Builds 2L-T vs 2L-TII LJ70 Build (1 Viewer)

[GTSSportCoupe]

Nice progress! Good work!

If you get a chance, can you take a picture down into your intake manifold where the blue bag is in your last picture? I'm just curious how the 2LT-II is different than the 2LTE there.

 

[Dprio34]

I am on the road for a few days. Will snap some more pics when I get back home, Nick.
I am curious what the proper technique is to remove that plate/butterfly valve.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I am on the road for a few days. Will snap some more pics when I get back home, Nick.
I am curious what the proper technique is to remove that plate/butterfly valve.


View attachment 1411429

Thanks for that picture! So you do have a throttle plate in that motor too. Interesting.

The way most of have removed it is by drilling those little screws out, and sliding the throttle plate out. You can try to remove the screws with a screw driver, but I doubt it'll work. I think they use permanent loctite or peen the end of the screws to keep it from falling apart.

It is worth removing though. I've had no regrets. Off idle torque is improved a lot. And the motor/turbo will cool faster at idle, as the motor can draw more air. Probably will help lengthen the life of the cylinder head, precups, and maybe even the turbo.

 

[Dprio34]

Well, back to work on this 2L-T swap. I am running into many complications as anticipated. Exhaust is going to have to be re-worked since the flange angle coming off of the turbos are different. Throttle linkage is completely different as well .

 

[Dprio34]

First Gen 2L-T Coolant Hoses also differ from 2L-TII.

EDIT: 2L-TII / 2L-TE Coolant hoses - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/2l-tii-2l-te-coolant-hoses.1235503/#post-13587715

 

[Dprio34]

Here is how I removed the throttle plate.
Plate was sandwiched between rod with 2 peened screws/bolts holding the plate in place.
I drilled out the bolts and pulled the plate out with pliers.
Grinded down the ends of rod and reinstalled.

Definitely less clutter under the hood now.

View attachment 1413913

 

[Dprio34]

Well, I just put in another 8 hour day on this project. Over 80 hours into this engine swap project so far. Bottom line for anyone importing a Toyota with a 2L-T in it, I would recommend NOT doing it (just on the basis of spares non-availability). I am gonna be very surprized if this project all comes together. But I am going to press on.

To recap, I replaced a 2L-T (LHD) motor with a 2L-TII (RHD - JDM motor). It is turning out to be the nightmare I expected after I realized this motor was not the same as the original that was in my LJ70. Other than the displacement and motor mount bracket locations, just about everything is different on a 2L-TII motor than the older 2L-T version...crank pulley diameter & water pump pulley diameter, radiator fan diameter, throttle cable cam locations, engine harnesses, injection pump, glow plugs, glow plug rail, flywheel, clutch, turbo, and turbo exhaust down pipe, which affect exhaust alignment.

At this point, I am not so worried about doing the custom exhaust, but I am concerned about the 2mm clearance between the alternator to crank belts and the Power Steering tensioning bracket and PS pulleys.

I am a little bummed out, but live an learn.

Since this post, I found any excellent detailed write-up by LORD HESCA that would further discourage anyone from doing this conversion. Spend the extra $5K and get the 1HZ motor. Here is the link and the actual work involved less pics.

Toyota 2L2 Turbo Engine???? in Hilux Vehicle and Technical Discussions Forum

 

[JimmyPrado]

Ouch, brother. Consider yourself a trailblazer!

 

[Dprio34]

Well, if I get it running, Jimmy, it will be a trail blazed...I am just a little fearful I am on the dumba$$ side of this curve at this point.
I will keep posting until I get her running or throw my hands up in dispair. I think, I am about 3 working days from finding where exactly I stand on the curve.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Sorry to hear it's been so tough! Keep at it! You'll know your motor very well by the end of all this.

 

[Dprio34]

Thanks again for the help and support Nick. If you get a chance can you reference the pics above and see if your motor has the 2 "tees" on the coolant lines and tell me where they terminate. I think it may have been something specific to the (RHD) motor. Cooling or Heating something. I am just going to plug them off for now until someone tells me something different.

Also, could you snap a pic of your throttle cable hold down and attach or send a PM.

Thanks.
Don

View attachment 1528931

View attachment 1528932

 

[advlars]

Don,
My motors a little different but could those coolant lines be for an ACSD on the fuel pump? It could be for that or the turbo. Not sure why they would have been cut though...

Lars

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thanks again for the help and support Nick. If you get a chance can you reference the pics above and see if your motor has the 2 "tees" on the coolant lines and tell me where they terminate. I think it may have been something specific to the (RHD) motor. Cooling or Heating something. I am just going to plug them off for now until someone tells me something different.

Also, could you snap a pic of your throttle cable hold down and attach or send a PM.

Thanks.
Don

Hey Don. The coolant outlet on the 2LTE is setup a little different, but I do also have those two small hoses in that area. On mine they go to the throttle body. To keep it warm. Since I've removed my throttle, I've been meaning to disconnect them.

