back out your idle speed screw till it doesn't touch, the turn it back in till it touches plus one turn. pull your choke cable and then back your fast idle speed screw out till it doesn't touch, then back in till it touches plus one turn, then push your choke cable back in. both of these will need additional tuning- by backing them out now, you rule out the possibility of either them having been set too far in and causing the throttle plate to be open too far at idle. If the throttle plate is open too far at idle, you will rev high and have zero tunability... Next, the mixture screw should have been set at factory and you should not have messed with it. If you haven't, no worries; if you have, you will want to gently turn it in to its stop GENTLY, and then back it out 3 full turns. pull your choke out so the choke plate closes, and the fast idle screw contacts the throttle linkage tab and turn the truck on. since the idle speed and fast idle speed screws have been backed out, you will want to turn the fast idle speed screw in to reach optimal fast cold idle (can't recall spec, but it's about 1200rpms). after the truck warms up, push the choke in, and turn your idle speed screw in to keep a 600-700 rpm idle...Once you push the choke in, you're going to need to be sorta swift to get the idle screw turned in some. The truck SHOULD be able lope down to about 250-350 rpms, just chugging and wheezing, but still running, if there are no vacuum leaks, and the carb is somewhat tuned in. I always find it better to tune UP to idle speed from a lower running speed, as it rules out the plate being open too far, AND it proves the carb and intake aren't leaking...HTH some...