2F Engine Timing Mark (1 Viewer)

[knuckle47]

I found a remote starter. I used many years ago which of the four posts of this solenoid should I connect the leads to of course one goes to the 12 o’clock position battery terminal but then there is a pin at 3 o’clock 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock the second lead goes on which one of these.

 

[knuckle47]

 

[knuckle47]

Also took off the air cleaner and valve cover. I am amazed at how many other projects this leads to now I have to repaint the valve cover. It was painted green when the engine was rebuilt and I never cared for it.

 

[Pighead]

I’m certain 15 FJ40’s would present 15 opinions.

And then there's that one FJ55 owner who says that the best way to turn the engine over to find TDC is with the OEM handcrank which came with every 55.
He even has his own way of seating the dizzy: with the dizzy inserted and gears engaged where you want them, stand on something so you can reach in over the fender and put some weight on the dizzy cap, with the other hand, run the starter motor to spin the engine just once or twice. You'll feel the dizzy drop that last 1/4" and hear a satisfying "thunk" as it seats.

 

[knuckle47]

Ok…I’m back..

This was way more frustrating than it should be and before I confidently continue…let me ask a few questions.
1.) In order to find 0* and 7* mark I painted the marks after cleaning the area with white and yellow paint pens.

2.) Pulled the valve cover off to check the valves. I was going to hook up the remote button starter but the two terminal id select spun the starter
but puffed a whisp of smoke so i abandoned that plan.


3.) set up an old WYZE cam on top of the starter so i can view the BB and white line remotely using the app on the phone..
Here’s the video link.


4.) rotated the rear tire in 4th gear and watched for the BB to show up on the phone screen to check cylinder 1 and see if both valves are closed…
they are closed with free play in the rockers.

5.) pulled the cap off of the D.U.I distributor to see that the rotor was directed at cylinder #1 on the cap…..it is…but not how the toyota spec shows
in the manual point around cylinder #4

At this point, for those who know about this, can I install the new distributor in any 360* position as long as the new cap and rotor are located at cylinder #1? …. I tend to think so since the fire will occur at cylinder #1 no matter where it lies in the 360* circle…. Am I wrong?

Here are also some photos of the camera process and the cap removed on the D.U.I.

 

[Pighead]

Yes. You can install the dizzy body in any location as long as the rotor is under plugwire#1

 

[igotta40]

You don’t have to line all that up, focus on TDC first then use a long flat blade screw driver and flashlight to rotate the oil pump so it is oriented to accept the distributor’s blade when stabbed. Make damn sure the distributor is seated all the way down into the clamp as we’ve all read about that mistake.

That’s what I meant but you said it better.

 

[knuckle47]

@Pighead thank you…a direct answer! this is all I should need to know…but, we’ll see..

 

[Pighead]

I found a remote starter. I used many years ago which of the four posts of this solenoid should I connect the leads to of course one goes to the 12 o’clock position battery terminal but then there is a pin at 3 o’clock 6 o’clock and 9 o’clock the second lead goes on which one of these.

The spade connector at 9:00. I just stick an endwrench down there and jump the big positive direct to the spade...

 

[knuckle47]

Once again @Pighead …..thanks

 

[Mark W]

At this point, for those who know about this, can I install the new distributor in any 360* position as long as the new cap and rotor are located at cylinder #1? …. I tend to think so since the fire will occur at cylinder #1 no matter where it lies in the 360* circle…. Am I wrong?

Yes you can. But make sure that however you have the dist installed, you have room to rotate it to advance and retard the timing without interference of the vacuum advance module with anything else nearby.

Mark...

 

[knuckle47]

@Mark W I can see how that can happen… this is probably why the D.U.I. Is installed about 90* to the right. That vacuum pot would be a bit too close to the battery tray for timing and twisting the distributor as needed.

Nice thing about the Hyperspark is there are no outside accoutrements to hit anything….its all electronic and the outer periphery is totally round and clear beyond the electrical connector which is minimal

 

[Steamer]

I use a magnetic backup camera to view the pointer remotely and drop the flywheel cover. The flywheel (on my F.5) has holes drilled in around the edge and I use a 7/16" x long bolt with the head cut off to rotate the flywheel viewing the marks while laying on a creeper.

 

[knuckle47]

This proves there is more than one way to “skin a cat” as I have heard . Thats a good idea

 

[knuckle47]

Had a little bit of time so today I removed the D.U.I. Distributor, lined up the oil pump slot, loaded up the new Holley distributor drive gear with assembly lube and plugged in it to the engine. Used the gasket and the new hold down clamp and a spacer and so far things are looking good.

Holley supplies a special indexing cap for phasing the distributor along with 0* and #1 cylinder. They say it’s a reasonably fool-proof method of installing everything and it seems to be so. It only goes 1 way. You can rotate the distributor either way so that it all locks in place and you tighten the hold-down. Since there are no vacuum lines there is nothing interfering beyond the pigtail wire to the ignition box. There is a spark plug wire retention cap that holds the tips of the wires. Guessing it won’t need it but it went on easily and quickly . For those familiar with the Sniper EFI, there are a few unused wires and it is suggested you remove the unused wires and plug the holes with the water proof plugs…in order to feed signal to the Sniper ECU you are using only 1 white wire from the distributor and ignition box

Here are a few pictures of today

 

[mrboatman]

It’s all looking good

 

[Green Bean]

Looking good. By the way: I hate when instructions say that installation is "fool proof." For me, that usually presents a real challenge of just how badly can I mess this up.

 

[pb4ugo]

And then there's that one FJ55 owner who says that the best way to turn the engine over to find TDC is with the OEM handcrank which came with every 55.
He even has his own way of seating the dizzy: with the dizzy inserted and gears engaged where you want them, stand on something so you can reach in over the fender and put some weight on the dizzy cap, with the other hand, run the starter motor to spin the engine just once or twice. You'll feel the dizzy drop that last 1/4" and hear a satisfying "thunk" as it seats.

View attachment 3710588

I've been seating distributors this way forever.

 

[knuckle47]

@Green Bean it must be that this happens to incredibly smart people who continuously over-think the process …. I have the same situations in many other area because the logical side of you can’t believe it is that simple. Thinking it through and working at something you don’t wanna mess up adds to the anxiety.

Frankly, I have watched the 6-7 install videos (4x) on YouTube made by Holley and it REALLY IS as simple as they show…took a lot of time and completing each step to the to the near end and agree. My plan is to start it today… you can listen to the “yee-haw” if it all comes together. I have the knuckle rebuild kit now and just got a quote from George at Valley Hybrids on the Australian parabolic springs. I thinking that one over. A smoother ride would be a nice touch for hiway, dirt and fire trails…not doing any crawling any more

 

[knuckle47]

Turned out to be a longer day elsewhere so I did nothing on the EFI/Hyperspark system. But the rabbit hole is deep and wide so I am refinishing the valve cover, ordered new valve cover seals and gasket. I had this old spray can of Kleen Strip Aircraft stripper for metal but only 1/4 full. This stuff , when I used it 15 years ago was amazing. Every press of the spray button clogged so it really did little more than spit

Will get this stripped and either re-painted or polished before Friday