Builds 3 days and 3300 miles later

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Fairly white up here, but not a lot of it....at least not like where your at ;p We could use a little more of the stuff, local snowmobiler's would really like it I know that.

Matt



A couple feet could justify that KXMXOWO1RRR thing in Scotts garage.. ;)
Been a LONG TIME( '91) since anyplace in MN has seen that kind of snowfall...




Looking really good Matt man!


:beer: :beer:
 
3 hours on the lpb tonight, more roof stuff.

Not a lot of pics of the action, more of a before and after pic. Fixing that other end was just of a pain in the ass as the other side. Took at least 2 hours to get that right. After I got everything primed up and figured I could spot weld it back onto the roof. Lined up the old spot welds and clamped it down, spot welded it back on.

The metal work on the roof is done for the the most part. Might try to get started on the hood tomorrow...I'm thinking that might only take an evening to get wrapped up. I have Monday off so planning on finishing the hood if it isn't done tomorrow night and get all the metal work on the doors done. Then, it's start sanding and priming on everything and get it jambed.......might be all done with those parts in a week or 2?

Matt
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lid's on, so he should be just fine. my grinder sits inches from the solvent tank...lid's always closed though.
 
Matt
question on your painting technique. from your threads it looks like you shoot 4-5 coats of color then a couple coats of clear then color sand . is this right or do you color sand after the color paint then again after the clear coat. or do you treat the final outside coat different from the jamming and inside stuff?
thanks Jason
 
Got about 2.5 on the lpb tonight.

First few pics are of the piece that is spot welded to the hood all the way across just underneath the front lip. Ends were rotted up, cut them off...fabbed up new ones in the brake and welded on, turned out great. I plan on blasting the parts and priming before I weld them back in, that should happen tomorrow.

Next few pics are of one of the doors and the door bottoms I got from Real steel a month or so ago. Lined up the outside first with what was left of the door, marked and cut it off. I did the same with the inside of the door, only difference is I ground off about a 1/2" on the inside edge...wanted to get it closer to the bend on the door. After I got everything where I wanted it I started welding the outside skin first. I used these little tools that my neighbor had been using on his Ford project. I could describe them, but the pics pretty much say it all...after your done welding you loosen them up, slip the square stock out and slip it out, they work pretty good.

The door bottoms actually fit pretty decent, especially the outside one. The inside one was not as nice.....It fit except for the area where the weatherstipping goes along the edge. Took a pic of each side, you can see the lines and bends don't line up worth a sh-t. I think tomorrow I'm going to heat that area up with the torch and mold it into place. Should look good after that I think.

Got it tacked up and decided to call it a night. Got the other one marked, get going on that one tomorrow. I have tomorrow off so I plan on getting all my metal work done and start block sanding primer.

Matt
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FYI on the window track felt. I updated to the later rubber style from the 81-83 vintage. These are a MUCH BETTER quaility and seal. The older metal version is a pain in the a$$ to install and they rattle.

My .02 to a wonderfull resto
 
Matt
question on your painting technique. from your threads it looks like you shoot 4-5 coats of color then a couple coats of clear then color sand . is this right or do you color sand after the color paint then again after the clear coat. or do you treat the final outside coat different from the jamming and inside stuff?
thanks Jason

Jason,

If I'm spraying base/clear paint I usually shoot 2 to 3 coats of color. Then I shoot a couple coats of clear and then sand.

Outside coat is pretty much the same as the inside stuff, except for the fact I don't sand the clear on the inside stuff.

Hope this helps, Matt
 
You never cease to amaze me Matt. That is some serious fab work!

Hats off... BTW. I read this thread every day. That work prompted me to post. Great stuff. Cannot wait to see the finished product!
 
FYI on the window track felt. I updated to the later rubber style from the 81-83 vintage. These are a MUCH BETTER quaility and seal. The older metal version is a pain in the a$$ to install and they rattle.

My .02 to a wonderfull resto


Shane, the opening in the door for the window is wider on the 81-83 doors, how did you modify the door or did you use later doors? The felt on the inside is still the same piece right?, it's just the outer one that is changed. Thanks.
 
Those pinch-clamp-thingys are too cool!

Did he make them?
 
Just came back from Holiday travels, You've been busy!! Wow, amazing work!!


Were did the alignment blocks you used for the door skins come from?
 

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