22re removal, Any tips? (1 Viewer)

[IslandJ]

Decided Im gona pull the 22re out of 1985 to either take it somewhere to have it rebuilt or have at it myself.
I've watched a couple youtubes and started reading some thread from the past but was just curious if there were any mud tips you all might think worthy mentioning?

 

[pappy]

The 22RE is an easy engine to pull. How you decide to do it is up to you. Basics are remove hood. Drain all fluids. Remove radiator, disconnect all the cables and grounds. Unplug the ECU from the right kick panel and pull harness through firewall. Remove transmission and clutch. Don't forget to pull the starter. Clutch slave can dangle. Disconnect exhaust. Remove fan and clutch (more room to lift out).

Since your goal is a rebuild I would strip all the accessories and manifolds. You need to do that anyways. It's not necessary, but it does make it easier. AC doesn't need to be discharged, just moved out of the way. Bag and tag all the hardware. I guarantee you will not remember where all those nuts and bolts go a month from now. A hard lesson learned is don't write on the bag. Write it on a piece of paper and put that in the bag. I have a bunch of bags that the writing has rubbed off.

In the "while in there" category ... replace all consumables. Hoses, belts, hoses, and more hoses. Do it now while you can. Save yourself some grief and use the proper molded hoses, not generic. How old are your engine mounts? Ya, I know you can get them for $10 on RockAuto, but I would spend the big bucks at Toyota and get OEM. Use a discount dealer (Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Toyota Parts and Accessories Online - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/ or Toyota Parts Factory - #1 Source for Genuine OEM Toyota Scion Parts & Accessories | Camelback Toyota Parts - https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/ , or ?) Consider getting the radiator cleaned out, or replaced. No need to over heat your new engine.

Also, replace the water pump, and oil pump. How old is your clutch? Now would be the time to replace it. I would replace your clutch master, slave, and that rubber hose on the firewall. If your clutch cylinders are in good shape at least do that rubber hose while you can get to it. Have you ever replaced your fan clutch? You can get AISIN aftermarket for this stuff at Rockauto.com for cheap. Use ONLY Toyota seals (rear main and crank seal), and a Toyota head gasket. You will thank me later for that advice.

 

[pappy]

The engine harness should be a train wreck by now. Consider:

Replace all five of the fuel injector connectors. You can get them at DelCity.net for about $2 each. Fuel Injector Connector - https://www.delcity.net/store/Fuel-Injector-Connector/p_797788.h_797789

There are some splices in the engine harness that get corroded. Fix them now while you are waiting on the machine shop. They will be on the fuel injector branch of the harness. Peel back the tape and you will see them. Replacing the connectors will give you extra wire to work with.

Send your injectors in for rebuilding. I've had good luck with RC Engineering. RC Fuel Injection - https://www.rcfuelinjection.com/

 

[jgranthevagrant]

The bolts that hold the motor to the top of the bell housing are tricky to get at. Takes patience to get at them and get them turning. I do pretty much everything Pappy suggests when I'm in there. Because I'm in Canada, I really go after the engine bay for cleaning, rustproofing, and then painting. Good time to redo grounds as well. I have used RC engineering for injectors also. Very good results.

 

[IslandJ]

Thanks @pappy and @jgranthevagrant for the tips. I think part of my issue for the rebuild was the over heating that happened this last summer when the wife was driving it. Fortunately/unfortunately , in the last 12 months, I already had the stock radiator rebuilt, fuel injectors rebuilt by RC engineering, OEM belts and coolant hoses and a few vacuum hoses but yeah Ill replace any other vacuum hoses then. No idea when the clutch was done if ever but yeah I'll replace that while i'm there. Thanks for the tip on the fuel injector connectors, they are showing their age. I have not replaced the fan clutch so I'll do that as well. I learned my lesson on the motor mounts when I replaced them on my fj60, ugh. Never again will i skimp on those types of parts.

I really appreciate the direction guys.

 

[pappy]

Sleeping on this. One of the heater pipes bolts up under the intake manifold. There is an o-ring that is impossible to replace with the engine in the bay. Anyway, that heater tube needs to be installed BEFORE the engine goes back in. Do the o-ring at the same time. 96711-24017, $4.88 list. It's a common hidden leak point.

 

[KLF]

I helped a guy once pull an engine for a complete rebuild, he was really good at it, and gave me some tips.

He always pulls the entire thing, wires, manifolds, etc. So much easier to work on those with the engine out and on the stand. This is how Toyota installs it at the factory, right? Unhook the engine harness from the ECU under the glove box, pull the connector through the firewall, coil it up and zip tie it to the intake. Disconnect the harness to the dizzie and the main coil wire. Wiring is done.

If you're gonna replace the hoses anyway, don't bother unhooking them, just cut them. Then when the engine is out, a quick slice across where the hose connects to the fitting and the remaining pieces come right off and into the trash.

