Zjohnsonua
SILVER Star
This is NOT a thread to compare the UZ to the LS or any other platform. Hundreds of those already exist, carry on those discussions elsewhere, please.
Many threads exist in Mud asking about what's involved in swapping Toyota's 4.7L V8, the 2UZ-FE, but few of us that have done them chime in to help the decisions for the next guy, and the threads quickly become messy. Let's see about changing that. There are a handful of builds already in here that I'll add for reference.
I will not remember everything off the top of my head, so please ask questions and help construct this thread! Here's some general information that I share with people regarding this project to get things going:
- Toyota doesn't change interfaces often for critical parts, especially inside of a platform. Toyota is like Legos. Keep this in mind as you move through your project and are looking for a solution. (e.g. UZ oil filter mounts - I've seen 6 IIRC - pick the one that best suits your application - LS430 works well)
- Use the LC/LX oil pan/baffle/pickup assembly. Either get one from a core engine or buy them new (roughly $800 as of this writing). There are a couple pan options that you'll look at and think "I can make that work" - they're compromises - I discourage you from taking those routes.
- Many donor trucks came with immobilizer circuits. Some did not. The immobilizer can be removed - these guys perform the service. I recommend keeping the circuit as it's easy to work with so long as you get the immobilizer ECU, which if you buy a donor, you'll already have. No more worrying about your old Toyota being hi-jacked, just take the key with you.
- Buy a donor. The small parts you can get from them add up in a hurry. All the clamps, brackets, hardware, wire...this stuff adds up. and the OE stuff is WAY better than anything from the aftermarket.
- Use a 4th gen 4R fuel pump. They're affordable, widely available, and fit the factory drop in. You need to use something like S13025 (oreilly PN for reference) for a strainer. Needs to be 7/16" port with a side feed to clear properly. There are two 4th gen pumps, one has 1/8" terminals, the other has 1/4"...get the matching connector and go.
- The wiring is no worse than other platforms, it's just different. And it's less documented. We'll see about changing that here.
- As you clip away circuits, make sure and tie every ground from the ECU to the body, preferably in the same grouping that the EWD shows. Clean your grounds before installation.
- 1st gen Sequoia's air tube fits the best for most applications. 4th gen 4Runner's airbox stacks well, too.
- The A750 transmission shifts much smoother if it maintains a 180-190ish oil temp. You want to use a radiator with trans oil cooling. You also want a trans cooler ahead of the radiator oil flow path.
- You need a LC/LX transmission (either A343F or A750F, for most US readers) if you intend to use an LC case. This is because the LC cases (HF2A/HF2AV) require a longer trans output shaft.
- The A750 comes in several PN variants, main changes are the output shaft, tail housing, and an additional clutch/steel in some models. The scaries like sensors and switches swap over.
- The A343 comes in several variants, too. toojayzee did an excellent write up on this.
- Electric or mechanical fans - that's your call. Mech fans clear with no issue in both 60 and 80 series, even with the large clutch from the 100-series. You'll need to build a shroud obviously. I ran electrics for a bit and ran too warm for my comfort in ambients over 110F with AC running. Mech fan deleted this problem.
- 2wd or 4wd donor? They both offer perks. 2wd wiring is simpler as the 4wd circuit is absent. You'll enable 4wd with an ON/OFF switch of your choosing to control the CDL ECU and the engine ECU will be none the wiser. 4wd ECUs enable less abrupt shifting when in 4wd.
- Driveshafts and crossmember? I would plan on changing both. You'll end up with a better final product.
- A750 came with two shifter types, cable or linkage. Cable came on 4R and GX. I prefer cable as it's more compact and lets me put the shifter exactly where I want it. You need to change the detent arm in the transmission if you use a cable shifter on an LC trans.
FJ40 swaps: here's one from @UZJ40 and here's another from @Bripars40.
FJ60 swaps: My 60 is the only one that I know of a thread for.
80 swaps: @toojayzee listed above and Skitz's are good starting points
Please add other threads if you know of them.
