GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Don, this is what the Pre-heating Timer should look like:
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
My Relays have a bit more age than Nick's.
That said, I have concluded my glow plug voltage problem lies with the either the Current Sensor or Timer Realy or how the two interface with the Main Relay.
Main Relay passed all tests from page ST-4 of the service manual.
My Timer Relay, is the goldish colored square next to the fuel filter above left wheel well.
It is a self contained PFM self contained unit, that I don't feel like breaking trying to pry it open.
I get 11.5 volts on Baterry Post of the Main relay and Zero volts at the other post that has the lead for the glow plug rail post (at all times).
The main relay will not release any voltage to the glow plug rail, so I will bypass the Super Glow System all together.
Here are some pics of the Super Glow System that will get Bypassed.
That said, I have concluded my glow plug voltage problem lies with the either the Current Sensor or Timer Realy or how the two interface with the Main Relay.
Main Relay passed all tests from page ST-4 of the service manual.
My Timer Relay, is the goldish colored square next to the fuel filter above left wheel well.
It is a self contained PFM self contained unit, that I don't feel like breaking trying to pry it open.
I get 11.5 volts on Baterry Post of the Main relay and Zero volts at the other post that has the lead for the glow plug rail post (at all times).
The main relay will not release any voltage to the glow plug rail, so I will bypass the Super Glow System all together.
Here are some pics of the Super Glow System that will get Bypassed.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #43
I am going to remove the Main Relay #28610-57100 and install a Ford Starter Relay (unless anyone has any better suggestions). I will leave the Current Sensor out of the loop of the starter Relay.
I bought a 12 volt D.C., Normally Open N/O Momentary Push to Make Switch that illuminates when the circuit is closed.
My only concern at this point is where I am going to pull the power to activate the starter relay, but most likely I'll do a homerun and pull from the battery. However, I am up for suggestions. Here are some pics of the momentary switch, glow light, and LJ70 kick panel.
I bought a 12 volt D.C., Normally Open N/O Momentary Push to Make Switch that illuminates when the circuit is closed.
My only concern at this point is where I am going to pull the power to activate the starter relay, but most likely I'll do a homerun and pull from the battery. However, I am up for suggestions. Here are some pics of the momentary switch, glow light, and LJ70 kick panel.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #44
Nick, you come to the rescue again, and I really appreciate the above diagram. Simplicity at its best on paper.
My only issues with the above solution are, I am somewhat of a knuckle head, and
I can't positively identify wires #2 and #6 in the diagram (let alone cleanly splice and solder them in situ).
Hell, I am not even sure which is Glow Relay #1 and #2. Although I think they are the ones that look like 2 old tubes. Which is which, I have no idea. I am gong to follow Lar's lead and go Wilson Switch.
I wouldl in all probability destroy a perfectly working Super Glow System in the process of trying to splice into it. I scoured the all the forums, and I don't see any parallels to mine. So, I think it is better to circumvent Super Glow altogether until I understand it better.
I stole the below "Wilson Switch" Diagram from an old Rudi post.
This is more of my skill level. If this fails, there is going to be an LJ70 for sale soon cheap.
My only issues with the above solution are, I am somewhat of a knuckle head, and
I can't positively identify wires #2 and #6 in the diagram (let alone cleanly splice and solder them in situ).
Hell, I am not even sure which is Glow Relay #1 and #2. Although I think they are the ones that look like 2 old tubes. Which is which, I have no idea. I am gong to follow Lar's lead and go Wilson Switch.
I wouldl in all probability destroy a perfectly working Super Glow System in the process of trying to splice into it. I scoured the all the forums, and I don't see any parallels to mine. So, I think it is better to circumvent Super Glow altogether until I understand it better.
I stole the below "Wilson Switch" Diagram from an old Rudi post.
This is more of my skill level. If this fails, there is going to be an LJ70 for sale soon cheap.
Last edited:
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
That looks like a good plan! Can't go wrong with that at all. Takes all the mystery of the Superglow out of the equation.
