenger side perch for the time being - don't cut it to match the housing yet. Just tighten things a little snug to hold things in place to mock up the axle. The clamp force of the ubolts will hold the perch in place and keep the housing from rotating.
4) Load the weight of the vehicle on the housing. Adjust the hanger locations to get the shackle angle you want. Some say 45 degrees is good. The springs will flatten over the first year so 30-35 degrees is probably a good starting point. Tack the hangers in place.
5) Rotate the housing using a jack under the pinion so the pinion angle is in line with the mocked up driveline or pointed at the t/case output. Note, a CV joint is much longer than a standard ujoint. Get a donor DL if you can and use that to mock it up.
6) Use a template or grind to fit the passenger perch to the housing. It should be the same height as the driver side and have minimal gaps.
7) Tack the perches in place.
8) Cut the housing at the knuckles. Rotate the knuckles to the desired angle. Say 3-5 degress depending on tires but do your MUD homework.
9) Tack the knuckles.
10) Inspect everything and finish other mods on the front end. Truss, brake line tabs, for example...
11) Pull the front housing out and final weld everything.
12) Paint
13) Reassemble.
I hope that helps,
Andy