It looks like on your motor you don't have any connection at your throttle body for those lines. Like Lars says above ^^ there is a really good chance they were for the ACSD on your pump (for cold start timing advance). Many people remove that device though, as they are prone to failure. So perhaps yours has been removed?

There are some pictures here of the intake side of my motor from before I intercooled it. Not sure if they'll help or not, as the 2LTE throttle linkage is pretty different: PradoEngine by Nicolas Braam

There are guys on here with 70 series with the 2LT-II as it came from the factory. Hopefully they can chime in with some pictures.

 

[Dprio34]

Don,
My motors a little different but could those coolant lines be for an ACSD on the fuel pump? It could be for that or the turbo. Not sure why they would have been cut though...

Lars

There are lines to my Injection Pump, but these are different (a bit smaller diameter). I am just going to plug them off.

 

[Dprio34]

I made a little more progress today. I installed the Alternator Tension Bracket (Fan Belt Adjustment Bar), and off course they are different between models.

The 2L-TII alternator tension bracket is integral to the AC Compressor Bracket.

I had to "pack out" the bracket from the old motor with 3 washers and source a longer 12mm x 1.25 bolt because the Timing Belt Casing is "fatter" on the 2L-TIiI and would have interfered or I would have cracked the aluminum casing if I had tightened these bolts down to the block.

 

[Dprio34]

Here are the "V" Belts for the 2L-TII. Crank Shaft Pulley to Alternator Pulley does come as a set. It comes with "2" belts. So no need to buy "2" sets if you order from Toyota. Vane Pump / PS Pump is the same as for 1st and 2nd Gen 2L-T. The Alternator Belts were close in size for both 2L-Ts, but just FYI, the Alternator Belts do have different part numbers.

First Gen 2L-T Belts are:
Alternator Belts come in a set: 90916-02281
Vane Pump Belt: 99332-10865

Second Gen 2L-TII Belts are:
Alternator Belt set: 90916-02211
Vane Pump / PS Belt: 99332-10865

 

[Dprio34]

I tried turning the engine over today and it did not "light off". I am not getting 6 volts at the glow plugs. I am really scratching my head.

Main Glow Plug Timer illuminates dash light for 2 seconds per shop manual.
Main Glow Plug Relay is "clicking" when keyed to "ON"

I verified the Glow Plug Current Sensor, and it had 6 volts at the "black" wire at the sensor. The "red" wire had zero volts.

I was forced to cut the "Glow Plug Current Sensor" connection in order to splice the wires directly to the wires on the glow plug rail.

The old black wire at the old glow plug current sensor connecion has 6 volts when keyed "ON" and the red wire has zero volts.

Voltage however is not transmitting up to the rail. The solenoid is clicking, but I am getting zero volts on the glow plug bus bar. Battery is weak after all the trouble shooting, so put it on the charger.

I am done for today. Hopefully better luck tomorrow.

 

[Dprio34]

Well, I am calling it quits for the day after just 4 hours of electrical trouble shooting. I tried all possible combinations without any luck.
I stopped early today because am trying to avoid the "insane" definition of repeating the same thing over and over expecting a different outcome.

If anyone has any electrical experience on these old 2L-T wiring harnesses I would love to hear from them.

1. Battery has 12.5 volts
2. Glow Plug Current Sensor, at the black wire has 6 volts when keyed to "ON"
3. However, When a load is put on this wire / I run a jumper up to the bus bar, voltage drops to ZERO on the black wire.
Does this sound normal to anyone? Or does anyone kow what may be causing this?

4. Is it possible to damage the glow plug timer relay or main glow plug relay by trying different wiring combinations?

 

[Dprio34]

Many thanks go out to Nick, who has helped me sort out so much of this project. I would be seriously up the creek at this point without him.

Some progress was made today as the glow plug problem seems to be coming from the current sensor.

The older 2L-T uses a 2 wire current sensor and the new 2L-TII uses a one wire current sensor.
We are trying to adapt the old harness to run a newer generation/design engine with a different head design and glow plug rail.

On the first attempt, I cut the grey plastic connector off (pictured above) and ran the two wires up to the new glow plug rail. This did absolutely nothing.

Tomorrow I will attempt to adapted the old current sensor system to the new rail. What makes this job hard is, the all the snaking of the fuel lines to the injectors are in the way. It will be challenging to find room and a straight path, but the entire job is contingent on this.

Here is some shots of the new head design and rail which has little "U" turns around the head bolts. The old rail and sensor was straight. There were no head bolts in the way. The old straight current sensor rail needs to be adapted.


View attachment 1416116

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

If you decide to go with a manual 'Wilson Switch' type system, here is what you'll want to do (as per our PM conversation).

- Only use a Momentary contact push button switch. If you used a normal toggle switch, there is a danger it could be left in the 'ON' position and melt your glow plugs into the cylinder head!

- If you cut the wires at the Preheat Timer, make sure to leave enough length that they can be reconnected in case you ever want to.

- The schematic covers a few different models, however yours is the 'LJ' type as you know.

- You can eliminate the 'glow plug current sensor'. Just use the simple one wire setup that came with your 2LT-II.