Stop at the hardware store and pick up an expandable plug, I think you want something around 1-1/4". You will never get all the coolant out of the engine and it sucks when it starts drooling out that bottom radiator hose connection as you're hoisting the engine over the front core support. Makes a big stinky slippery mess to clean up. Pop the plug into that connection prior to the final lift, then take it back out once the engine is on the stand and you can catch it all.

 

[jgranthevagrant]

Yes, I forgot about the little O-ring under the intake. I replaced it once when it was on the engine. Very slow and challenging, and the PO had used a plumbing washer. Much easier to do with the engine out. There are a couple of disassembly tips when you start rebuilding as well. Allen head bolt under the intake. Bolt through head into timing cover is usually hidden by oil.

 

[toyotaboy80]

Solid tech info here. Although it'll make the book time of an engine re n re quadruple, I'm into it

 

[snobdds]

Sleeping on this. One of the heater pipes bolts up under the intake manifold. There is an o-ring that is impossible to replace with the engine in the bay. Anyway, that heater tube needs to be installed BEFORE the engine goes back in. Do the o-ring at the same time. 96711-24017, $4.88 list. It's a common hidden leak point.

View attachment 2549196

I put in a new engine and did not do this. Mine started to leak. I hate leaks.

I thought, how hard could it be. I have done every repair to a 22re. This one kicked my ass. I won't even get into how I had to fix it.

This can not be emphasized enough...do this while the engine is out.

 

[pappy]

I put in a new engine and did not do this. Mine started to leak. I hate leaks.

I thought, how hard could it be. I have done every repair to a 22re. This one kicked my ass. I won't even get into how I had to fix it.

This can not be emphasized enough...do this while the engine is out.

So, it wasn't just me?

 

[snobdds]

Part of the destruction. I tried to just replace the oring. Doing it blind, did not line the holes up correctly.

 

[CreeperSleeper]

You guys are taking this way too seriously...

 

[toyotaboy80]

Hahahah

 

[IslandJ]

The 22RE is an easy engine to pull. How you decide to do it is up to you. Basics are remove hood. Drain all fluids. Remove radiator, disconnect all the cables and grounds. Unplug the ECU from the right kick panel and pull harness through firewall. Remove transmission and clutch. Don't forget to pull the starter. Clutch slave can dangle. Disconnect exhaust. Remove fan and clutch (more room to lift out).

Since your goal is a rebuild I would strip all the accessories and manifolds. You need to do that anyways. It's not necessary, but it does make it easier. AC doesn't need to be discharged, just moved out of the way. Bag and tag all the hardware. I guarantee you will not remember where all those nuts and bolts go a month from now. A hard lesson learned is don't write on the bag. Write it on a piece of paper and put that in the bag. I have a bunch of bags that the writing has rubbed off.

In the "while in there" category ... replace all consumables. Hoses, belts, hoses, and more hoses. Do it now while you can. Save yourself some grief and use the proper molded hoses, not generic. How old are your engine mounts? Ya, I know you can get them for $10 on RockAuto, but I would spend the big bucks at Toyota and get OEM. Use a discount dealer (Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Toyota Parts and Accessories Online - https://www.toyotapartsdeal.com/ or Toyota Parts Factory - #1 Source for Genuine OEM Toyota Scion Parts & Accessories | Camelback Toyota Parts - https://parts.camelbacktoyota.com/ , or ?) Consider getting the radiator cleaned out, or replaced. No need to over heat your new engine.

Also, replace the water pump, and oil pump. How old is your clutch? Now would be the time to replace it. I would replace your clutch master, slave, and that rubber hose on the firewall. If your clutch cylinders are in good shape at least do that rubber hose while you can get to it. Have you ever replaced your fan clutch? You can get AISIN aftermarket for this stuff at Rockauto.com for cheap. Use ONLY Toyota seals (rear main and crank seal), and a Toyota head gasket. You will thank me later for that advice.

Hey @pappy Im in the midsts of ordering parts and wondering if you have a part number for the toyota cranks seal?
I've found just about everything else.

 

[pappy]

Hey @pappy Im in the midsts of ordering parts and wondering if you have a part number for the toyota cranks seal?
I've found just about everything else.

Front: 90311-45014​

Rear: 90311-80010​

 

[IslandJ]

Front: 90311-45014​

Rear: 90311-80010​

Much appreciated.

 

[anndel]

Sleeping on this. One of the heater pipes bolts up under the intake manifold. There is an o-ring that is impossible to replace with the engine in the bay. Anyway, that heater tube needs to be installed BEFORE the engine goes back in. Do the o-ring at the same time. 96711-24017, $4.88 list. It's a common hidden leak point.

View attachment 2549196

It's a PITA when I did our 93 Yota. Lot's of swearing helps