3-Foot Professional Garage Lift

[MUDZLLA]

Following are a few pics from the garage lift. Not including prep or future finishing it was 3 hrs from start to finish (rig-up, lift, install pony walls, drop and de-mob). Feel free to ask questions and I'll try to answer if I can.
1) Wall Prep - first 5 ft of drywall removed, cables extended (including 100A Teck to the house from garage panel.)

2) All doors removed. Existing 7ft H x 9ft W dual doors to go to 8ft H x 9ft W.

3) Professional Framer was hired to prepare pony walls in advance (he totally ignored my CAD drawings and just banged them up in a few hours beforehand).

4) Building Movers came in and attached channels to all four exposed walls, then set up their adjustable length lifting beams. Everything carried in with a skid steer.

5) As it was lifted timber supports were built up, hydraulic jacks moved up, etc until it was possible to rest on timber supports and insert the pony walls.

 

[MUDZLLA]

6) Pony walls being installed. Anchor bolts were cut off as it was lifted. Framer user a battery nail gun to attach top of pony walls to the lower sill plate of the existing garage. Marker paint was applied previously to indicate position of walls on the concrete before lifting.

7) treated 2x6 planks were trimmed placed 2 on each side of the existing doors to temporarily support the vehicle door headers prior to setting down. The small wall sections between and around doors were rebuilt to ensure continuous studs up to headers.

8) This hydraulic unit is used to evenly lift the building and can individually and precisely adjust any of the four jacks while in the air.

9) Pony walls in place with weight set down. Note that gas line and power cables were all left as is (except for gas to garage). Everthing went straight up and straight down precisely.

10) Last Pic of that same day:

 

[Michael B]

That’s very interesting. Would you mind sharing the cost of lifting the building?

 

[DirtDauberGarage]

That is pretty cool. I would love to see some more pics. I am thinking about doing the same thing to mine.

 

[MUDZLLA]

That’s very interesting. Would you mind sharing the cost of lifting the building?

EDIT - removed price breakdown. (When done I expect it to cost around $15-20k all in).

 

[MUDZLLA]

That is pretty cool. I would love to see some more pics. I am thinking about doing the same thing to mine.

I will try to post a few more as the new OH doors and windows go in. It's all pretty standard stuff from here on in. Still waiting on City to approve the wall reinforcement scheme. So I can't start electrical or insulation until that's settled.

 

[MUDZLLA]

New 3/8" concrete anchors and pony wall sill plate bolts installed c/w fender washers. Code calls for every corner and then every 6 ft for concrete anchors. We doubled up around Car doors for safety...

Previous man door re-installed with new spacer framed in above...

 

[Michael B]

That light switch location will certainly keep the kids from playing with the lights

 

[PAToyota]

Still waiting on City to approve the wall reinforcement scheme.

How is it reinforced? I've seen some situations similar to this where the wall ended up "folding" at the horizontal joint as there isn't any lateral reinforcement like you have with a continuous 2x.

 

[MUDZLLA]

How is it reinforced? I've seen some situations similar to this where the wall ended up "folding" at the horizontal joint as there isn't any lateral reinforcement like you have with a continuous 2x.

The normal method is to add full length sister studs every 2nd or third stud, but that means cutting across the mid-plates. I am proposing to install heavy gauge steel angles every 3rd or 4th stud (as well as the bolt connections). You lose strength in the transverse direction with sistering.

If need be I'll sign off on it as a professional engineer to get it approved.

 

[PIP]

I'm fascinated the building lifters showed up, set up all those beams, lifted, set and then removed all that for the price they did it for.

 

[MUDZLLA]

I'm fascinated the building lifters showed up, set up all those beams, lifted, set and then removed all that for the price they did it for.

Agreed. The other quote we got was 4x higher. And these guys were probably the best in Alberta.

 

[PIP]

Agreed. The other quote we got was 4x higher. And these guys were probably the best in Alberta.

That's awesome!

When I started my shop I hired riggers to move my machines. Watched them, thought it looked pretty easy, bought all the equipment they used then started moving my own CNC's. One large company I bought some 20 ton CNC's from allowed me to move them myself with a Hold Harmless agreement. From then on that company has hired me to do their rigging. A couple of friends help out when needed and I rent big equipment when needed and have good relationships with local heavy haul outfits.

7-8 years ago I seriously considered going into the rigging business fulltime. I had an opportunity to buy a 36K rollback with an N14 and a couple friends that were up for more rigging work if it developed.

