2LTE Head Replacement (1 Viewer)

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S

seeburglar

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Hey, I have a 1992 Hilux Surf with a 2lte engine and it has blown a head gasket (Shocker). I have heard that people often replace the head with a 3L head, as it is built better and wont overheat. However, I have been unable to find any more details other than that. So I'm looking into the logistics, and I am wondering if there is a specific engine that lines up properly? In particular I am looking at this head and wondering if it will work... 1993 Toyota Pickup 3.0L Engine Cylinder Head -CH950L. I'm also curious as to what head gasket to use, should I use one for the 3L or for the 2.4?
Thanks for the help, I apologize if this has already been covered.

Side note, I also am looking at replacing the injectors, but I haven't been able to find anything for this engine.
 
Toyota produced 2nd generation cylinder heads for both the 2LTE and 3L engines. Both are improved over the first generations ones. There is a rumor there was actually a recall in Japan for the first generation ones. Basically every first generation one is almost guaranteed to fail in the first 100,000kms. Some people think they have beat the odds, but more likely their head has already been done in Japan (mine was). The second generation ones have lasted well over 200,000kms (and still going) in most of the rigs that have been in Canada for the last 12 years already. They are a pretty major fix, but some other maintenance is needed to keep the motor happy for years to come. Things like servicing the viscous clutch fan, and upgrading the thermostat, coolant flush etc.

Toyota continued making the 2LT-II and 2LTE all the way until about 2002. The first generation heads that had the problems were just the first three-four years of production or so (I think until around 1994). The later generations motors are well regarded in Europe where they continued to be produced.

I recommend buying the second generation 2LTE one over the second generation 3L one. It's a little more pricey, but I suspect Toyota did somethings different between the two.

I also recommend buying ONLY a Toyota OEM cylinder head and gasket set. Most recommend buying new head bolts too. Don't buy any aftermarket cylinder heads, as many have regretted that decision with all sorts of failures.

The 1st gen 2LTE head that had issues is Toyota part number: 11101-54120
The 2nd gen 2LTE head that is improved is Toyota part number: 11101-54121

The 1st gen 3L head that I would not trust either is Toyota part number: 11101-54130
The 2nd gen 3L head is Toyota part number: 11101-54131

There are a few vendors on these forums that can get you all the OEM parts. If you do the work yourself, you'll learn lots about your motor, and save yourself at least $2000. Do the water pump and timing belt while you're at the job.

The injectors go for a long time before they really need servicing. How many kms are you at? I'd say in general they're good for at least 250,000km before a rebuild is needed. Many at 300,000km + are still fine. It's easy to pull them and get them tested if in doubt.
 
How many hours does the head replacement take?

Is there a video or How to on this? I have a replacement 3L head.
Its going to have to be rebuilt. It would be nice to have a guide....
 
Yoyota said:
How many hours does the head replacement take?

Is there a video or How to on this? I have a replacement 3L head.
Its going to have to be rebuilt. It would be nice to have a guide....
Click to expand...

No video that I know of. Just download the .pdf manual for the motor and follow each step meticulously.
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
Toyota produced 2nd generation cylinder heads for both the 2LTE and 3L engines. Both are improved over the first generations ones. There is a rumor there was actually a recall in Japan for the first generation ones. Basically every first generation one is almost guaranteed to fail in the first 100,000kms. Some people think they have beat the odds, but more likely their head has already been done in Japan (mine was). The second generation ones have lasted well over 200,000kms (and still going) in most of the rigs that have been in Canada for the last 12 years already. They are a pretty major fix, but some other maintenance is needed to keep the motor happy for years to come. Things like servicing the viscous clutch fan, and upgrading the thermostat, coolant flush etc.

Toyota continued making the 2LT-II and 2LTE all the way until about 2002. The first generation heads that had the problems were just the first three-four years of production or so (I think until around 1994). The later generations motors are well regarded in Europe where they continued to be produced.

I recommend buying the second generation 2LTE one over the second generation 3L one. It's a little more pricey, but I suspect Toyota did somethings different between the two.

I also recommend buying ONLY a Toyota OEM cylinder head and gasket set. Most recommend buying new head bolts too. Don't buy any aftermarket cylinder heads, as many have regretted that decision with all sorts of failures.

The 1st gen 2LTE head that had issues is Toyota part number: 11101-54120
The 2nd gen 2LTE head that is improved is Toyota part number: 11101-54121

The 1st gen 3L head that I would not trust either is Toyota part number: 11101-54130
The 2nd gen 3L head is Toyota part number: 11101-54131

There are a few vendors on these forums that can get you all the OEM parts. If you do the work yourself, you'll learn lots about your motor, and save yourself at least $2000. Do the water pump and timing belt while you're at the job.

The injectors go for a long time before they really need servicing. How many kms are you at? I'd say in general they're good for at least 250,000km before a rebuild is needed. Many at 300,000km + are still fine. It's easy to pull them and get them tested if in doubt.
Click to expand...

11101-54131 is the only one you can get since it supersedes 11101-54130 which is no longer a valid PN.

Hope that helps.
 
Yoyota said:
How many hours does the head replacement take?