These are broad strokes. Contribute, and we'll keep the thread going.
Many threads exist in Mud asking about what's involved in swapping Toyota's 4.7L V8, the 2UZ-FE, but few of us that have done them chime in to help the decisions for the next guy, and the threads quickly become messy. Let's see about changing that. There are a handful of builds already in here that I'll add for reference.
I will not remember everything off the top of my head, so please ask questions and help construct this thread! Here's some general information that I share with people regarding this project to get things going:
- Toyota doesn't change interfaces often for critical parts, especially inside of a platform. Toyota is like Legos. Keep this in mind as you move through your project and are looking for a solution. (e.g. UZ oil filter mounts - I've seen 6 IIRC - pick the one that best suits your application - LS430 works well)
- Use the LC/LX oil pan/baffle/pickup assembly. Either get one from a core engine or buy them new (roughly $800 as of this writing). There are a couple pan options that you'll look at and think "I can make that work" - they're compromises - I discourage you from taking those routes.
- Many donor trucks came with immobilizer circuits. Some did not. The immobilizer can be removed - these guys perform the service. I recommend keeping the circuit as it's easy to work with so long as you get the immobilizer ECU, which if you buy a donor, you'll already have. No more worrying about your old Toyota being hi-jacked, just take the key with you.
- Buy a donor. The small parts you can get from them add up in a hurry. All the clamps, brackets, hardware, wire...this stuff adds up. and the OE stuff is WAY better than anything from the aftermarket.
- Use a 4th gen 4R fuel pump. They're affordable, widely available, and fit the factory drop in. You need to use something like S13025 (oreilly PN for reference) for a strainer. Needs to be 7/16" port with a side feed to clear properly. There are two 4th gen pumps, one has 1/8" terminals, the other has 1/4"...get the matching connector and go.
- The wiring is no worse than other platforms, it's just different. And it's less documented. We'll see about changing that here.
- As you clip away circuits, make sure and tie every ground from the ECU to the body, preferably in the same grouping that the EWD shows. Clean your grounds before installation.
- 1st gen Sequoia's air tube fits the best for most applications. 4th gen 4Runner's airbox stacks well, too.
- The A750 transmission shifts much smoother if it maintains a 180-190ish oil temp. You want to use a radiator with trans oil cooling. You also want a trans cooler ahead of the radiator oil flow path.
- You need a LC/LX transmission (either A343F or A750F, for most US readers) if you intend to use an LC case. This is because the LC cases (HF2A/HF2AV) require a longer trans output shaft.
- The A750 comes in several PN variants, main changes are the output shaft, tail housing, and an additional clutch/steel in some models. The scaries like sensors and switches swap over.
- The A343 comes in several variants, too. toojayzee did an excellent write up on this.
- Electric or mechanical fans - that's your call. Mech fans clear with no issue in both 60 and 80 series, even with the large clutch from the 100-series. You'll need to build a shroud obviously. I ran electrics for a bit and ran too warm for my comfort in ambients over 110F with AC running. Mech fan deleted this problem.
- 2wd or 4wd donor? They both offer perks. 2wd wiring is simpler as the 4wd circuit is absent. You'll enable 4wd with an ON/OFF switch of your choosing to control the CDL ECU and the engine ECU will be none the wiser. 4wd ECUs enable less abrupt shifting when in 4wd.
- Driveshafts and crossmember? I would plan on changing both. You'll end up with a better final product.
- A750 came with two shifter types, cable or linkage. Cable came on 4R and GX. I prefer cable as it's more compact and lets me put the shifter exactly where I want it. You need to change the detent arm in the transmission if you use a cable shifter on an LC trans.
FJ40 swaps: here's one from @UZJ40 and here's another from @Bripars40.
FJ60 swaps: My 60 is the only one that I know of a thread for.
80 swaps: @toojayzee listed above and Skitz's are good starting points
Please add other threads if you know of them.
These are broad strokes. Contribute, and we'll keep the thread going.
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