2F side panel removal/gasket install (1 Viewer)

[Last Flight Out]

I’ve done some searching for the subject and found some good information, but can anybody verify that you can replace the gasket for the 2F side panel with the engine in place and not disconnect coolant lines (just the brackets), and not the dizzy? I know it may be fiddly to slide up and out and putting back in place with new gasket.

Over the past few weeks I’ve noticed some wetness here just to the right of the oil filter. That seems to come out of nowhere. I’ll wipe it down and let it sit for a few days and then it will still be moist. So I think it’s the gasket is just old and cranky.

Thoughts?

 

[1911]

I’ve done some searching for the subject and found some good information, but can anybody verify that you can replace the gasket for the 2F side panel with the engine in place and not disconnect coolant lines (just the brackets), and not the dizzy? I know it may be fiddly to slide up and out and putting back in place with new gasket.

Over the past few weeks I’ve noticed some wetness here just to the right of the oil filter. That seems to come out of nowhere. I’ll wipe it down and let it sit for a few days and then it will still be moist. So I think it’s the gasket is just old and cranky.

Thoughts?

It might be possible to replace the gasket without removing the oil filter and the dizzy, but it will be difficult to clean the old gasket material off and get the new gasket (and sealer) on clean with those still in place. Pulling and re-stabbing the dizzy is not a big deal, if you make index marks for the dizzy to the block and the rotor to the dizzy. It's worth it to me to take them off, to do a better job.

You can move the coolant hard line out of the way by unbolting the bracket.

Use an OEM cork gasket. Get both mating surfaces surgically clean, make sure the cover flange surface is flat, coat the new cork gasket on both sides with as thin of a layer of Toyota black FIPG as you can spread with a finger, and don't over tighten the cover - the spec is in inch-pounds. If you over tighten it the cork gasket will squish out and it will leak again. Do it this way, and you will have no leaks.

 

[Green Bean]

Also there is some useful information here

 

[charliemeyer007]

Big fan of Aviation Permatex that never dries on cork. +1 for clean. Flat is really important, check around the bolt holes in that cover - pane of glass or big piece of heavy sheet metal and a flashlight or feeler's gauge.

 

[Last Flight Out]

@1911 is there some basic pics online of how to mark the dizzy to block. I know it’s held by a very important bracket and slots into oil pump. I’m new at removing one, but have replaced the cap before with new plugs and wires. It’s a critical procedure in my mind (not to screw up).

 

[1911]

@1911 is there some basic pics online of how to mark the dizzy to block. I know it’s held by a very important bracket and slots into oil pump. I’m new at removing one, but have replaced the cap before with new plugs and wires. It’s a critical procedure in my mind (not to screw up).

A Sharpie marker will work, as will a paint marker pen, if your block and dizzy are relatively clean (or just spray off any crud with some brake cleaner). You could also just make a light scratch on both the block and dizzy body. It doesn't have to be perfect; you just need it close enough so that when you stab the dizzy you get it on the same gear tooth alignment as it was. If you don't rotate the engine at all while it's out, the oil pump slot will still be in the same place it was, and an index mark between the rotor and the body of the dizzy will let you engage at the same place. Goes without saying that you want to make sure the dizzy engages the oil pump, and is fully seated on the block. I would still check/re-set the timing after it was running, but indexing it will at least get you very close to where it was and thus start and run easily.

Sorry, no photos though.

 

[Last Flight Out]

A Sharpie marker will work, as will a paint marker pen, if your block and dizzy are relatively clean (or just spray off any crud with some brake cleaner). You could also just make a light scratch on both the block and dizzy body. It doesn't have to be perfect; you just need it close enough so that when you stab the dizzy you get it on the same gear tooth alignment as it was. If you don't rotate the engine at all while it's out, the oil pump slot will still be in the same place it was, and an index mark between the rotor and the body of the dizzy will let you engage at the same place. Goes without saying that you want to make sure the dizzy engages the oil pump, and is fully seated on the block. I would still check/re-set the timing after it was running, but indexing it will at least get you very close to where it was and thus start and run easily.

Sorry, no photos though.

Awesome…so last Q. What does stab the dizzy mean? I mean I have a knife, but my dizzy has been amazing for me so don’t want to stab him lols

 

[Steamer]

What does stab the dizzy mean?

“Stab” is just a slang term for inserting the distributor.

I use anti-seize compound instead of sealant (that’s just me) but either way, my method might be of use. I made some guide pegs by cutting the heads off some 6mm bolts. Then with the gasket and cover in place, swap them out one by one.

EDIT: And for quick dizzy removal and replace, I just take a snap-shot of the dizzy with the cap off.

 

[Last Flight Out]

“Stab” is just a slang term for inserting the distributor.

I use anti-seize compound instead of sealant (that’s just me) but either way, my method might be of use. I made some guide pegs by cutting the heads off some 6mm bolts. Then with the gasket and cover in place, swap them out one by one.

EDIT: And for quick dizzy removal and replace, I just take a snap-shot of the dizzy with the cap off.

View attachment 3544053

Brilliant @Steamer ! Thank you for this… I just finished up a complete replacement of my 12v and grounding straps… And just saw my oil pan gasket install is no longer holding back the oil like I thought it would. I guess with these kind of things with cork gaskets you just live and learn so I’ll probably tackle the side plate first and then redo the oil pan yet again.