2LTE Head Replacement (1 Viewer)

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Toyota produced 2nd generation cylinder heads for both the 2LTE and 3L engines. Both are improved over the first generations ones. There is a rumor there was actually a recall in Japan for the first generation ones. Basically every first generation one is almost guaranteed to fail in the first 100,000kms. Some people think they have beat the odds, but more likely their head has already been done in Japan (mine was). The second generation ones have lasted well over 200,000kms (and still going) in most of the rigs that have been in Canada for the last 12 years already. They are a pretty major fix, but some other maintenance is needed to keep the motor happy for years to come. Things like servicing the viscous clutch fan, and upgrading the thermostat, coolant flush etc.

Toyota continued making the 2LT-II and 2LTE all the way until about 2002. The first generation heads that had the problems were just the first three-four years of production or so (I think until around 1994). The later generations motors are well regarded in Europe where they continued to be produced.

I recommend buying the second generation 2LTE one over the second generation 3L one. It's a little more pricey, but I suspect Toyota did somethings different between the two.

I also recommend buying ONLY a Toyota OEM cylinder head and gasket set. Most recommend buying new head bolts too. Don't buy any aftermarket cylinder heads, as many have regretted that decision with all sorts of failures.

The 1st gen 2LTE head that had issues is Toyota part number: 11101-54120
The 2nd gen 2LTE head that is improved is Toyota part number: 11101-54121

The 1st gen 3L head that I would not trust either is Toyota part number: 11101-54130
The 2nd gen 3L head is Toyota part number: 11101-54131

There are a few vendors on these forums that can get you all the OEM parts. If you do the work yourself, you'll learn lots about your motor, and save yourself at least $2000. Do the water pump and timing belt while you're at the job.

The injectors go for a long time before they really need servicing. How many kms are you at? I'd say in general they're good for at least 250,000km before a rebuild is needed. Many at 300,000km + are still fine. It's easy to pull them and get them tested if in doubt.
Hello,

Is there anyway to tell if i have the 1st gen or 2nd gen head? It looks like the head gasket was done by the previous owner in japan. I am suspecting the head could have been replaced as well. Is there a part number on the head i could look for?

Thank you
 
Hello,

Is there anyway to tell if i have the 1st gen or 2nd gen head? It looks like the head gasket was done by the previous owner in japan. I am suspecting the head could have been replaced as well. Is there a part number on the head i could look for?

Thank you

Short answer, No, there is no easy way to tell. Long answer, Yes, there are clues you can look for to see if it's been done before. It's been discussed in detail a number of times, so try searching.

If your head gasket was done, almost 100% guaranteed the head was done too. The gaskets never fail (if installed right - which they were from OEM). So if the head has been off, it's probably because the head failed and was replaced.
 
Short answer, No, there is no easy way to tell. Long answer, Yes, there are clues you can look for to see if it's been done before. It's been discussed in detail a number of times, so try searching.

If your head gasket was done, almost 100% guaranteed the head was done too. The gaskets never fail (if installed right - which they were from OEM). So if the head has been off, it's probably because the head failed and was replaced.
That was fast.

Thank you
 
Would this be a parts list for 2LTE or Turbo'd 3l for head replacement?


QuantityProductStock Number
1HEAD SUB-ASSEMBLY, CYLINDER1110154121
1GASKET KIT, ENGINE OVERHAUL0411154094
1GASKET, CYLINDER HEAD . MARK F1111554073F0
14BOLT(FOR CYLINDER HEAD SET)9091002080
4BOLT(FOR CYLINDER HEAD SET)9091002081
 
So I had the head replaced and used the water-less coolant. about 2 years ago. Generally I just use my truck to run around town. Today I was going to drive 480 km and two things happened.
1) I noticed that that heat gauge was in the red pretty much the entire trip.
2) When I looked at the engine, the main rad hose that comes from the thermostat was collapsed like it was sucked close.
(Oh and my tranny leaked so much fluid that I had to turn around)
Any thoughts on why this happened?
If I did not have the water-less coolant I would have been up the creek!
Is it normal for the engine to run in the red constantly? I was doing about 90-100 km hour.
Thanks for any feed back.
Yoyo
 
Definitely not normal for the engine to be running in the red, that is probably in the 220ºF range if mine are anything to go by. Based on that and the collapsed rad hose it sounds like you have a coolant flow issue; I would suggest checking the entire cooling system thoroughly for any flow restrictions.
 
So I had the head replaced and used the water-less coolant. about 2 years ago. Generally I just use my truck to run around town. Today I was going to drive 480 km and two things happened.
1) I noticed that that heat gauge was in the red pretty much the entire trip.
2) When I looked at the engine, the main rad hose that comes from the thermostat was collapsed like it was sucked close.
(Oh and my tranny leaked so much fluid that I had to turn around)
Any thoughts on why this happened?
If I did not have the water-less coolant I would have been up the creek!
Is it normal for the engine to run in the red constantly? I was doing about 90-100 km hour.
Thanks for any feed back.
Yoyo


Thats not normal, and I'm happy you had waterless coolant given how hot you ran it. I've run mine that hot before for extended periods while towing in summer. I hate it, but it hasn't wrecked anything. Main thing is what oil were you running? Hopefully 15w40. I'd recommend changing it, as it can break down after running so hot.

I have heard of the rad hoses collapsing before on these motors when they get old and soft. Buy new ones asap, and replace your thermostat with the 82C OEM version as well. Check your rad condition too. Use megazip to find part numbers, and order from partsouq.

I hope your trans is ok. Was the torque converter locking up ok before this? Possibly it's not working, was slipping lots and added huge heat.
 
Hate to hijack this thread yeads later, but it seems like there are some very knowledgeable folks in here. I pulled my head on 92 2LTE LN130 today and found cracks I haven’t seen anywhere else yet. The crack between the valves is the one to be expected, but every single injector seat at the base is full cracked… any ideas on what causes this?

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Those are cracked precups, pretty common on a lot of older IDI diesels including the 3B and 2H. It is a replaceable part, but I don’t know if they’re still available new.
 

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