3 Row vs. 4 Row Radiator (1 Viewer)

[inkpot]

Pretty sure he made it thicker, not 'wider'.

I was just quoting the OP from around post 11 or12? I questioned that also. I see now that he did edit that: Kool!

 

[DirtaddictLC80]

First thing anyone should do on the 80s when there is cooling issues is to change out the fluid in the blue fan clutch per landtank instruction or buy the landtank one from @NLXTACY, even OEM fan clutch does NOT have proper amount and type of fluid for hot summer asreas.

Yep, the fan clutch is certainly a big one. And it is the first thing to do, assuming a properly functioning radiator and fresh coolant.

Second if you have cooling issues(get a scagauge or ultragauge) then switch to aluminum radiotors like the guys in Arizona, if they don’t have their cooling system figured out then no one does. They wheel with AC on in AZ summer that’s well over 100 degrees.

I have a scangauge and monitor IAT and water temp. It is a great way to keep track of degradation in performance over time, in addition to preventing an overheating situation.

Word of caution, now that you made the radiator thicker and if you do add 20 or 30k fluid in the clutch the tip of fan blades could make contact with the radiator, thoroughly test it at 4000 rpm with fan clutch fully locked before you go to middle of no where and slice your radiator open. Sometimes there are reasons people stick with tried and true.

Thanks. I'll check that

 

[Tools R Us]

Not something that I would do or recommend, but interested to see how it works.

I'm no expert on this, but the recore netted 4 cores, more fins and larger tubes. My understanding is that this provides more surface area for cooling. I agree though that going thicker doesn't necessarily give you better cooling. I think it really depends on several factors.

It does make more surface area, but the new area sees preheated air from the forward cores, so... Also will be very airflow restrictive, will need FAN! Would start with 30K in a blue hub and see how that goes, there is a point of diminishing returns on fluid viscosity. The blue hub is a pretty wimpy clutch, wonder if there was a correlation between it and switching to the less restrictive aluminum radiator?

... Then maybe a Snorkel for cooler IAT. ...

Lower IAT only makes a slight (very, likely undetectable) difference in power, will not make a detectable difference in coolant temp. That only works if the dorkel adds no intake restriction.

 

[DirtaddictLC80]

This video seems like a good overview of radiator design and performance

 

[alia176]

Reviving this old thread to see if the 4 core radiator mod is the cats meow

 

[Marco Lau]

My Ron Davis is 2 core, and my Liland is 3 core. Both are super efficient and cooling capacity is about the same IMO. I have no idea about 4 core...

 

[baldilocks]

My Ron Davis is 2 core, and my Liland is 3 core. Both are super efficient and cooling capacity is about the same IMO. I have no idea about 4 core...

OEM Aluminum has two rows for a reason. Air flow. Thicker cores flow air more slowly.

 

[lumbee1]

I've had 4 radiators in the Cruiser. OEM failed due to age, TYC 1918 installed in Sept 2020, TYC 1918, installed in October 2022, and Denso installed in January 2023. I did not have a Scangauge before replacing the OEM radiator however underhood temps before and after the TYC replacement seemed dramatically different. With Scangauge I watched my temperature like a hawk.

Here's my experience between the TYC and the Denso. Both are very good but the Denso seems to be a more efficient radiator and
the TYC is half the price.

TYC 1918 from RockAuto.com
No change in temperature before and after a supercharger installation.
Specs: 1.89" thick core.
Idle temp 182*F to 184*F with a handful of spikes to 186*F
Driving temp 182*F
Max temp recorded 207*F while driving in deep beach sand in the summer (93*F) with a family of four.
Quick to get up to temperature in cool and cold weather.

Denso 2219362 from RockAuto.com
Installed with a supercharger.
Specs: 1.42" thick core.
Idle temp 179*F to 182*F
Driving temp 179*F to 182*F
Max temp recorded 184*F after installation possibly due to an air bubble.
Slower to get up to temperature compared to TYC.

 

[iujkjk]

Would anyone know if these TYC 1918 radiators will fit into a 1993? Going to RockAuto I see the TYC 1918 is a 1995-1997 product. However, in the RockAuto 1993 radiators section there are items with "1918" in their names which makes me wonder if "1918" is a size or part number that would transfer. Any thoughts?

 

[-Spike-]

Would anyone know if these TYC 1918 radiators will fit into a 1993? Going to RockAuto I see the TYC 1918 is a 1995-1997 product. However, in the RockAuto 1993 radiators section there are items with "1918" in their names which makes me wonder if "1918" is a size or part number that would transfer. Any thoughts?

Yes it will, as long as it's the 1fz engine, and it will work better than the brass core that is specced for the '93. The only apparent difference is the aluminum core.

 

[Dave 2000]

Stock radiator died of old age, replacement typical plastic/aluminium street shop unit fitted around 12 years ago still good, but will probably be replaced if I recover my driving licence and get back out there.

Also note I junked the stock viscous fan many many years ago and went all electric, but done properly! No issues fully loaded in 40°+ in Spanish deserts.

FWIW, I have run electric cooling fans from as far back as the late 80's, Granada's, Capri's, a Camaro, and many more and that would include a 500 BHP V12 Jaguar Coupè, (needed twin fans on that!), but as per my second paragraph it must be done properly.

