2F Welch Plug

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

yes you can run it with no trans, wont hurt a thing. gonna have to get flywheel and bellhousing on first tho, but thats not to big a deal for peace of mind.
 
There is a tool called a welch plug driver. It has a cupped head and makes installation real easy. It can be done using a piece of steel stock and a large hammer. Just be sure it is set. Aviation form-a-gasket would be my choice. However if the plug is not set the RTV or form a gasket will not hold the pressure.


Dynosoar
DIN470-small.webp
 
Clean up the surface area well, then put some sealer on this (I use Yamabond motorcycle crankcase sealer). You don't want to keep pounding on the plug to install it, just give it one or two good smacks to press the center in an expand the plug. Then if you don't want to do this job again shortly after you put it all back together, stake the outer edge of the plug around its entire circumference. The plug is fairly soft and its easy to do. If you don't stake the plug, its likely going to leak. Take a look at some photos of this plug as originally installed (several photos on MUD already) and you'll see it was staked around the edges.
 
klinetime574 said:
Hey guys

I need some advice/ info on my welch plug.

I got the plug from Toyota. Part #90330-24013

The plug that was in there was pounded in too much so it was leaking. I removed it and tried my hand at inserting a new one. Used a wheel stud about 2/3 the diameter of the plug so that is where the marks on it came from. Ideally the plug would flatten out and I would be convinced it is good, but it is still ever so slightly domed.

Does anyone have experience installing these that could write about the process and give some feedback on my pictures?

Plug removed:

65e87404.jpg


Installed:

618f4759.jpg


Thanks guys! Hope you had a Merry Christmas :)
Click to expand...

auto zone , kragen, or other similar parts stores have freeze plug install tools that they will lone or rent to you to install it right
 
Thanks for all these tips guys. I will have the cojones to get it done right. Glad I bought two plugs :)
 
But you did say "Welch plug"...synonymous with freeze-plug
Click to expand...

This is incorrect in 2 ways.

First, a Welch plug is a very specific type of convex round plug w/ a sharp edge. It is installed in a hole w/ a stepped bore. The plug has to be beaten flat once installed to expand it for the proper seal/press fit.

Second, 'freeze plug' is hillbilly slang for a core plug. Core plugs are used to plug core out holes in complex castings (engine blocks, heads, manifolds...) that are used to clean out the casting core material (usu. sand). Core holes are usually finished to a smooth bore and sealed w/a press fit cup plug. Vintage engines may use a welch plug for this purpose, but manufacturers got away from them ASAP, because of the more expensive machining and installation cost. Aviation and racing engines may use threaded core plugs.

The proper sealant for either a welch or cup plug is Permatex #1, hard setting. Silicon RTV sealers are actually slippery which is good for gasket expansion, but bad for mechanically retaining a plug.

A cruiser tip for the rear oil & cam plugs: If there is a concern that the plugs might leak or pop loose in use, fill the outside of the plug w/ JB weld, put a piece of clear packing tape over the plugs, then immediately bolt on the BH. After goop has hardened, remove BH, peel off tape, proceed w/ engine assembly as normal. Solid goop will insure that internal oil pressure cannot blow plug out to back of bore and really gush oil.

That's all I got.

Happy holidays or bah humbug, your choice. :cheers:
 
Last edited:
FJ40Jim said:
A cruiser tip for the rear oil & cam plugs: If there is a concern that the plugs might leak or pop loose in use, fill the outside of the plug w/ JB weld, put a piece of clear packing tape over the plugs, then immediately bolt on the BH. After goop has hardened, remove BH, peel off saran wrap, proceed w/ engine assembly as normal. Solid goop will insure that internal oil pressure cannot blow plug out to back of bore and really gush oil.

That's all I got.

Happy holidays or bah humbug, your choice. :cheers:
Click to expand...

Wow. That's a lot. Thanks to Jim and all other contributors. That JB weld tip is a good one!
 
Just did the JB Weld trick with Permatex #1 on the new plug. Waiting for it to dry. This should be a lot better now :D Thanks Jim!
 
Just to let y'all know I got the beast running. bone dry!

Redneck fix is THE way to go :hillbilly:
 
i need some help here..... my 1974 fj40 dumped all its oil out of the front of the block and i can't find the welch plug to fit. :bang: I have ordered a 24mm plug from CCT but still unsure if its the right thing. It won't be here until late in the week. I wanted to tap but can't find a 17mm OD threaded hex head to fit the hole. Im ready to get lil deb back on the trail! :) i think i figured out that a welch plug and a freez plug are two different things.
 
Yep, Welch plug and cup plug are two different things. Welch plug is used to close the oil gallery that goes all the way through the block. It can be threaded to 1/2NPT, but I don't bother anymore. The block is HARD, and cutting a good, deep pipe thread is not easy.

I can USPS Priority Mail a couple of the welch plugs to you for $10, if that would help.
 
Good to see this thread resurface. My JB Weld + plug is still in good shape. Had the bell housing off when I did my H55F swap. Perfection.
 
Mine was leaking and leaking a lot. I thought about installing a new plug but did not think I could do a good installation while lying under the Cruiser. I cleaned it well and packed the cavity with the ubiquitous blue Peramtex goo :hillbilly:, overfilled actually, and slapped the bellhousing back on. I may have added a layer of duct tape but don't remember for sure. That was about 2 years ago and a ton of miles, still leak free.
 
When I had my block worked over at a local machine shop that I trust, I asked them for tips on the freeze plugs. They highly recommended a Permatex product called "Indian Head Gasket Shellac Compound". There's a nifty applicator in the bottle, you goop it around the hole, let it dry some till it's tacky, then hammer the plug in. The stuff dries really hard.

Seems like it would work well on that plug.
 
Please mail me a few. My email is rbarnard79@gmail.com let me know where to mail the money and ill send out on Monday if your able to drop in the mail to me then as well. Thanks so much for the help!!!!!

Ryan Barnard
421 Gatewood Ave.
High Point, NC 27262

Thanks FJ40Jim for the help and to all who replied so quickly!
 
Last edited:
Lil deb the day I picked it up after sitting next to a barn for 14 years! Was a sweet little find! This is what needs the welch plug! It has been running and stopping so well after all the love I've been giving her! Just wanted to share a photo of what I've been working on for months! Its a great joy! Dimond plate removed and a bezel flip was the first things to happen!! :D
20150816_174136.webp
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

Silveredition
Fj62 - fuel pump wiring plug
Replies
4
Views
319
Silveredition
Silveredition
M
Melted longer plug to blue plug for lights on fj62
Replies
6
Views
495
Michael Hanson
M
D
Disconnected electrical plug
Replies
6
Views
728
mdw83fj60
mdw83fj60
GS 60
  • Question Question
Brake MC Drain Plug.
Replies
2
Views
433
GS 60
GS 60

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom