295/70/18 is a tire size that you should consider*

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I’m looking to get the largest tire that will stuff appropriately while not being too far outside of oem weight if possible.

I had not considered 315 70 r17…it would be 34.4x10.6 and, with k02’s and 25 offset method 316’s add up to 86 lbs, which would technically, I think, be oem weight.

Functionally that may be the Goldilocks. I’ll have to look into it some more to see what might need to be done to make them fit, stuff, etc.

If anyone has advice on that, let me know. Thanks

There's an inordinate obsession on this board with wheel/tire weight. It may not deliver the value you perceive, and maybe an artificial constraint to a better wheel and tire package. On a sportscar, yes. I'm a stickler for weight, but on a 4x4, it's one area I'm willing to take-on more. There's benefits to wheel strength and durability. On the tire, more rubber, tread, and potential capability. It may be good to stay away from the heaviest, but just saying it's not worthwhile to shoot for the lightest.

In regards to 25 vs 35 offset. You'll find most LCs tend to use 25. That's because they run relatively narrower tires (11-11.5) than the LX that's able to run wider 12.5 tires. With the wider tires, +30 to +35 offset is necessary to ensure clearance against the fender front and rear.

If going to a larger overall tire diameter, say 33"+, IMO there's no need for a 17" wheel. With larger tire diameters, there's plenty of sidewall with 18s. 17s is diminishing returns and ultimately will tradeoff stability and cornering.
 
Sorry, you’re right. I was listing tread width not tire width.

Does a 34.4 (315 70 r17) fit in the spare location or is this 295 70 r18 (from the thread), the largest that can be managed to fit there inflated?
 
Caution: unsolicited internet opinion)
This is an 18" tire thread so take this for what it's worth (not much). If you are buying new wheels, going with 17" makes a lot of sense. Most fit over the brakes, the tires are cheaper, the wheels will most likely be cheaper. So unless you are after that slightly lower profile tire, the only reason i'd go with an 18" wheel is if I was sticking with a Toyota takeoff (with a 1" spacer) that i was getting either on the cheap or getting a high end forged BBS wheel. There isn't a perfectly equivalent 17" to the 295/70R18 but the 285/75R17 is slightly smaller and the 315/70R17 is slightly bigger. There are some 35x11.5R17s out there, that would be closer to the 295/70R18.

Technically correct but only if you already have the 17" wheels. If you are switching sizes and buying wheels, it's significantly more expensive. Your second set would indeed be cheaper.

1656521743896.png
 
There's an inordinate obsession on this board with wheel/tire weight. It may not deliver the value you perceive, and maybe an artificial constraint to a better wheel and tire package. On a sportscar, yes. I'm a stickler for weight, but on a 4x4, it's one area I'm willing to take-on more. There's benefits to wheel strength and durability. On the tire, more rubber, tread, and potential capability. It may be good to stay away from the heaviest, but just saying it's not worthwhile to shoot for the lightest.

In regards to 25 vs 35 offset. You'll find most LCs tend to use 25. That's because they run relatively narrower tires (11-11.5) than the LX that's able to run wider 12.5 tires. With the wider tires, +30 to +35 offset is necessary to ensure clearance against the fender front and rear.

If going to a larger overall tire diameter, say 33"+, IMO there's no need for a 17" wheel. With larger tire diameters, there's plenty of sidewall with 18s. 17s is diminishing returns and ultimately will tradeoff stability and cornering.
So a 295 70 r18 with a 25 offset is a no go on lx570?

I know 35 is preferred but there’s a set of methods that are relatively lightweight (29 lbs) in 18” but they have a 25 offset. Wondering whether they would be an ideal candidate should one decide to go with the 295 70 r18 setup.
 
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So a 295 70 r18 with a 25 offset is a no go on lx570?

I know 35 is preferred but there’s a set of methods that are relatively lightweight (29 lbs) in 18” but they have a 25 offset. Wondering whether they would be an ideal candidate should one decide to go with the 295 70 r18 setup.
Should be fine.
 
Technically correct but only if you already have the 17" wheels. If you are switching sizes and buying wheels, it's significantly more expensive. Your second set would indeed be cheaper.

View attachment 3045907
In this case the response is to someone who has 20" wheels and is going to be buying new wheels, so as you've shown, going 17" is cost advantageous. Also, why i caveated my statement, the only reason to go to 18" is if you are getting Tundra/LC takeoffs on the cheap, or if you want the quality of the forged BBS wheel.

Adding insult to injury, 18” wheels are generally more expensive in a like for like scenario.

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Ultimately it comes down to what you like, just no reason to rule out 17” wheels. I think the aftermarket options in 17” trump the 18”, but that’s my personal opinion. That plus $100/wheel savings between tire and wheel purely because of market availability and nothing to do with functionality.

But if I was looking to do a set of wheels in OEM quality, I’d definitely be doing 18” Tundra wheels and spacers.
 
In this case the response is to someone who has 20" wheels and is going to be buying new wheels, so as you've shown, going 17" is cost advantageous. Also, why i caveated my statement, the only reason to go to 18" is if you are getting Tundra/LC takeoffs on the cheap, or if you want the quality of the forged BBS wheel.

Adding insult to injury, 18” wheels are generally more expensive in a like for like scenario.