Is there a video or How to on this? I have a replacement 3L head.
Its going to have to be rebuilt. It would be nice to have a guide....
Click to expand...

I forgot the hours parts. This really depends on how familiar you are with the engine, what sort of tool selection you have, and how experience at wrenching you are in general. I'd say as a minimum in a DIY shop, it'll take you4- 5 hours to get the head off, and 4-5 hours to get it back on. There will be a bunch of work in between cleaning parts, and getting the valve train/head sorted out at a machine shop. Cleaning the block deck and the cylinder head bolt holes is very important and quite time consuming. So you could have quite a few hours of work getting everything ready to go back together.
 
Working on this 2l-TE engine. Just started. The seals on the turbo are done, cooked, toast and faulty. Would this lead to overheating? Other weird symptoms are: The oil fill hole has exhaust flowing out of it in a big way. I filled the radiator and started the motor and coolant spewed forth violently. Could all this be as a result of the turbo having shot seals?
 
Yoyota said:
Working on this 2l-TE engine. Just started. The seals on the turbo are done, cooked, toast and faulty. Would this lead to overheating? Other weird symptoms are: The oil fill hole has exhaust flowing out of it in a big way. I filled the radiator and started the motor and coolant spewed forth violently. Could all this be as a result of the turbo having shot seals?
Click to expand...


Failed turbo seals will not cause all those other problems.

If you have a lot of blow-by (worn cylinder/piston-rings) you will get exhaust coming out of the oil fill hole. An engine rebuild is really the only way to fix this. That said, all these L series get some air movement when you revmove the oil fill cap. Do the tea kettle lid test: unscrew the oil fill cap and let it sit in the oil fill hole with the engine running. See how much it dances around. No dance = no blow-by. A bit of dance is a bit of blow-by. If the cap gets blown right out of the hole you definitely have too much blow-by.

Sadly the coolant overflow is a sure sign of a cracked cylinder head.

You have a lot of work ahead of you. Could rebuild that motor, or find another one in better shape to swap in. Or upgrade to a better engine.

Take some videos and post them if you want more ideas.
 
There is no exhaust coming out of the oil fill tube, so I think that the rings are fine. That being said, you got me thinking that maybe it is better to get a newer motor instead of repairing this one? Another question I have is whether the gasket kit for the head will have new turbo seals? Where would the best place be to start looking for another engine?
 
Turbo seals can be pretty easy to take care of with a new turbo or CHRA, or if you’re ambitious a seal kit.
 
@Yoyota , The Turbo Gasket Kit and the Engine Overhaul Gasket Kits are separate kits.

Regarding a replacement motor, I bought a 2LTII engine from a JDM guy in Los Angeles. Just some things to consider. If yours is rebuildable, I'd rebuild it. The 2LTE engine you get from any importer most probably will not have any history with it. They will claim it has less than 50,000 miles...but nothing to back that up with. Also, the engine will have been dropped a few times between Japan and getting to your location...this means bent, dented, and broken parts (turbo shields, power steering pump, oil pan, etc).

In the end everything worked out for me and the engine I got had great compression. GTSSporteCoupe helped me out a lot getting her up and running. Just hit the pause button for a second before dropping $2500-3500 on a used engine and price out the parts for your rebuild and if you have the tools and time.

PM me if you want to take the used replacement engine route. I can point you in the direction of a couple of suppliers.
 
Last edited:
I agree with the guys above. ALL pre 1995 2LT-II and 2LTE's WILL need a new cylinder head within the first 150,000km or so. No if ands or buts. So, if your engine is decent shape, and it's just the original head that has gone, just spend the money and put the new revision head on. The new revision head lasts much longer (more like 200,000-300,000km), and you'll have peace of mind that you're good to go for a long time.
 
On my first Prado I bought a cheap (about $200) Chinese turbo off eBay. It seemed to work well and came preset with higher than stock boost (15psi IIRC). However, after I sold that vehicle the wastegate broke off the bracket and caused a large boost leak; the wastegste was designed differently than stock and was only attached to the bracket by three small spot welds. The rest of the turbo seemed like it was pretty good quality.
 
Turbo seals do not blow or fail. They are labyrinth type and always leak inwards. When they leak outwards it means your engine has too much blowby and is pressurising internally.

Clean the turbo and it'll be fine. Your engine has blowby issues as well as head issues. A new (to you) engine of unknown origin is not as good as a rebuilt engine. It is a gamble.
 
Dougal said:
Turbo seals do not blow or fail. They are labyrinth type and always leak inwards. When they leak outwards it means your engine has too much blowby and is pressurising internally.

Clean the turbo and it'll be fine. Your engine has blowby issues as well as head issues. A new (to you) engine of unknown origin is not as good as a rebuilt engine. It is a gamble.
Click to expand...

So If I understand you correctly, once I get the head replaced, there should be less blowby, therefore all I have to do is clean the turbo?
 
Basically, yes.
I wouldn't automatically assume the worst about the turbo with all the other issues you have going on. Clean your existing turbo up and give it a try. Turbos are actually pretty tough. Don't vent your engine back into the intake when you reassemble. That is the cause of a lot of the oil people see in their turbo, not actually any leaking of the turbo itself.
 
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