If you look in your pictures above, you will see a black box that says "Power Outlet". Open that up. It is one of the best things I've discovered in a cruiser. It is a fused source for power with screw terminals. Constant +12V, Accessory (key in Acc position) +12V, and On (engine running) +12V. Use the Constant or Accessory terminal for power for your switch. This is safest, as your switch will be fused by the fuses in that box. Straight to the battery would be a fire hazard.
You will still have to run a separate high current run as in your drawing for the glow plugs though. Just make sure you do use the fusible link shown in the drawing. Again, to keep things from melting down if something goes wrong....
You'll get that motor running yet!
hello
once you get glowplugs running the engine normally starts no problem. without glowplugs it doesnt start unless is warm ( running or auxiliary heater). I have a webasto installed and thats my backup in case glowplugs fail.
I bought my truck with a Wilson switch installed by previous owner. with the Wilson switch, I run 11v glowplugs. in my case, wilson switch would fry the 6v glowplugs of the superglow sistem.
Ill be away untill 25th , but can look and see how they wired the switch. Im not good with electrics, but can take pics for you.
once you get glowplugs running the engine normally starts no problem. without glowplugs it doesnt start unless is warm ( running or auxiliary heater). I have a webasto installed and thats my backup in case glowplugs fail.
I bought my truck with a Wilson switch installed by previous owner. with the Wilson switch, I run 11v glowplugs. in my case, wilson switch would fry the 6v glowplugs of the superglow sistem.
Ill be away untill 25th , but can look and see how they wired the switch. Im not good with electrics, but can take pics for you.
- Thread starter
- #47
Well, I finally got the 2L-TII to crank over today. A lot of ??? In my head over the past few weeks. My initial gut instinct played out to the max, and the most difficult part was the wiring harness and its interface with the "Super Glow" system.
In the end, I ended up by-passing the "Super-Glow" altogether with a Ford Starter Relay (some would call it a solenoid or a "Wilson Switch"). Not sure of the origins of the term Wilson Switch, but in reality, it is just a plain old Ford Starter Relay.
I unplugged the lead from the battery to the Main GP Relay and taped it off.
Then, I removed the Main GP Relay, and put the Ford Relay in the same location.
I zip tied the Current Sensor leads out of the way, and "reamed"out the GP rail lead hole and connected that to the Ford Relay. I ran a new lead from the battery to the starter relay with a fusible link connected in the cabin with a push momentary switch.
I cranked it about 5 times for 8 seconds per try, and it never lit off. Fuel was never even getting to the injectors. A lot of air seems to have gotten in the system (injection pump and fuel lines) from the boat ride from Tokyo to Long Beach, plus the DHL ride from LA to Vegas.
The Fuel cutoff solenoid was "clicking" so I was pretty sure that was a good solenoid. Nonetheless, no fuel was getting to the injectors. I un-did all the hard lines from the injection pump to the injectors with a 17mm spanner and cranked her some more, but nothing.
In the end, I had to do some non-standard "priming" and it worked.
I connected a 3 foot section of clear 1/2" PVC tube to the main fuel line that connected to injection pump at the banjo fitting.
I filled the clear PVC tube with fresh diesel fuel, and blew into the line with moderate force. When the fuel in the clear PVC dropped about 3" I reconnected the 17mm nuts at the hard fuel lines. On the next attempt, she fired right up (even without energy from the Wilson Switch set up; as it was 30 C today here in Vegas).
She started idling fine, but as I manually throttled the Injection Pump, a lot of smoke was coming out the turbo down pipe. I disconnected the turbo cross-over pipe and it was full of engine oil (approximately 3-4 oz). I was starting to panic, but realized this motor just did 10,000 hard sea and truck miles to my house. I cleaned up all the stray oil on the cross-over and intake and try it again, and bamm, all was good, no smoke or hiccups.
All said, this job was a total nightmare, but hopefully, I can get 75,000- 100,000 km out of this motor and all will be right with the world.
