Builds 3 days and 3300 miles later (2 Viewers)

[FLYINGLOW]

I hope you post some close up shots of the doors after you massage the inner panel.

One more question is are you using drill bits to drill out the spot welds? If so is there a reason for using drill bits instead of a rotor broach spot weld cutter?

 

[buckroseau]

Got a solid day in the lpb today, about 8 hours.

First few pics are of the hood. Blasted the inner edge of the hood since there was surface rust up underneath there after I removed those parts. Blasted the other pieces and sprayed a coat of primer on everything. Clamped up the pieces aligning them with the old holes and welded everything back up, then ground down the welds. Turned out great I think.

Then went to work on the doors again. Didn't take any pics of the other side getting cut, but it went about the same as the other side. Slowly worked back and forth from each door tacking a little bit at a time keeping it cool. I had to cut those inner edges and massage it into place. Afer it was massaged in where I wanted, welded it up with the door. Should be a pic after one side was welded and then ground down. Pretty much matches the factory one. Ground down the all the welds, overall very happy with how it turned out. Probably spread a paper thin coat of filler on the lower half of the doors and then block it out. I think 90% of it is going to be sanded off, but at least I know it will be straight.

Hung everything up and shot a coat of DP50LF on all the bare steel, doors, hood and a little bit on the roof cap. Probably start sanding parts tomorrow......

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

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[buckroseau]

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[buckroseau]

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[buckroseau]

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[buckroseau]

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[buckroseau]

Those pinch-clamp-thingys are too cool!

Did he make them?

Just came back from Holiday travels, You've been busy!! Wow, amazing work!!


Were did the alignment blocks you used for the door skins come from?

I'm not sure where he got them? I know he bought a half dozen or so and them made a few more after he saw how simple they were. They do work great for that application though!

I'll ask him tomorrow where he got them and get back to you.

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

I hope you post some close up shots of the doors after you massage the inner panel.

One more question is are you using drill bits to drill out the spot welds? If so is there a reason for using drill bits instead of a rotor broach spot weld cutter?

Pics of the inner panel should be posted.

I have a rotor broach spot weld cutter, it works ok. I found that using a pilot point drill bit works better and is much faster. I usually use a 5/16" bit, it helps to drill a 1/8" hole through it first, but you don't have to. You kinda get the feel for it as it penetrates the first layer of sheet metal. The end result is a hole in the first layer of metal, but not the second.

Matt

 

[Red Fox Ranch]

This thread is awesome, I've been following it religiously, incredible work and very inspiring. You can get those clamps at www.eastwood.com among many, many other helpful resto products.

Take care!

 

[FLYINGLOW]

Pics of the inner panel should be posted.

I have a rotor broach spot weld cutter, it works ok. I found that using a pilot point drill bit works better and is much faster. I usually use a 5/16" bit, it helps to drill a 1/8" hole through it first, but you don't have to. You kinda get the feel for it as it penetrates the first layer of sheet metal. The end result is a hole in the first layer of metal, but not the second.

Matt

Thanks Matt. I will give the drill bit a try, I have only used the rotor broach in the past. I have a medium size project coming up. I know what you mean about the 1/8 pilot hole for the cutter. I find that if you follow the directions, the center punch doesn't hold the tip properly.

 

[Coolerman]

I'm not sure where he got them? I know he bought a half dozen or so and them made a few more after he saw how simple they were. They do work great for that application though!

I'll ask him tomorrow where he got them and get back to you.

Matt

I got mine from E-Bay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/4-New-Butt-Weld...633QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item110072133036

EastWood Company http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=1159&itemType=PRODUCT also sells them.

Excellent work blending those inside patch panels to the old ones!

 

[merbesfield]

Matt, very nice work usual. What do you do at the door lip with regards to the factory bent lip? Also, what happens around the drain holes?

 

[buckroseau]

Matt, very nice work usual. What do you do at the door lip with regards to the factory bent lip? Also, what happens around the drain holes?

Not exactly sure what your talking about on the factory bent lip. But, if it is what I'm thinking, the bottom of the door comes with the bent lip and is already done and ready to go.

As far as the drain holes.....that is factory, nothing happens around them....they are left open.

Matt

 

[dieselcruiserhead]

Matt is that weldable primer you use? Seems to work regardless?

 

[buckroseau]

About 3.5 on the lpb tonight....pretty much spread plastic and sanded.

Time consuming stuff, but everything is straight. Everything I spread is extremely thin, most of it is on the doors, but had to do a little on the hood also. There was a little dent there, pounded it out but you could still feel it. Probably could have got the one on the hood with a few coats of primer, but since I had the sauce out..figured I would just take care of it.

Shot a couple coats of ureathane primer on everything. Hoping to block the doors out to 80 grit tomorrow and the hood and roof out to 150.

Matt

 

[buckroseau]

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[buckroseau]

Matt is that weldable primer you use? Seems to work regardless?

No, almost everything I use is PPG's DP line of epoxy primer. If I am going to weld I usually grind the edge back to bare metal. Sometimes you do have to burn through.

Matt

 

[cruiser ken]

Matt, are you concerned about rust under the support at the back of the hood - the one you didn't pull or did it look good? Just curious.

 

[merbesfield]

Not exactly sure what your talking about on the factory bent lip. But, if it is what I'm thinking, the bottom of the door comes with the bent lip and is already done and ready to go.

As far as the drain holes.....that is factory, nothing happens around them....they are left open.

Matt

I thought that the outer skin wrapped around the inner skin like the upper door skin does. I was looking at the upper portion where you made the cut and saw the bent lip so I thought the lower was the same. I now realize the difference. That definitely makes it a little easier. Nice work. Do you seam seal that joint on the lower lip?