However, I wrote up a business plan. Crunched the numbers and came to the realization it was impossible to go into the machinery moving business fulltime without a substantial increase in overhead. Basically I could do jobs that I'm particularly well suited for now and then making a great margin at a low price to the customer, but if I wanted to do it all, keep a half dozen guys busy and own and maintain a fleet of trucks, forklifts and specialized equipment I'd have to charge the same as all the big rigging co's already in the local market.

So it's very interesting that building raising service was that low priced. I wonder if it's a fulltime everyday kinda deal for them or more of a side gig when the right job comes along they have all the right equipment for.

 

[MUDZLLA]

Some follow up:
-garage lift turned out well
- some hiccups with the city getting the final inspection of the pony wall reinforcement (in hindsight I probably wouldn't apply for a permit)
- note the plugs installed every 4 ft or so on the shop side of the garage
- used Rustoleum 1-part epoxy garage floor coating (seems to be holding up well so far)
- used 1x6 cedar for the baseboards - one mouse died trying to chew into it so thats a bonus of using cedar. It was also cheaper than pine for some reason.

Finally erected the lift - the whole point of raising the roof. A few problems - there are cracks and voids under the 30 yr old slab. Obviusly cant operate a lift on it, though the slab seems solid enough and around 4-1/2 to 5" thick. due to cracking I used chemical anchors (HILTI HIT 200Y). Some of the holes punche through into air so I called in a GPR tech to scan the floor around the pedestals and locate voids.

The area outlined around each column base will be pattern drilled on a 12" grid and nonshrink grout will be pumped in. I'm currently rigging up a pump using a hand diaphragm pump I picked up at Princess Auto (Canadian Version of Harbour Freight I think)

Outside appearance with gray siding, white trim, and 8ft high lift doors. I managed to install the siding, outside lights and security cameras myself... Also had a 200A service installed by the utility which subfeeds the house. In case EVs ever get useful batteries.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I know your remedy method will work but wouldn't it be easier to just cut out a 4' square under each column and pour 12" of 4000 psi concrete? (I know Rotary recommends something like those dimension for replacement slabs under the columns but I could be off a bit in the details.)

 

[MUDZLLA]

I know your remedy method will work but wouldn't it be easier to just cut out a 4' square under each column and pour 12" of 4000 psi concrete? (I know Rotary recommends something like those dimension for replacement slabs under the columns but I could be off a bit in the details.)

I definately thought about using that method, and I know Rotary recommends it. Unfortunately with the lift already put together it would have been quite a bit more work than injecting grout into drillrd holes. I should have done the Ground Penetrating Radar scan first but I hadn't thought about scanning until I drilled the anchor holes and started hitting voids.

The other thing I should have done is force epoxy into the cracks to make a structural connection before i sealed them. With the polyurethane sealant in there I have to rely on getting some integrity from the new grount placed below the slab.

In hindsight yes it would have been better to cut out the existing slab and pour a new base under each column. I would reccommend anyone else doing this to do exactly that. In fact skip the GPR scan and just cut it out if you are at all in doubt.

Thanks.

 

[Ol Yeller]

the final inspection of the pony wall reinforcement

My brother has this exact project looming…what was the end method for vertical bracing on the walls?

 

[MUDZLLA]

The inspector basically insisted on Qty(4) Simpson A23 brackets and an 18" Simpson Strap at each column... it was a pain to install and overkill if you do the calculations but it was the only way he would pass it. Also installed a 3/8 bolt with fender washers every 4ft.

 

[Ol Yeller]

The inspector basically insisted on Qty(4) Simpson A23 brackets and an 18" Simpson Strap at each column... it was a pain to install and overkill if you do the calculations but it was the only way he would pass it. Also installed a 3/8 bolt with fender washers every 4ft.
View attachment 3762328

Ok good to know, we wouldn’t be inspected but a good guideline to follow as it passed.

 

[PAToyota]

The inspector basically insisted on Qty(4) Simpson A23 brackets and an 18" Simpson Strap at each column... it was a pain to install and overkill if you do the calculations but it was the only way he would pass it. Also installed a 3/8 bolt with fender washers every 4ft.

Is the sheathing structural? Basically creating a shear plane?

As I mentioned earlier, I've seen situations like that where the wall has "folded" at the joint between walls - typically due to wind load. Or, at least, the wind issue was what started the issue. I've also seen a similar issue where a knee wall was built at a partial second floor where the roof ties into the knee wall and the lateral load pushes it over.