Considering the work involved, I probably would have went with a 1KZ or 1HZ if I had to do it again. However, at the time I mad the decision to do this converion, I thought it was more practical to stick with what I had, since I just bought a new radiator, hoses, belts, and alternator on my old 2L-T.
I still have to Jerry Rig an accerator cable latch/bracket, but it appears we are in the clear.
I will post pics of the bracket in order to close out this project properly for the next DIY guy.
In the end, I ended up by-passing the "Super-Glow" altogether with a Ford Starter Relay (some would call it a solenoid or a "Wilson Switch"). Not sure of the origins of the term Wilson Switch, but in reality, it is just a plain old Ford Starter Relay.
I unplugged the lead from the battery to the Main GP Relay and taped it off.
Then, I removed the Main GP Relay, and put the Ford Relay in the same location.
I zip tied the Current Sensor leads out of the way, and "reamed"out the GP rail lead hole and connected that to the Ford Relay. I ran a new lead from the battery to the starter relay with a fusible link connected in the cabin with a push momentary switch.
I cranked it about 5 times for 8 seconds per try, and it never lit off. Fuel was never even getting to the injectors. A lot of air seems to have gotten in the system (injection pump and fuel lines) from the boat ride from Tokyo to Long Beach, plus the DHL ride from LA to Vegas.
The Fuel cutoff solenoid was "clicking" so I was pretty sure that was a good solenoid. Nonetheless, no fuel was getting to the injectors. I un-did all the hard lines from the injection pump to the injectors with a 17mm spanner and cranked her some more, but nothing.
In the end, I had to do some non-standard "priming" and it worked.
I connected a 3 foot section of clear 1/2" PVC tube to the main fuel line that connected to injection pump at the banjo fitting.
I filled the clear PVC tube with fresh diesel fuel, and blew into the line with moderate force. When the fuel in the clear PVC dropped about 3" I reconnected the 17mm nuts at the hard fuel lines. On the next attempt, she fired right up (even without energy from the Wilson Switch set up; as it was 30 C today here in Vegas).
She started idling fine, but as I manually throttled the Injection Pump, a lot of smoke was coming out the turbo down pipe. I disconnected the turbo cross-over pipe and it was full of engine oil (approximately 3-4 oz). I was starting to panic, but realized this motor just did 10,000 hard sea and truck miles to my house. I cleaned up all the stray oil on the cross-over and intake and try it again, and bamm, all was good, no smoke or hiccups.
All said, this job was a total nightmare, but hopefully, I can get 75,000- 100,000 km out of this motor and all will be right with the world.
Considering the work involved, I probably would have went with a 1KZ or 1HZ if I had to do it again. However, at the time I mad the decision to do this converion, I thought it was more practical to stick with what I had, since I just bought a new radiator, hoses, belts, and alternator on my old 2L-T.
I still have to Jerry Rig an accerator cable latch/bracket, but it appears we are in the clear.
I will post pics of the bracket in order to close out this project properly for the next DIY guy.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #48
Here are pics of the Ford Starter Relay setup (aka, Wilson Switch). Still curious on the origins of that term. Simply remove the main GP Relay and screw in the Ford Relay. I ground down some paint off of the fender well since the Ford Relay grounds itself through the back of the Relay.
I ended up tossing the EBay special momentary switch for the Painless Momentary Switch.
It came out somewhat stock looking since I used a hole that already exited. No step drilling required.
The motor actually fires up without using the Relay to heat the GP Rail (yet it was 28 C today).
I ended up tossing the EBay special momentary switch for the Painless Momentary Switch.
It came out somewhat stock looking since I used a hole that already exited. No step drilling required.
The motor actually fires up without using the Relay to heat the GP Rail (yet it was 28 C today).
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #49
Here are some pics of the Accelerator Cable Bracket I adapted to the LJ70.
Remember, this motor was RHD out of god who knows what, and adapted to a LHD LJ70.
This is the best I could come up with. It is OEM Toyota, but inverted and chopped.
