2F Engine Timing Mark (1 Viewer)

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Got home from work around 2 so I picked up a new can of spray stripper. It worked within 5 minutes and the dry cloth wiped it right off. Between some hot water and steel wool, done…primed and painted. The new gaskets and seals are coming tomorrow so I can put it all back together and start it up. Started to polish it but that would be a longer process and this rabbit hole is deep enough. I only started out installing a new distributor
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Unless I can put a calipers on these valve cover seals, does anyone know the difference or the application?

They sure look identical

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Unless I can put a calipers on these valve cover seals, does anyone know the difference or the application?

They sure look identical

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I might hazard to guess that one is for the earlier F engine stamped valve cover, other is for the 2F cast valve cover...
 
@Pighead I can easily agree with you and I did think of that but they APPEAR TO BE identical. I’ll have to find my calipers and get a few measurements
 
Possibly early 2F and later 2F or 3F. The inner diameter will be the difference if there is any.

Mark...
 
Funny but BOTH part numbers refer to January 1975 thru July 1980. And they show no measurable differences. Mine is May 1975
 
The short answer is “yee-haw”….. it works! For those willing….read on

Here’s the details. I prefer not making a lot of changes when working on something so I can alway trace a few footsteps back and correct an issue. Making several changes makes it harder to decipher which change is not right. I started only by adding the Hyperspark system and most of that are pre-fitted wiring harness and 5-6 wire connections. Despite my questioning every step I made, it apparently only caused a delay in finishing by over thinking all of it.

Between our own group here and a few calls to Holley, it was much simpler than I thought. I had updated the firmware and the ECU using the ssd card. Discovered the maximum size is an 8GB chip, the larger sizes may not read properly. The update software did not have the proper files so on startup, the error was “Handheld not compatible with ECU”. I thought I was screwed as it’s Friday and Holley tech support is a 1 hour + wait time and getting late. I was not going to wait and hour or more so re-formatted another sd card and watched the Holley YouTube videos and that worked. It’s a more secure feeling when the error message don’t pop up.

Holley also suggested another relay to feed the key-on power to the ignition box and distributor but I was not about to get that going …I wanted to see if all of this worked so I tapped into the 2 pink leads and the red lead on the same relay. . .with what you’ve read so far and see in the video it was about 3 hours work including music on hold and working on a few wires while waiting for Holley tech

Seems good, a bit anti-climactic and I’m glad it is complete

 
Didn’t get as far as I had wanted today. My battery has a row of 3 filler caps on each side and the battery hold down has these two rods that press right over the rows of caps. So I cut this strip of of some scrap, welded it to the hold down and now the battery is more secure. Replaced the valve cover with the new seals and secured all of the wiring in place.

I no longer feel guilty using a 12” zip tie where a 4” will work. I fumble around trying to aim for the slot and draw the tie but the arthritis in my thumbs tells me to give up quickly.

The air cleaner looks a little to ratty so I painted it an hour ago, should be dry tomorrow

So here are a few pictures:

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These overly large holes on the aircleaner seems like they should have some kind of vibration mount… I have these grommets that fit well, was there something else in here?
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I don't have a picture hand but there are metal clamp type devices that have a rubber grommet inside the that fit over the holes on the air filter mounts.
 
@Shark56 do you know whether or not they might look like the valve cover seals….?

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No, they are different. I'm away from my shop for a couple weeks so I can't get a picture.
I did a web search but did not see any pics yet.
I would think the seals or even the rubber grommets like you have now would work though. You are just trying to isolate the Air Cleaner from vibrating/ rubbing against the block.
 
I found an old pic of the Webs that show the somewhat.
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The metal clamp, clamshell type thing holds the grommet.
 
I was looking as well and did not see anything…the holes are big enough that the old ones and the new extra set I have could be sandwiched together….maybe. It may be too thick
 
I’m trying to interpret these numbers. Take a look. Here is the setup on the Sniper EFI handheld

Aside from the typical settings I have idle set to 690 rpm and WOT at 29*. The pointer in the fly wheel dead center on the BB and the setting in the timing light at 7*

The IAC floats…sometimes it’s 10-12 and other times it slowly drops to 0. While my timing is reading 7* via timing light, the display is around 14*. While I was installing the distributor and messing with the flywheel, I highlighted the ZERO mark and the BB with a paint pen and it is clearly visible. The idle is smooth …it starts even better than when I first installed the EFI. Despite the ECU idle setting at 690, the idle seems to stay around 740 when the IAC is fairly steady at 12-14…below that, it wants to float back towards 0%. Holley tech told me nothing wrong at 14% either.

I could certainly use some input on these setting and interpretation of these numbers…I should add the led in the Hyperspark ignition box is orange, key on and green with engine running



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By the way, I removed the vacuum advance Performance Distributors D.U.I. Distributor that was in my FJ40 when I bought it. I don’t know what year it was purchased and installed but the rebuilt engine had about 7000 miles on it when it came across the country to my house. I also purchased brand new cap, new live wires, rotor and internal module that were never installed…only waiting for the day they might be needed.. the live wires are numbered from D.U.I. for each cylinder. Never had any problems with these parts only that since adding the Sniper fuel injection, I decided to tie the entire system together and add the Hyperspark ignition to work with the computer injection system.


It is likely I am only going to stick it on a shelf with all the new unused parts. So I may be selling it If anyone is thinking about this upgrade, pm me…




 
I’m trying to interpret these numbers. Take a look. Here is the setup on the Sniper EFI handheld

Aside from the typical settings I have idle set to 690 rpm and WOT at 29*. The pointer in the fly wheel dead center on the BB and the setting in the timing light at 7*

The IAC floats…sometimes it’s 10-12 and other times it slowly drops to 0. While my timing is reading 7* via timing light, the display is around 14*. While I was installing the distributor and messing with the flywheel, I highlighted the ZERO mark and the BB with a paint pen and it is clearly visible. The idle is smooth …it starts even better than when I first installed the EFI. Despite the ECU idle setting at 690, the idle seems to stay around 740 when the IAC is fairly steady at 12-14…below that, it wants to float back towards 0%. Holley tech told me nothing wrong at 14% either.

I could certainly use some input on these setting and interpretation of these numbers…I should add the led in the Hyperspark ignition box is orange, key on and green with engine running



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Love the info - just a thought - did you get it all from Mosley? I thought part of the deal is they help dial it in if you purchased from them.
 
Hi @Ol Yeller …yes I did get it all from Mosley…. I have not yet sent any real tuning questions to them yet. I also received a fuel map from them that I need to up load to the ECU. The file is emailed to me but my desktop computer asks me if I want to upload the file “WITHOUT PROPERTIES’. No clue what that means so I did all of the tuning so far with EVERYTHING I’ve read and 4 phone calls to Holley (who is very helpful by the way)

I will be in touch today with Mosley for the exact same thoughts and see where the variation is. The computer edits are reasonably easy but my constant overthinking ‘F’ed up my first try… once I realized it is cut & paste…piece of cake.

I will post my results from each….honestly that 2F runs wonderfully .i am just the kind of person that says’. Well, it’s supposed to be “X” and I have “X.5” so…it’s not correct…actually it’s ok, but I have never viewed things this way in my entire life. And that’s has always been a problem
 

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