2f Carb Tuning - Timing - and Vacuum Routing for Desmog (2 Viewers)

[dannyvp]

If the city racer carb out of the box idled at 300rpm it’s very likely set to a basic default. Did the carb come with any docs on setup?

The lean drop tune works....I think....because as you turn the idle mixture screw CCW it leans out the carb and that causes the rpm to increase. I bet you could turn the idle speed screw back to get the idle down to 300ish....just enough to hold the idle. Then turn the mixture screw CCW 1/8th to 1/4 turn at a time and listen for increase in rpms. Reference the dash tach for now. Keep turning that screw out until the rpms stop rising. If the engine speed increases a lot in the process you can slow it back down to the 700 ballpark with the idle speed screw. This wont get you to the end setting but it may get you closer until you can get some proper gages.

Which fluke do you have?

No documents come with the carb, i sent them an email on tuning and they sent me the same video posted above.
I have a fluke 325. I was going to drive it 500 miles tomorrow, but im afraid to with it running rich. I'd hate it to mess something else up, fowling up stuff.

 

[Seth S]

Overly rich will mostly return poor mileage...can load up the Cat. But keeps things nice and cool. Probably a good idea to just take a different car on your trip.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

In the past I’ve been told don’t grease those pivot balls @Seth S or @dannyvp as any grease will cause a build up and then they’ll definitely stick. Just open them up and shine w/ a scotchbrite pad and put back together.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Looking back @dannyvp you have a bunch of ports closed up... the big one under the carb for evap and all the gas filter ports, also gonna guess you aren’t running at least one bvsv? How about the advance pot on the distributor? Do you know if it’s even working, either port?

I’d have to search through my thread to find photos of how to run some (almost all) of those systems WITH the city racer but that’s how mine is setup when it is. My thread is a stupid 130 some odd pages but I’ll see what can find when I have time.

 

[Seth S]

I followed this to do my desmog.....it takes a few read throughs to follow everything but it is well detailed....its a little confusing because it details where hoses are run by referencing the each component....meaning it explains the connections independently from th point of view of each component....even when two components connect to the same hose...

http://everythingfj60.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/How+to+Desmog+an+FJ60-2.pdf

 

[Spike Strip]

You need to isolate things.

Disconnect the linkage from the carb and goose the accelerator pump by hand. If your idle is normal and doesn't bounce around, you know problem may be in the linkage or there's a vac leak. The way that gas filter has been plugged looks sketchy to me.

Is the ported vacuum to the vac advancer connected ?

Look down the carb throat, is fuel dumping out or being metered correctly?

The gasket between the carb and air cleaner does not look to be installed correctly. It's supposed to snap into the lip on air cleaner.

 

[KeilOver]

@gt7058a helped me with mine. Follow his advice.

 

[dannyvp]

Looking back @dannyvp you have a bunch of ports closed up... the big one under the carb for evap and all the gas filter ports, also gonna guess you aren’t running at least one bvsv? How about the advance pot on the distributor? Do you know if it’s even working, either port?

I’d have to search through my thread to find photos of how to run some (almost all) of those systems WITH the city racer but that’s how mine is setup when it is. My thread is a stupid 130 some odd pages but I’ll see what can find when I have time.

Sorry about that guys, ive been away in the mountains for a few weeks with the boy scouts.
Uhhhh I don't know if the advanced port is working or not, I assume so. I have no BVSV ports. I didn't do the desmog.

I just ordered a timing gun with tach and vacuum checker.

You need to isolate things.

Disconnect the linkage from the carb and goose the accelerator pump by hand. If your idle is normal and doesn't bounce around, you know problem may be in the linkage or there's a vac leak. The way that gas filter has been plugged looks sketchy to me.

What do you mean looks plugged?

Is the ported vacuum to the vac advancer connected ?

Not for sure.

The gasket between the carb and air cleaner does not look to be installed correctly. It's supposed to snap into the lip on air cleaner.

It was attached like this on my old carb, when I start troubleshooting, I'll look into this also.

 

[Rube]

How did it run before replacing the carb? If it was poor, my guess is you’ve got something else wrong. What does the vacuum gauge read? You may want to ensure that the valves and timing are first set and then go back to the carb. I love my cityracer but like any carb can take some time to get it right.

 

[dannyvp]

How did it run before replacing the carb? If it was poor, my guess is you’ve got something else wrong. What does the vacuum gauge read? You may want to ensure that the valves and timing are first set and then go back to the carb. I love my cityracer but like any carb can take some time to get it right.

The carb needed rebuilding before. After my head and valve rebuild, you could really tell.
Vacuum tester is on the way.

 

[dannyvp]

Ok doing the lean method as we speak here. When I screw out my mixture screw, it slows the the RPM not increases it. Opposite of the video shown!

 

[dannyvp]

 

[dannyvp]

Understand I know very little about this part of the process. I just bought this light and Vacuum gauge for this.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

For the timing light you need to pull the flywheel cover from below and turn the flywheel by hand till you find the BB and the TDC line and mark each w/ white out.
And where do you have the vac gauge hooked up?

 

[dannyvp]

Vacuum is hooked up on the finned booster on the manifold.

 

[dannyvp]

For the timing light you need to pull the flywheel cover

I thought you were suppose to shoot the light through that sq hole?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I thought you were suppose to shoot the light through that sq hole?

Agreed, yes, and did you see the timing marks on the flywheel? The reason for painting the timing marks white is that from the factory they are silver (the bb is just set into the flywheel and the tdc line is just a chiseled vertical mark) and very hard to see. The white out makes the marks “glow” from the shine of the light.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Vacuum is hooked up on the finned booster on the manifold.

Your not getting very good vacuum then, if I’m way off I imagine someone will correct me. 14 seems fairly low and since your not at elevation I would be concerned that your loosing air somewhere. Often hoses are stiff and brittle which means you might have a crack in one or old gaskets on the manifold or the egr. You can take a bottle of carb spray w/ the red straw attached and while truck is running w/ vac gauge attached too, spray spritzes at the base of the carb, where the manifolds meet the head, and below the manifolds where the end horns meet the exhaust section as well as where the egr goes in the intake and exits the exhaust. I’d have to look back to see but if your smoged but the last few spots may require some interesting physical contortions, looking back I see it is in a redneck way. If the rpms rise then you’ve found a leak.

 

[dannyvp]

Your not getting very good vacuum then, if I’m way off I imagine someone will correct me. 14 seems fairly low and since your not at elevation I would be concerned that your loosing air somewhere. Often hoses are stiff and brittle which means you might have a crack in one or old gaskets on the manifold or the egr. You can take a bottle of carb spray w/ the red straw attached and while truck is running w/ vac gauge attached too, spray spritzes at the base of the carb, where the manifolds meet the head, and below the manifolds where the end horns meet the exhaust section as well as where the egr goes in the intake and exits the exhaust. I’d have to look back to see but if your smoged but the last few spots may require some interesting physical contortions, looking back I see it is in a redneck way. If the rpms rise then you’ve found a leak.

When I had the breatheron I sprayed cleaner everywhere and found no leaks.

All gaskets are new.

I am desmogged, I started going though that last night and I’m missing lots of items on the desmogg routing check list.

 

[dannyvp]

Agreed, yes, and did you see the timing marks on the flywheel? The reason for painting the timing marks white is that from the factory they are silver (the bb is just set into the flywheel and the tdc line is just a chiseled vertical mark) and very hard to see. The white out makes the marks “glow” from the shine of the light.

Dang, I don’t know if I have the help to do that this weekend.
That’s me on the wrench, and someone on the sq hole looking for the mark.