View attachment 3045991

Ultimately it comes down to what you like, just no reason to rule out 17” wheels. I think the aftermarket options in 17” trump the 18”, but that’s my personal opinion. That plus $100/wheel savings between tire and wheel purely because of market availability and nothing to do with functionality.

But if I was looking to do a set of wheels in OEM quality, I’d definitely be doing 18” Tundra wheels and spacers.

Yea you’re right 🤙🏻 I’m a take off kinda guy.
 
In this case the response is to someone who has 20" wheels and is going to be buying new wheels, so as you've shown, going 17" is cost advantageous. Also, why i caveated my statement, the only reason to go to 18" is if you are getting Tundra/LC takeoffs on the cheap, or if you want the quality of the forged BBS wheel.

Adding insult to injury, 18” wheels are generally more expensive in a like for like scenario.

View attachment 3045991

Ultimately it comes down to what you like, just no reason to rule out 17” wheels. I think the aftermarket options in 17” trump the 18”, but that’s my personal opinion. That plus $100/wheel savings between tire and wheel purely because of market availability and nothing to do with functionality.

But if I was looking to do a set of wheels in OEM quality, I’d definitely be doing 18” Tundra wheels and spacers.
Aesthetically, the 18’s look excellent, almost an oem package with the 295 70 r18’s.

With 285 75 r17, it does not, to me, appear aesthetically right by comparison. Too much sidewall.

285 70 r17 looks great.

Might just be my eye and I know aesthetics aren’t everything.

Is anyone actually running a true 25 offset with the 295 70 r18’s in the forum to confirm size? It’s easy to find that offset, 35 isn’t as easy.
 
Personal preference should always win out!

Here's an active forum member who has/had your requested 295/70R18 on a +25. Seems like he's already changed them out for something with less offset, so i guess the +25 didn't bother him.

 
Finally got mine on, a little more pushing of liners to do: currently full lock under braking has minor liner scrubbing. Mr706 had the +35 offset so went with those.

View attachment 3096618
Any rubbing on the body mounts with the 35 offset?
 
No, the mud flap mount bracket ( lower towards the inside of the wheel well) did though. The side lugs are larger than some others so towards the larger size that can fit. Also front wheel wheel towards the inner side (mostly fixed now needs to be pushed a little more). Only rub is under front dive type load (harder brakes and hard turn).
 
This is the area where the most clearance issues existed on mine: mud flap removed, trimmed step cover (already mostly done during rock slider install) , slightly pushed back metal bracket that is towards the inside for mud flap (~ 1 inch back), heat gun the liner pushed back a couple inches. Body mount is a little over an inch away in the worst case that I can simulate (full lock and compressed)

Metal tech slider was a pain in the ass to install as an aside (shop did other side and it took them about 8 hrs for one which was way better than me for the other)

F904B570-7F2A-43EA-96BD-FD2805088B9B.jpeg
 
Finally got mine on, a little more pushing of liners to do: currently full lock under braking has minor liner scrubbing. Mr706 had the +35 offset so went with those.

View attachment 3096618
Any rubbing on the sway bar with the 35mm offset?

Any more pics?
 
Anyone besides Westcott design running 295/70r18 on the 200 with Toyota Heritage or similar wheels? If so, how do you get them to fit?

Any good wheels out there that have the proper offset for the 295’s without using spacers?
 
Anyone besides Westcott design running 295/70r18 on the 200 with Toyota Heritage or similar wheels? If so, how do you get them to fit?

Any good wheels out there that have the proper offset for the 295’s without using spacers?
There are a bunch of 25 offset and a couple 35’s that supposedly work.

Evo corse has a 30 offset…which I think, at this point, is a good choice.

Does anyone know the best way to buy evo corse wheels?
 
There are a bunch of 25 offset and a couple 35’s that supposedly work.

Evo corse has a 30 offset…which I think, at this point, is a good choice.

Does anyone know the best way to buy evo corse wheels?
I know Icon has some nice 18” 25mm, I just couldn’t remember if that was enough offset to not need spacers. My heritage wheels and 1.25” spacers aren’t cutting it for 295’s
 
There are a bunch of 25 offset and a couple 35’s that supposedly work.

Evo corse has a 30 offset…which I think, at this point, is a good choice.

Does anyone know the best way to buy evo corse wheels?
I thought Main Line Overland was the official distributor for US.
 
I know Icon has some nice 18” 25mm, I just couldn’t remember if that was enough offset to not need spacers. My heritage wheels and 1.25” spacers aren’t cutting it for 295’s
OEM + 1.25” is an effective offset of +28.25 (60-31.75). What is not cutting it? I know plenty of people run that size tire and that offset on LX. Are you hitting KDSS? You should probably look at relocating KDSS as option. The more you space out your wheel, the wider arc it swings on, so the more you have to clearance the fenders and fender wells.

Most of the ICON options are +25 or lower. There are a few Method wheels at +35. Evo Corse come in a few offsets between 0 and 45, and if you don’t mind spending the $$ and time, can be custom ordered in any offset I believe. There is also Braid Winrace wheels in custom sizes. Haven’t seen those in person and they are pricey, but they look sweet in the pictures I’ve seen.

Post in thread 'Stigr build'
Stigr build - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/stigr-build.1214229/post-13217767

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