I grabbed several from the salvage yard, and the gold one worked best for me.
If anyone has pics of the stock LHD LJ70 bracket, I would be curious to see it.
View attachment 1424973
View attachment 1424975
Remember, this motor was RHD out of god who knows what, and adapted to a LHD LJ70.
This is the best I could come up with. It is OEM Toyota, but inverted and chopped.
I grabbed several from the salvage yard, and the gold one worked best for me.
If anyone has pics of the stock LHD LJ70 bracket, I would be curious to see it.
View attachment 1424973
View attachment 1424975
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #50
Still a few items to conver before I can take her off roading.
I need some custom exhaust work done to mate the turbo to the stock exhaust system.
I will probably have to canibulize my old exhaust section since none of the exhaust shops I went to had the flanges in question.
Also, there are 2 temperature sensors on my coolant filler neck. I am curious what the second one is for?
Oil pressure sending unit on the new motor has different connector than old motor, but oldly enough, oil pressure reads in the green without any connection??? Go figure. Sounds like an aftermarket unit is in store for the future.
PCV valve will be vented underneath the vehicle, thanks to another great recommendation from, Nick!
And PCV inlet on the turbo will have to be plugged.
That said, she should be on the road in a few days. Will post pics when we get her up on some hills!
I need some custom exhaust work done to mate the turbo to the stock exhaust system.
I will probably have to canibulize my old exhaust section since none of the exhaust shops I went to had the flanges in question.
Also, there are 2 temperature sensors on my coolant filler neck. I am curious what the second one is for?
Oil pressure sending unit on the new motor has different connector than old motor, but oldly enough, oil pressure reads in the green without any connection??? Go figure. Sounds like an aftermarket unit is in store for the future.
PCV valve will be vented underneath the vehicle, thanks to another great recommendation from, Nick!
And PCV inlet on the turbo will have to be plugged.
That said, she should be on the road in a few days. Will post pics when we get her up on some hills!
Auto gauges, EGT Boost : auberins.com, Temperature control solutions for home and industry
have a look at that page, I bought two for egt and coolant temperature, their units size is small enough to be placed in the small slot above the radio or under the dash. haven't installed them yet, not at home for now. maybe other guys used them before.
have a look at that page, I bought two for egt and coolant temperature, their units size is small enough to be placed in the small slot above the radio or under the dash. haven't installed them yet, not at home for now. maybe other guys used them before.
- Thread starter
- #52
Those square gauges are pretty slick, Alexy. You say they will fit in the stock slot above the radio? That may be what the doctor ordered. Thanks for the link.
Yesterday, I had a "custom" exhaust welded to adapt the front exhaust section to the turbo.
The RHD turbo flange that cnme with the 2L-TII wasn't going to work at all, as it pointed right back at the engine, so I ended up using the old 2L-T flange. This flange is not parallel to the ground and is slightly canted. But now it is welded to up and engine sounds good. I miss hearing the turbo whistle as the muffler is cancelling 98% of the whistle out, but I'll take that over CO2 in the cabin.
I'm still getting a bit of oil inside the crossover tube. I need to figure out what is causing that. I noticed zero black smoke/exhaust coming out the muffler end even under heavy acceleration and load. Burn seems to be much more complete than the old 2L.
Yesterday, I had a "custom" exhaust welded to adapt the front exhaust section to the turbo.
The RHD turbo flange that cnme with the 2L-TII wasn't going to work at all, as it pointed right back at the engine, so I ended up using the old 2L-T flange. This flange is not parallel to the ground and is slightly canted. But now it is welded to up and engine sounds good. I miss hearing the turbo whistle as the muffler is cancelling 98% of the whistle out, but I'll take that over CO2 in the cabin.
I'm still getting a bit of oil inside the crossover tube. I need to figure out what is causing that. I noticed zero black smoke/exhaust coming out the muffler end even under heavy acceleration and load. Burn seems to be much more complete than the old 2L.