Regards

Dave

 

[FirstToy]

Highly recommend getting a koyorad/oem radiator and skipping the TYC. Noticable quality differences too.

Builds - ROTW- FirstToy

It may be one of these. From west marine.Did you see Mike? yup that is the one - I used the 6 space in my Tacoma - and the 12 space in the 80 - and used almost all the fuse space :) you can also find those here from the manufacturer http://www.bluesea.com/

forum.ih8mud.com

so far excellent cooling with koyo, will see how summer goes.

 

[alia176]

Highly recommend getting a koyorad/oem radiator and skipping the TYC. Noticable quality differences too.

Builds - ROTW- FirstToy

It may be one of these. From west marine.Did you see Mike? yup that is the one - I used the 6 space in my Tacoma - and the 12 space in the 80 - and used almost all the fuse space :) you can also find those here from the manufacturer http://www.bluesea.com/

forum.ih8mud.com

so far excellent cooling with koyo, will see how summer goes.

James - are you running the two core Koyo radiator with your supercharger? I'm running the same with the turbo and she can't keep up, not even close during the summers. I tend to hover around 220deg F when I'm on boost.

 

[Bogart]

Hey rad experts, we had an extreme cold snap at Christmas. -44 Celsius and I’ve been doing coolant since, just found the leak between the core and upper tank on my oem rad. I think I would prefer an all metal rad, and updates and recommendations? It looks like liland is out of stock, don’t want to spend for the Ron Davis unless I have to. Csf? Others?

 

[Malleus]

Hey rad experts, we had an extreme cold snap at Christmas. -44 Celsius and I’ve been doing coolant since, just found the leak between the core and upper tank on my oem rad. I think I would prefer an all metal rad, and updates and recommendations? It looks like liland is out of stock, don’t want to spend for the Ron Davis unless I have to. Csf? Others?

I replaced an OEM with an all metal (brass and copper) used CSF, but I had it taken apart, cleaned and reassembled. The quality may not be the same as the factory (in fact, it's probably much better).

 

[FirstToy]

James - are you running the two core Koyo radiator with your supercharger? I'm running the same with the turbo and she can't keep up, not even close during the summers. I tend to hover around 220deg F when I'm on boost.

My old rad was Koyo but it wasn't cooling well- I got it new in 2012.
Makes me wonder if I got a bootleg Koyo- remember back in the day people were talking about that?

New Koyo ran noticeably cooler and never above 190 on a recent trip (under same conditions). Will see how it goes this summer.

The lack of quality of the TYC just isn't worth it, imo. Trips are valuable in time and planning.
Can't waste either on a failure of cheap quality if I can help it.
I always gauge the value by the time lost if it fails. IMO, Koyo is more than quadruple the value of a tyc.

If changing from OEM, I would go Ron Davis or a good all metal unit.

 

[-Spike-]

My old rad was Koyo but it wasn't cooling well- I got it new in 2012.
Makes me wonder if I got a bootleg Koyo- remember back in the day people were talking about that?

New Koyo ran noticeably cooler and never above 190 on a recent trip (under same conditions). Will see how it goes this summer.

The lack of quality of the TYC just isn't worth it, imo. Trips are valuable in time and planning.
Can't waste either on a failure of cheap quality if I can help it.
I always gauge the value by the time lost if it fails. IMO, Koyo is more than quadruple the value of a tyc.

If changing from OEM, I would go Ron Davis or a good all metal unit.

Radiators are a consumable product. They lose efficiency over time, due to one or more factors- dirt outside, dirt/oxide/electrolysis/other deposits inside. While I agree that the TYC probably is not the highest quality replacement radiator, I would argue that it has been demonstrated to be the best cooling radiator available, and for the price it makes sense to replace it more often than other brands to maintain the excellent cooling properties in extreme conditions. You can spend a grand on a rad and maybe it will not fail structurally for several decades, but after only a few years it won't be performing as well as it did when new. Especially in offroad conditions.

 

[FirstToy]

Radiators are a consumable product. They lose efficiency over time, due to one or more factors- dirt outside, dirt/oxide/electrolysis/other deposits inside. While I agree that the TYC probably is not the highest quality replacement radiator, I would argue that it has been demonstrated to be the best cooling radiator available, and for the price it makes sense to replace it more often than other brands to maintain the excellent cooling properties in extreme conditions. You can spend a grand on a rad and maybe it will not fail structurally for several decades, but after only a few years it won't be performing as well as it did when new. Especially in offroad conditions.

If you're in extreme conditions, why wouldn't you just get a Koyo at bare minimum and have quality build and cooling. It's not even much more than a tyc.

I bought a tyc. Nothing but a waste of time and money. Time far more valuable, so i'll go for a few bucks more and get quality.

 

[-Spike-]

If you're in extreme conditions, why wouldn't you just get a Koyo at bare minimum and have quality build and cooling. It's not even much more than a tyc.

I bought a tyc. Nothing but a waste of time and money. Time far more valuable, so i'll go for a few bucks more and get quality.

Because the Koyo doesn't cool as well as the TYC. I've had both, and seen the results when multiple 80's were tested with both. Also, I have yet to have a TYC fail structurally.

 

[baldilocks]

I’d like to sit on a hill commanding a .50. Done.