- Thread starter
- #53
As the older 2L PCV system uses the cross over tube as part of the return to the turbo and the newer 2L-TII does not have PCV plumbing integral to the unit, I used 1/2" coolant line to run the system back to the transfer case and used a large vacuum cap on the turbo input. Thanks again, Nick, for clueing me in.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #54
Not sure if anyone ever considered this technique or not, but when I was "double checking" the resistance on my glow plugs, you could feel the carbon build up inside the GP orface. An AR15/M16 .556 rifle bore works perfectly for cleaning up this area. On the #1 GP orface I had trouble getting it in and out, but after 3 passes, it proved to be the perfect size.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #55
Took the LJ out for a 125km test run and she seemed to do very good overall. She ran much cooler then the last motor and did not blow any black smoke out the tail pipe under load. Now I don't have to worry about being reported by 1-800-Nevada pollution hotline.
My accelerator cable did come loose once and there was more oil in the turbo crossover tube than I'd like to see. The alternator belts seemed too slip a bit as well. The alternator tensioner on this vehicle needs way too many ftlbs to keep the belts tight IMHO.
Overall, it was a good day.
My accelerator cable did come loose once and there was more oil in the turbo crossover tube than I'd like to see. The alternator belts seemed too slip a bit as well. The alternator tensioner on this vehicle needs way too many ftlbs to keep the belts tight IMHO.
Overall, it was a good day.
GTSSportCoupe
2LTE abuser
Nice to see it on the road and happy to hear its running so well!! Nice work!
Yeah, the alternator tensioner is a real pain on these motors for sure. Make sure you tighten the bottom bolt on the alternator as well as the bolt that locks the tensioner mechanism. They are hard to even see never mind get at.
Yeah, the alternator tensioner is a real pain on these motors for sure. Make sure you tighten the bottom bolt on the alternator as well as the bolt that locks the tensioner mechanism. They are hard to even see never mind get at.
I have a quick question, I recently got a 87 2LT motor and I am in the process of buying some parts to replace on it but everything thing I am finding online starts with the year 1990. They are all listed under 2LT but wouldent these parts be 2LT2 parts rather than original 2LT parts? If this is the case I haven't found a good supply for original 2LT parts yet.
- Thread starter
- #58
Good question. There are a couple of good sites out there like toyodiy.com where you can put in your VIN or your year vehicle/class and get the exact part number. But as you concluded it doesn't differentiate between 2LT and 2LT2. If you know the actual year and model truck your motor came out of, it should steer you to the correct part number.
- Joined
- Sep 9, 2004
- Threads
- 200
- Messages
- 12,497
- Location
- Boise - Idaho
- Website
- www.snlandcruisers.com
Tons of good information in this thread!
I am curious though, why did you think your old motor was done? You only stated it had 300,000kms and gave no other reason.
Cheers
I am curious though, why did you think your old motor was done? You only stated it had 300,000kms and gave no other reason.
Cheers
- Thread starter
- #60
Well, previous owner was running straight water in the cooling system. There was serious electrolysis going on on the aluminum oil pump /timing cover, and most coolant connections. See Pic Below. The pitting on the oil pump / timing cover was so bad you couldn't get a good seal on the water hoses going to the radiator. I believe air was also entering the coolant system via pin holes in the timing cover and that was the reason for the high water temps.
Also, I was burning about a quart of oil every 1000 miles/1600km. The newer motor doesn't smoke at all on acceleration and hasn't needed a top off of oil yet. The new motor doesn't even need the glow plugs heated to start. It fires right up with compression. I caveat that with it has never been below freezing since I dropped her in. There is a Wilson Switch installed for the cooler weather when the time comes.
Also, I was burning about a quart of oil every 1000 miles/1600km. The newer motor doesn't smoke at all on acceleration and hasn't needed a top off of oil yet. The new motor doesn't even need the glow plugs heated to start. It fires right up with compression. I caveat that with it has never been below freezing since I dropped her in. There is a Wilson Switch installed for the cooler weather when the time comes.
Last edited:
